Here is my post from a previous topic.

The guy that I built the rod for who is in Mexico said the foot was
coming off the blank. He sent me pictures and in reality the
epoxy had formed a small crack at the end of several of the guide feet.
Have never had this problem before but this jigging rod is parabolic
and has a severe bend in the blank when loaded up with a 25 lb
Yellow Tail.

Any suggestions please on wrapping procedures that will correct this issue.

Thanks in advance.
Walt

Here is what I ended up doing.
The guide foot wants to push up through the wrap because the blank bends so severe and the foot is too stiff
to enable it to follow the bend of the blank.
So I did what was suggested and thinned the guide feet down and also use smaller guides. But what really nailed
those guide feet down was to change my thread. Standard thread breaks very easily and you cannot put much pressure
on the thread tension without the thread breaking. So what I did was to go buy some Izoriline 12 lb test spectra which
is about the diameter of D thread and wrapped the first wrap with it. I cannot break that line. And can put as much pressure
as I can possibly put on the wrap which really nails that guide foot down to the blank. Apply a thin coat of epoxy then put
the standard colored thread on top of the spectra wrap. It will take a small pick up truck to move those guides up and away from
that blank. Problem Solved...... I think !!

I specifically used Izorline Spectra because it is not coated with anything and the epoxy will soak into it just like a standard thread.
On my first attempt I did use a Coated Spectra...Tuff Line.. and could not get the soaking result I needed so the epoxy would
penetrate the thread and bond to the bland and the guide. Any spectra will work in the 8 to 12 pound test rating but just
make sure it is an uncoated product.

Thanks for all the corrective suggestions in my previous post. Everyone has been a big help. It is appreciated.

Walt

When you have THAT PRESSURE on the rod
Where does the line Lay in each of the guides in question I bet it pushes on the side of the ring causing pressure to pus them over - thus pulling them out of the thread

If it does not lay at the bottom of the ring you either have the guide in the WRONG position or the wrong size

I would say they are and need to be positioned better And possibly sized better also
You should Play with the guides ( I am not getting funny ) But sizing and possitioning should fix it With pressure on the rod !!!!

Bill - willierods.com

I'm sort of with Bill on this.

Do you know the reel's drag setting (measured with a scale) that this guy is using? It sounds to me like you might have a guide layout that might be right for a lighter drag setting, but he's using a much heavier drag setting and really loading the rod to it's limits. Given you say this blank has a parabolic action, the line path could really be moving around depending on how it's loaded.

I'd make sure to find out the heaviest drag setting he will use, and duplicate this with a mock-up reel and check the line path under (his) load.

Obviously something is wrong with the existing setup and the rod is complying with that force by failing, and the failure is the guide wraps. Forcing the guide wraps to hold means something more catastrophic will likely fail down the road. Replacing the weakest link in a chain with a stronger link and repeating the load usually means the next weakest link will fail.

On a power rod like this, you don't really want a perfectly straight line path, there should be some bend to the line at each guide. A bend in the line means that guide is sharing some of the load. If the line goes through a guide and just ever so lightly touches a guide without bending, then that guide is not contributing to distributing the load at all and you could just as well not even have it. On a rod where the primary purpose is to land large fish, and it's secondary role might be to cast or throw a bait, it's desirable to have some bend in the line, just make sure to use common sense and keep the line reasonably close to TDC or BDC of the guide ring. It does not have to be exactly TDC or BDC.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/12/2014 01:01PM by John E Powell.