How do I fix the epoxy that's lumpy and a bit footballish after its hardened? This is my first build.

Thanks guys

I know why that happened, it's not crazy bad but I was wondering if I could sand the epoxy a bit to level it then thin coat it.

Carefully slice it off with a double-edge razor blade or Exacto knife, trim the edges of the sliced off area close to round, and recoat with a thin layer of epoxy. If you did a good job rounding the old finish with the bland the topcoat will level out nice. It is better to slice it off than sand it down. you'll end up with better results vs. sanding. If done correctly, you'll never know it was repaired.

The reason I prefer a double edge razor vs a single edge is because the double edge is a lot sharper and it can also be bent to mimic the roundness of the blank when you work it to round the edges of the old finish. With a stiff blade, you have to make a lot of small light shaving cuts to smooth out the roundness of the trimmed down area.

Both will work, it's just easier with a flexible blade than a stiff one.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/17/2014 01:32PM by John E Powell.

Thanks! Why is sanding bad?

If the rod is for your own use just keep it the way it is. It won't hurt a thing. Then practice your finishing technique on test wraps until you get it perfect.

Randolph, my perfectionism won't let me keep it that way :) I want to learn how to fix mistakes, not just be able to do everything perfect the first time.

Thanks j

You can sand just be very careful that you don't dig into the threads, use 4-600 grit. Footballs usually occur in my experience by applying to much finish on at one time, so put on a little less and this should help with your technique.

Scott Parsons
919-900-8998
[www.roddancer.com]
[www.fishhawkthreads.com]

Scott, thanks a bunch. When you say 4-600 grit is that just normal paper or something special?


Thanks heaps, j

Sanding is slower, especially if you have a lot to remove. It is much more time efficient to carefully slice away finish and then work the edges of the cuts with a curved blade. If you prefer, save the sandpaper till the end and use it once you have the bulk of the finish sliced away. But I think if you try both, you'll find it's a lot quicker using a careful hand with the curved double-edge razor blade.

You have to judge your skill set on this. Some people can't handle a double-edge razor without slicing themselves along with the finish. If you fear you fall into that group, then an Exacto knife if probably a better tool for you to use.

Thanks John!

I have never had a problem sanding. I don't think you even need to worry about too rough of a grit. You just need to not get into the threads.

All that said I find I have much better control using a file. Then wet sand with a fine grit wet/dry sandpaper....not because it is needed but because it gets rid of all the flakes of old epoxy.....and that is important.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

If when you put your finish on and you are not sure if you put too much or not you can after all are coated Stop the turner and with the guides UP you don;t want the finish to run onto the rings let the finish sag and with your brush take the drip off each guide Then take the rod and turn it to make sure the drip will flow into the rest of the finish This should take enough off so they are level

Bill - willierods.com