This is the first time I have used the temp glue to hold the guides down before I wrap them. I have them all on but a couple need aligned, how do I move them? Do I just pull them off and move them or is there a safe way to heat them and move them that way. I don't need to move them very much.

wrap them first, then move to align as needed. The guide foot glue is only a temporary weak adhesive so you can easily move the guides after they are wrapped.

Terry

Great thanks!

I have no idea why anyone would wish to use that stuff. What really stabilizes a guide - no matter how well it sits on blank - is thread finish migrating under the foot. with the glue there it cannot do this. I use elastic thread from craft stores to hold my guides in place while wrapping.
Herb

Well, I find it to be very convenient and it fits my process well. If you use too much and it globs on, then there might be some issue with finish not flowing into the areas that don't contact the blank. A thin application adheres where the guide contacts the blank until you wrap it on. I've found no issues with lack of stability in any of my builds.

It's not meant to provide any guide stabilization, just holds on to the blank while you wrap. The best guides have a concave foot (either produced that way or filed by the builder) so you get full foot contact with the blank.

I'm glad you like to use the elastic thread. Seems like a decent method as well.

Terry

I also use the guide glue stick, and find it does exactly what is meant to do....hold the guide in place for wrapping. By the way, it is NOT epoxy under the guide foot that holds them to the blank!

It is the combination of thread and epoxy. Epoxy soaking into thread wraps has very little if any chance of getting under the guide foot.

I'd have to agree with Phil based on replacing old guides. Once the finish and thread is removed there seems to be no real bond between the guide and the blank. One would question once CP is used the degree to which the epoxy finish reaches the guide foot. Then we have to consider how things were before we used epoxy. Rods built back in the 50's/60's with varnish stood the test of time. Clearly the varnish didn't have the strength to act as a glue to hold the guide to the blank (without the thread).

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

How are the guides held in place -- Before The Static Testing is done ????

or is a Chart used And be done with it Some type of rubber bands ya can move the guides And wrap them on

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2014 10:22PM by bill boettcher.

I static test with nylon ties... the "micros nylon ties" from Swampland. They hold even micro guides on the blank and give the added advantage of being able to slide the guide on the blank a couple of inches forward or backward without having to retie elastic or tear tape off and retape for a 1-inch move...which drives me nuts! At the bench I mark the location, clip off the nylon tie and put the guide right back on with foot glue for wrapping. The key to the foot glue is to use the right amount. When you do there is no glue squishing out the side of the foot so the tunnel remains open when wrapped for finish penetration.

Like Terry says, glue, wrap and then align. I have noticed that the foot glue holds the guide for a good start up the foot but it is not an "adhesive" in the sense that it helps hold the guide. In fact, the guide will pop cleanly off the blank with very little effort if you need to relocate it (or if you bump it :-)). Because it pops loose so easily I have learned that I can fully wrap the guide and then with a very gentle "flick" of a fingernail the glue pops loose and I can do the final, post wrap alignment as if there was no glue on the foot at all. Most of the time I use the glue only on small guides where tape or ties take up too much of the foot length.