Hey Fellas,

Just wondering how some of you address the situation of having a super thin diameter rod and only being able to find a grip that is maybe twice the I.D as the blank O.D?

Tape arbors? Regular arbors?

I'm building an UL trout rod and have to use some EVA that has a much wider I.D than the blank O.D. First reaction is tape arbors but wondering if there is anything out there lighter or more creative that you may employ? If you use tape arbors is weight something you consider?

Thanks for your time!

tape arbors will add weight to that UL rod
I would think that if you can not find any eva with a small ID then the graphite arbors can be glued into the eva and then reamed to fit

What about cork grips ?? They come with a 1/4" hole

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2014 03:25PM by bill boettcher.

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I have to use a certain color EVA from a previous grip I did that the guy liked.

Have you put EVA on graphite arbors with success? Glues good? Would contact cement be the better application glue for that?

I would use heavy thread (E) or cord to build up the blank. Wind in close spirals and then "screw" the grip on. With epoxy applied, of course.

.................

drill it out and epoxy in a poly reelseat arbor or two.

______________________________________
Super Tight Lines......Don

Thanks guys.

Interesting with the thread/cord Tom. You've done that with success before?

I'm guessing I can use standard rodbond for the arbor/eva connection if I go that route?

You guys graphite arbor eva before?

I use rod bond And i would say with the arbors Less weight ( depending on how large the hole in the eva is ?? ) Also less glue The arbors are very easy to ream out to fit the blank

Bill - willierods.com

Thank you Bill. Much appreciated.

Have a good day guys!

You will never get the grip on using contact cement!

I have used the cord they use for tieing meat for cooking it absorbs the epoxie well
I think it is cotton has about a 3/32" thick fills the gap fast without a lot of marerial, its also light.
makes for a good adhetion too the blank.
put it on like a cross wrap openings to the blank

Curt

Adam,
Depending on the size ID of the EVA grip, you could use a poly arbor.

Chuck the arbor onto a drill bit to keep it from spinning and hold it against a spinning belt sander to reduce the OD of the arbor to fit the inside of the eva grip.

Pretty quick, very simple and very light.

Just glue on the arbor and grip with epoxy and you are good to go.

By the way, what is the ID of the EVA grip, and what is the OD of the blank that you are installing the grip on?

Be safe

wouldn't the off-white colored polyurethane grip arbors flex coat offers work perfectly for this application? they're meant for reel seats but end to end two could suffice. i'm just speculating though.

eric
fresno, ca.

Adam,

[www.rodbuilding.org]

This rod was done with Mud Hole's light gray/black variegated EVA, 3/8" ID. The blank is a Batson P840. I picked up some graphite arbors that were 12mm in OD and epoxied them in the grip sections. The EVA will fit over the top with a good friction fit, and a little reaming may help if the fit is too snug. The technique works great, and I highly recommend it when you need to arbor a grip for a small OD blank. It's simple and the materials needed are readily available from your supplier. If you bore out the grip for a full sized 16mm arbor, you need to be sure your winding checks will cover the arbor. If your blank ID is less than 1/4", then you might have to get a little more creative.

Joe

Edit: Updated arbor OD after looking up specs.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/20/2014 01:46PM by Joe Vanfossen.

The rigid foam reel seat arbors being talked about are probably the lightest solution. I would turn one to go into the front of the seat, and one to go into the rear of it, maybe an inch. Turn the front one's front inch or so just under the outer diameter as the reel seat hood (uplocking) and you have an easy, light, integral ramp (when finished with epoxy). The rear should be turned to just under the minor diameter of the seat threads for the ramp part of the piece.

The top rod in the article is much bigger, but the principle is the same. Paint the ramps whatever color you want BEFORE gluing into position, and making the front one just under the O.D. of the hood gives you an easy shoulder to apply your epoxy against.

[clients.criticalimpact.com]

Butt. .3" so its probably a little less than that 6.5" up, where the 3.5" EVA portion of the grip went, it was bookend with cork - EVA Grip .5"

I ended up going the arbor route. Thanks for the feedback fellas!

Joe and Michael, those are really nice builds. Michael, gotta be nice to have your work highlighted like that.

Thanks, Adam, appreciate your comment. I'm surprised I don't see more builds utilizing arbors for ramps. Makes for really light, sensitive rods, very clean appearance, very comfortable grips. If you do it right you don't even need winding checks, so the ramp just flows into the blank.