I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

Pages: 12Next
Current Page: 1 of 2
Two questions
Posted by: David Barrett (---.dhcp.mdsn.wi.charter.com)
Date: March 11, 2014 09:21PM

Well I searched the board and did not find the topic in question. I must be the only guy that expoxied the real seat ( Alps) and forgot to center it. Is there a way I can get it off and save the rod and seat? I looked at YouTube and did not find the answer I also need to remove the cork handle. I tried my electric hot gun to warm up the seat but nada.

2nd question. Can you use a spray paint like Rust-Oleum to paint a graphite blank? Thinking about a gloss white base and marble the rod with a couple different colors Sorry Tom I am waiting for your book to arrive. I will read it before I ask more questions, but this is a disturbing error

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: March 11, 2014 09:33PM

Not sure what you mean by "did not center it." What did you not center it on?

............

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: David Barrett (---.dhcp.mdsn.wi.charter.com)
Date: March 11, 2014 09:42PM

Sorry Tom, The seat and the cork handle do not line up correctly. The seat looks to be off center of the end of the cork handle

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: March 11, 2014 10:14PM

Is the handle inlet for a seat hood? Otherwise, the handle is concentric and it's orientation doesn't matter.

I'm sure I'm still missing something here. Did the seat and handle both fit fairly snugly to the rod blank? Or did one of the other have a sloppy fit?

..............

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: Herb Ladenheim (---.lightspeed.wepbfl.sbcglobal.net)
Date: March 11, 2014 10:25PM

Tom,
Maybe the grip is a pistol grip??Herb

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: David Barrett (---.dhcp.mdsn.wi.charter.com)
Date: March 11, 2014 10:34PM

sorry guys. I feel really stupid.

Where the seat ends and the cork foregrip starts they do not line up If you look from the back (butt end) to the tip of the rod you see the seat is skewed to the right . The foregrip and seat are flush but off center of each other

Both the cork and handle need to be removed, if at all possible

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: David Barrett (---.dhcp.mdsn.wi.charter.com)
Date: March 11, 2014 10:35PM

very sloppy fit :)

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: March 11, 2014 11:20PM

David,
If it is really of concern to you, just take a dremel tool with an abrasive wheel on the end and run it up full length on each side of the rear grip and the reel seat.

Insert a secrew driver into the slot, twist it and the reel seat and the grip will pop apart.

Pitch both of them in the trash. Clean the existing glue off of the blank and start over with a well fitting butt grip and reel seat.
If necessary, use an arbor on the inside of the grip and reel seat to insure that both are correctly centered on the blank.

Just chalk it up to an education.

I am sure that all of us that have been in the business for a while have made more than one mistake when we were all learning.

By the way, when you are using the dremel tool with the abrasive wheel, do NOT let the wheel touch the blank. You want to get close to the blank, but don't touch it iwth the wheel.

Be safe

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: March 11, 2014 11:23PM

By the way, if the butt grip is tight to the reel seat, I would likely just leave the rod alone, if the butt grip and reel seat are well glued in place.

A slight twist in the reel seat is really not going to have any effect on the rod. You will be learning more things on this rod, so unless it is really bad, just finish building it and catch a lot of fish with the rod.

Be safe

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: mike thacker (---.sub-75-230-164.myvzw.com)
Date: March 11, 2014 11:35PM

@#$%&. I would strip it and start over, making sure to get a good fit on things. For me, if I left it askew, it would always bother me. Best to start over before doing all the guides (hopefully you haven't). Good Luck. As for the second question...I don't know.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: Barry Chapman (---.41.70.115.static.exetel.com.au)
Date: March 12, 2014 03:12AM

G'Day Dave I managed to remove a couple of reel seats using hot water from the tap running into a bucket for around 10 mins & then wrapped a cloth around the seat & used a set of multi grips & just kept working back & forth & eventually the epoxy gave way .Once it starts to move make sure you keep the hot water up .From memory it took about 20 mins all up .Sorry can't answer to your 2nd question as I never used anything other than auto paint with plasticiser .

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: Fred Yarmolowicz (---.hsd1.nj.comcast.net)
Date: March 12, 2014 06:39AM

I can see why you want to save the seat. The Alps come with a steep price tag. The Hot water may do the trick early in the life of the set up epoxy. In the future dry fit everything and shim so there is no slop. The epoxy is intended to be an adhesive not a filler (although it works good as one) . I have used Rustoleum Epoxy pair with great success but you need to let is set up for two weeks or so. Even better is the Duplicolor auto paints found at auto parts stores. Many cool colors and they go on thin and are flexible .

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: Russell Brunt (165.214.14.---)
Date: March 12, 2014 08:19AM

If I am understanding this correctly....and I'm not sure I do....there is another option.

If it isn't too far off.....and you can live with the foregrip being a tad smaller.....you could sand the foregrip down to make it concentric with the reel seat. It would help if you had a lathe of some sort.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: bill boettcher (---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: March 12, 2014 09:28AM

If you don't have a lath Mask off the seat so not to scratch it hand sand as best you can and see if you can live with it

Or
Cut off

Always DRY fit before gluing in place

Bill - willierods.com

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: David Barrett (---.dhcp.mdsn.wi.charter.com)
Date: March 12, 2014 10:37AM

Yes, I learned a valuable lesson here. The Alps seat is made of chrome. Again, I appreciate all you guys helping out a real rookie here.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: bill boettcher (---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: March 12, 2014 12:40PM

I think you said it was a foregrip Reread - butt handle

be a darn shame to mess up that seat

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/12/2014 01:14PM by bill boettcher.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: Roger Templon (---.aoo.pa.atlanticbb.net)
Date: March 12, 2014 05:17PM

david

i would also file and sand the cork to make the grips center better on the seat.

rog

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: Bob Kraft (---.hsd1.il.comcast.net)
Date: March 12, 2014 08:00PM

If it's an inexpensive blank, just trash the whole thing. Too much work to try to disassemble the whole thing.(imo) Bring your blank to your favorite auto body shop and have them spray it and clear coat it when he's painting a car.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: bill boettcher (---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: March 12, 2014 08:11PM

Try a search here on Painting blanks and you will get a lot of info

Bill - willierods.com

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Two questions
Posted by: John E Powell (168.169.226.---)
Date: March 13, 2014 04:58PM

A few choices:

Lots of labor to save blank and seat, lose grip(s) - heat applied to seat method

Trash the blank and grips, save seat - band saw the blank method

Trash the seat and grip(s) - cutting wheel to seat method

Live with it and keep it

Find a "Bubba" somewhere and make an anonymous gift of it...

Options: ReplyQuote
Pages: 12Next
Current Page: 1 of 2


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster