Am in the process of building my first rod, and of course have a couple of questions. Just a couple at this point...more to follow I'm sure.

Most of my fishing is "flats" fishing for sea trout, snook and reds. As I wanted a 8 FT rod, selected the Batson XP963 as my blank. I intend on using the American Tackle microwave guides and in all probability will fit the rod with a 3000 series reel.
In order to keep down weight, and also maximize "sensativity" have decied to use a "split grip" reel seat with my two choices at this point being, either a Fuji KSKSS spilt seat (with fore-grip) or the split seat from Alps, assuming it can be fitted with a fore-grip like the Fuji.

Now to my questions;

1) Is there any significant difference between the two with regards to the two factors I mentioned, or does it just come down to personal choice? and
2) How does one decide exactly where to fit the reel seat? Is there a specific formula? and
3) Am wondering if there is a differance, other than the obvious, between metallic and nylon thread? Is one designed for a specific application, or are they interchangable?

Appreciate any help/advice.

Regards

Geo M.

Geo,
Don't build a rod with a split grip to save weight.
On a rod like that, you actually want some weight in the back of the rod to keep the tip from being so heavy. But your choice.
On most rods like this there is really no reason to put a fore grip, unless you want to have it there for cosmetic reasons.

I would put the reel seat at about 10-14 inches from the butt of the rod to get reasonable balance on this length rod.

I normally never wrap a rod with metallic thread, unless I would want a couple of trim wraps. If that is the case, I will use some metallics for the trim wraps.

I personally feel that by wrapping a rod with metallic, that there is just TOO much on the rod. But again, your choice.

Be safe

Roger,

Thank you much, appreciate the comments/help.

As a first time builder, really shouldn't argue with someone who has done it before but..............that said, I will have to mull over whether I want to change from a split grip, as I really like the increased sensativity a split seat seems to give me, as well as the cosmetics, with fore-grip. My present rods, two 7.5 ft G.Loomis by Temple Forks and a 7 ft Gary Dobyns, have split seats and I really like the feel of them. That said, is there a specific seat you would recommend, considering the application?

Ref the mettalic thread, I think you hit it right on the button. When I think about it, it probably would be too much so will go with nylon thread for everything except maybe where I might use trim bands.

Again thank you much.

Regards

Geo M

Metallic thread is less maneagable than nylon, so I would not recommend it on that basis, except for trim. On your first build, keep it sort of simple. Your skills will grow with every build, so be patient and get more sophisticated in your thread work as you get more experience. I also agree with the argument that using metallic as the prime thread will be too much bright, and will make the rod look cheap.

Regarding split grip, I like split grip on all my casting and spinning rods because I like the feel, the ergonomics of the split grip. Pay particular attention to the dimensions of the butt knob, as it will be in your hand during most casting. It should fit well and be a comfortable, smooth, shape. I make mine "quite rounded." Keep in mind that exotic burl cork weighs almost twice as much as regular cork, and will be very durable, especially if given a coat of cork seal or Tru oil gunstock finish. I mention the weight not as a disadvantage, but in support of contributing to better balance.
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I would place the reel where it should be for good ergonomics, without regard for balance. If you put balance as your #1 priority, I think the reel will be way too far forward. With some fishing techniques, if that distance between the reel and the butt gets too long, the butt will be snagging on your clothing at the elbow. This dimension will be affected by the way you hold the reel, too. Depending on whether you have the reel stem located between the first and second, or second and third finger, has about an inch of influence on this dimension. The dimension is not different for split vs solid grips.

One thing you might do is go to a store and find a similar length rod made by a major, quality , maker, and see if you like its dimensions. I'm thinking Loomis, St Croix, or similar.

For a three power poping rod...and depending on rather you mount the reel seat uplocking or downlocking....I'd suggest a rear grip length from 9-12 inches.

Wasn't mentioned but regular nylon thread requires color preserver.....or it changes color and becomes translucent. Black nylon doesn't need CP and is easy to work with. For that color blank people have reported good results with grey/silver guide wraps with a metallic red trim band....also green wraps with silver trim....or garnet without CP (becomes blach cherry color). There have been some recent posts so you can search for them and see some examples.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Russell,
You set up the definition for the use of color preserver and you are absolutely correct.

Just to be clear, nylon or any other thread does not require color preserver to be applied to the thread for structure or strength.
As you said, color preserver only needs to be applied if you do not want the nylon thread to become darker and more transparent.
Many folks, including many factory rod builders never apply color preserver but rather, use a nylon thread that when coated with guide coating, tends to blend in, and become part of the rod.

So, the use of a color preserver is completely up the the builder of the rod and the final appearance desired for the rod.

Be safe

You are building this rod for yourself right? So be a custom builder and customer tailor the rod to you! How are you going to use the rod? One hand casting or two hand? If it is two handed then pick up the blank and pretend to cast it where are you hands most comfortable? When you find that, your hand will be where the reel seat belongs. If all you do is to copy what someone else's reel seat placement, you're just building another generic rod.

Thank you much for all the advice/help, and the various suggestions point of view.

Was fishing today, and as Michael kind of suggested I actually noted where my hands were when I cast and what I might do to make the feel even more comfortable.

Think I will go with either a split seat or maybe a Fuji VSS seat, whichever feels more comfortable. Also got the point about when/how to use metallic thread and the need for "color fast" if using straight nylon thread.

Again thank you all. Am sure there will be more to come.

Regards

George M

I used to flats fish in central FL. A balanced rod, especially if an 8 footer, is a must!

I recommend that you tape your reel to the blank and figure out your favorite placement before adding anything else. Then once you have comfortable placement, the grips and guides tend to balance each other out, keeping the rod balanced.

Agreed on the burl cork rear grip. If there is going to be weight on the rod, make it in the back, to keep your tip light, and reduce wrist fatigue.

Happy wrapping!

-TH