I just finished a rod and noticed I must have bumped the tip or something because it is no longer straight. Can I heat the tip in some boiling water and be able to move it if I used the 5 min rod bond? Or any other way to get that tip moved? This is a bass casting rod with a 4.5 fuji FCAT tip.

Thanks,

-Mike

My mistake, I used threadmaster 5 or 10 min epoxy. Its some 3-4 year old stuff ive had.

-Mike

Mike I use Devcon 5 min epoxy on my tips all the time. Just put your rod on turning stands or your wrapping rack. Get a lighter and a small pair of needle nose pliers. Heat the tip top as you turn the rod (short time frame and don't hold the heat in one place, focus it on the tube) then drop your lighter hold the rod with one hand and pull the tip with the pliers. I use needle nose and put one jaw on the top and the other between the brace legs of the tip top. I hope that makes sense. You are applying pressure sideways and not clamping onto the guide. Once the tip top comes off use a small drill bit or straight paper clip to remove the epoxy, wipe the guide off and reuse it after it cools off.
Keep in mind the heating process is fairly quick. You can always add additional heat so try it in steps.
The other option is to split the tube of the tip top and remove it that way,

You are going to get allot of responses on this one. This is what has worked for me for 17 years.

Thanks Gabe. Wasn't sure if heat worked on that type of epoxy. Do you think I could just heat it and straighten the guide and then allow the epoxy to re-set? Or will it not re-set or set to fast to make an adjustment?

Thanks,

Mike,
If you heat epoxy enough to soften it, it is really no longer a reliable glue joint.

If you want to redo the tip, use the rubber band method to remove the tip. Get a couple of paper clips. Get a size 64 rubber band. Put a clip on each end of the band. Use one clip to hook the band to the tip of the rod.
Then, while holding the other clip with a stretched out rubber band, use localized heat to heat the tip. Just as soon as the epoxy has softened enough, it will come flying off the tip. Be sure not to be in the line of the tip to avoid injury from the hot tip.

Then, just with a bit of heat and a razor blade, scrape any remaining glue off of the tip. Use an appropriate sized drill bit to clean out any glue from inside the tip.

Then, either use epoxy again, or hot melt glue to reattach the tip and double check to insure that it is aligned.

The rubber band method insures that you are getting the tip off of the rods tip with the least amount of heat necessary.

Be safe

Thanks so much Roger. ill give that a shot tonight.

Mike,

Roger is correct. Gabe's methods are good too; I won't take anything away from him, but I just dealt with this problem about three weeks ago. See my thread from 4/14/2014 on tip top adhesives. Personally, I've changed my methods from all the help I've received on this forum and am going to use hot melt adhesive only. Simpler, easier, less trouble when you have a problem.

Dave

Epoxy won't "re-set" after heating.

.........

See we can all learn from this site. Roger's method applies only the required amount of heat and sounds like an improvement. it may add a few dings in the wall LOL. Thanks Roger. Also for my two cents, I have used the hot glue method and had rods come back. A rod lying on the deck of a bass boat can get pretty hot. That combined with a beefy hook set and you have an offset tip.

The paper clip and Heavy rubber band works well Get it off I use a Candle For heat get a drill bit that fits the tube ( if you will reuse ) and scrap all you can out Clean the tip of the blank with a razor blade Just scrap the old glue off -- Reglue
make sure you put a piece of tape or some how mark the Top of the blank so you get the top on Correctly

Bill - willierods.com

Well, I just tried the heat/rubberband method. The tip didn't come off but I was able to move it straight. Sounds like that's not gonna be a reliable bond anymore. I'm afraid to heat the tip past what I've already done because I don't want to ruin the blank? Should I just keep heating until it comes off? It seemed to be putting a serious bend directly in the 1/2" section of the blank where the tip sits. I was rotating the blank and using the lighter on and off and not using it constantly or only in one area. Maybe I didn't have enough tension on the rubberband? Had it stretched about 8"

If you apply just a little too much heat you can ruin the blank. I know because I have done it. I'm not sure what to do when the tiptop is glued with epoxy; I never use epoxy. Tom Kirkman uses hot melt and winds the decorative winding at the tip over the tiptop a ways then epoxies it to provide assurance it won't move under hot conditions. I've started that also. We don't get the problems with hot melt in MI, at least I never have.

The good news is if you overheat the blank you'll only lose about 1/2 inch and may not even notice it.

As Michael pointed out, since you are fearful of overheating the blank, it is likely that the best thing you can do is to cut the blank just as close as you can to the tip.
Better to have the tip 3/8th of an inch too short, rather than having the top several inches compromised because of excess heat.
As Michael pointed out, I have also ruined blanks by using excess heat. In my case it didn't matter since I was just heating the blank to remove guides for reuse. But I certainly agree that too much heat is a bad thing for any rod blank.

Good luck

I've used Rogers method for years & never had a problem .I always have the rubber band stretched a tight as it will go & just wave a cigarette lighter underneath the blank.I don't leave the flame in the one place for any length of time but keep it moving until the guide flies off .The blank is always just warm to the touch as it appears there's not too much conduction of heat through the 5 min Rod Bond that I always use.

.

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

I have a cup hook installed into the side of my bench with a rubber band on it and a large snap swivel. I bend the hook so its hard for the band to come off and point the opening down also. I snap the swivel ( I've had paper clips straighten out on me) onto the tip top and apply as much tension as I can while using a cigarette lighter to heat the tip as I rotate the rod. If its gonna come off its coming off this way with the least amount of heat applied. Also always wear eye protection.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Barry, I'll bet a little wave of the lighter won't get the tip off if it has been epoxied on. That works fine with hot melts, but not epoxy. I think the experience of Mike Ortega is typical when epoxy has been used.

I think this whole string represents an opportunity for an adhesive company to come up with something that will take the in-service heat of the south yet will come off without risking the blank.

Here are some numbers to think about: upper limit to hot melt effectiveness appears to be about 170degrees F. Highest temps inside a closed car in Phx are about 140-/150.
Melting point of polyethylene is about 220. I believe most rod building hot melts are not capable of 170, anyone know?

Key question : What temperature can a typical graphite blank take for a short period without damage? If that temp is above about 170 then someone should be able to market a high grade hot melt that would allow the "rubber band" method to work and for the rod to endure the hottest in-service temps it's likely to encounter.

"The key is to have a hot melt that is in the window between about 150 and the temp at which the blank gets damaged?

Food for thought.

G'Day Michael it,s not a little wave I apply the heat with the rod rotating at a low speed 6-8 rpm until the tip separates from the blank .Once it has separated I can touch the blank & not finish up with burnt fingers .

I think the epoxy acts as an insulator & as the tip is under tension as soon as the epoxy has loosened it''s grip off comes the tip.All I can say is that I have been using this method for a number of years & never had a problem. It works for me .I have had tips come loose a few years ago when I used hot melt glue & the rod was laying in the bottom of the boat during our summer on a couple of occasions & that's what prompted me to use the quick set epoxy.

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

It may take two or three heatings to have it come loose Just don't fry it

Bill - willierods.com

All this use of subjective terms ( " wave," "fry," "little too much") could be avoided it we had a hot melt that would securely attach a tiptop up to 170 degrees as long as 170 is below the damage temp for blanks. (I expect it is well below the blank damaging temp) Come on hot melt makers, here is a business opportunity. Come rod blank makers, what is the minimum temp that will damage a blank if it is subjected to the temp for only as long as it takes for the hot melt to give using the rubber band method. The process then would be reliable putting it on, reliable in service, and reliable coming off.