I'm thinking of finishing a 6' 8" mag bass blank (URRS ERN = 20) into a somewhat "tough/powerful" rod and am considering an Alps AT alum seat. Size 16 or 17. The person I'm building for doesn't have particularly small or large hands. Last spin rod built for him has size 17 spin seat and he likes it ok. I am of the opinion that spin seats can go larger than casting seats which might lead to the size 16. Anyone care to provide your thoughts?

Also, thinking of Alps MXN double foot guides + size 6 single foot fly guides. Too powerful for single foot flies?

None of my builds so far have been this powerful, and I've never used a size 17 trigger seat, so am agonizing.

Not sure if this is casting or spinning from what you say. I'll assume spinning.

For spinning rods I buy a seat to fit my hands. That is more like a 20 something but I do like the aero seats. I have used single foot fly rod guides on offshore saltwater spinning rods so I can't see why they can't handle bass. I almost always use a graphite seat, casting/trolling/spinning, in 30# class and under.

If I was building a heavy duty casting rod with guides on top I might consider a double foot guide but fuji is offering rugged single foots....think they call them "belly guides"??

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

The Areo seats fit the hand very well A 16 should fit nicely

Bill - willierods.com

Mike,

There's not a huge difference between the 16 and 17 seats. Either one should be fine.

Go with single foot fly guides, they won't be a problem. I use them on musky rods all the time and to date, I've had zero failures. Do Forhan locking wraps followed by 2-3 blocking wraps!

jeremy

AT = aluminun trigger = casting

To clarify, I am planning on a casting rod, guides on top ( I just dislike the look of spirals regardless of how they work or don't work ) double foot guides for probably the first three (I really like the looks of the Alps MXN in the titanium color, AT seat in same color) , more double foots if it looks like it needs more. The action is a mag bass action, fast action. While I'm sure a graphite seat will work fine, I just want to do an aluminum.

thanks for the comments.

I nearly always (never say never) use a size 17. I've recently built my grandson a spinning outfit with a size 16 and found that my test reel (size 1000) barely fit, I won't being using a 16 anymore unless I have the reel first to check for fit. I've used the Batson AT several times and they are nice. I build all my northern trolling rods with size 6 runners which have done a good job, never had a problem with them.

Thanks, Chester. I will use a size 16 seat on a SPINNING ROD only when it's a very light rod and I'm trying for min weight. The ergonomics of a 17 SPINNING SEAT are in my opinion much better for me.

However, I think that casting is a different situation based on the movements involved casting. I made two CASTING rods a few years ago with grip diameter made according to the ergonomics recommendations from the magazine article on ergonomics and was very disappointed in the stability of the rods in the hand when casting. I ended up turning them down to a smaller diameter and found them much better. So I have concluded that the ergonomics-based optimum diameter is different for each of the two types of rods.

Based on experiences mentioned above I will not be overtaxing the size 6 single foot fly guides.

I should also mention on the casting rod ergonomics issue that I find the shape that tapers quite a bit to the rear really is good for stability and comfort. A pure cylinder is nowhere close. Most St. Croix casting rods and many others have this shape, although I usually like mine a half inch or so longer than theirs.

Michael,

What application do you have in mind for this build? A typical mag bass blank can be built with the smallest lightest micro guides on the market without worry. I regularly use one Alps LXN as the butt guide on my builds with the rest single foot micros. Of course, your line type/size, connections and environmental conditions may dictate the use of larger guides. If you use/abuse of the rod dictates the heavier frames, then by all means use them. I just don't want you to approach the build thinking that they are necessary due to the power of the rod.

In regard to reel seat size, it's a very personal choice. My hands are fairly small and my preferred casting seats are 16mm expose blank designs. If the OD of the blank requires me to move to a 17mm seat, it's a full seat. I just don't find the exposed blank models in that size as comfortable. My fingers just land on the seat in the wrong places. In regard to the Al seats, they are certainly beautiful to look at. The Alps versions I've handled in person are first class seats to say the least.

As you've found the grip style is very different for casting vs. spinning rods, and different grip shapes work better for each one. Do you have a favorite rear grip that you would like to duplicate? Are you looking for a full length grip that is turned down further in the middle to give the ergonomics of a split grip with the aesthetics of a full grip? You have some options here, but I doubt you'll find too many full grips with flares at both ends.

Joe

Joe, I've built only one mag bass action rod before, and it has ended up being my rod for flat-line trolling for king salmon. It appears to have the right characteristics to set the hook itself on hits when flat line trolling deep Thunderstick Jr's. I won this blank and thought it would be nice to use it for a "heavy duty" rod mostly for casting swim baits (not the super heavy ones), casting for pike, and possibly trolling. It's mostly an experiment in a heavier duty area of rod buildidng than I am used to dealing with. But I really have no solid expectations other than to do justice to a nice mag bass blank. I most likely will give it to my bass fishing zealot son.

Re your last question, I plan to do a split grip, maybe carbon fiber, and as I mentioned, I prefer a "rounded" taper back from the seat similare to many
St. Croix casting rods, but probably 1\2 - 3/4 longer than St Croix. From previous comments and thinking more about it, I expect I'll use a size 16 seat. The aluminum is not so much for function as it is for bling and just the experience of building with one for the first time. I'm sure a graphite seat will do the job.

Thanks for your advice on the LXN + single foot micros. That makes me more confident that I don't need to be as concerned over guide strength as I was.

Your experience based comments are exactly what I was hoping to receive.