Hi Guys, was ordering some Concept K's today and Mudhole said they dont make a 10J or 8J, just an H model in each size. Is this normal? If so, does anyone know what I can replace them with? They do list an 8M, and a 6M but I guess I am confused, any help much appreciated!

Scott

"My biggest fear in life is that when I die, my wife will sell my fishing gear for what I said I paid for it."

Would KTAG work for you?

I ran into to this once, I ended up using a TKTAG 10 as the third reduction guide. The height(14.5mm) worked for me and the rod casts great BUT I think there could be a better alternative.

Anglers resource has a guide height chart but some of the sizes that mudhole shows are missing in the K guides.

I found/saved another site with guide heights in case I ran into this again, , not a sponsor so I won't post a link

8H 26.8mm
8M 20.8mm

7M 19.4mm
7L 13.2mm

6M 18.4mm
6L 12.2mm

hope this helps

Matt

The "J" delineation was dropped by Fuji a couple of years ago. It was originally a ring diameter reference when there were various ring diameters to choose from. There is no need to use a "J" designation on any Fuji products nowadays.
As far as the ever expanding "K-Series", here is how it breaks down:

For conventional layouts use the original Series. This would consist of a KW (double foot) or KL (single foot) as a stripper/reduction train (KL's are not used for runners). The choke and next guide or two should be a KB. This guide has a bigger foot for mid-rod stresses and although designed for the "Rapid Choke" outlined in the KR CONCEPT, it is GREAT for mid sections of any K-Series rod. The KB's are followed by the KT frame which is the classic "runner" used from choke to the top. A single foot spinning rod will use KL + KB + KT. A double foot spinner will use KW + KB + KT. A baitcast will use KW (1 stripper) + KB + KT

Light braid and mono layouts (up to 20 lb braid and/or 8-12 lb mono, not necessarily micro rods) will use the new KR CONCEPT. These layouts use the new high-frame, small-ring KL-H guides and the Rapid Choke formula. KL-H is a single foot K-Series guide specifically for this application. A single foot "KR" rod will use KL-H + KB + KT. Currently there is no KW-H double foot high-frame guides, so double foot KR rods are not an option. KR CONCEPT casting rods use standard KW10 guides as a stripper and go down immediately from there to runners from size 4 to 6.

KR CONCEPT has been modified this year by Fuji. We will be discussing those changes in our booth at ICRBE and the use of reduction train "groups" - which make everything MUCH easier. Come see us.

Thanks everyone for the great info. So, I am doing a 12Ft 2 piece Century Surf Rod, would I be ok with the following layout?

KLAG - 30J
KLAG - 25J
KLAG - 20J
KLAG - 16J
KLAG - 12J
KLAG - 10H
KLAG - 8H

or would I be better off with this:

KLAG - 30J
KLAG - 25J
KLAG - 20J
KLAG - 16J
KLAG - 12J
TKTAG - 10J
TKTAG - 8J

Thanks again for taking the time to help me out.

Scott

As mentioned Scott, there are no "J's" and I have never seen anyone mix a standard KL guide with a KL-H in a Cone of Flight rod. Let us know how that works out for you.

Going to order them all and sort it out! I will let you know how it goes, thanks again,

jim
according to the fuji GPS, when using KL guides(not high frame) they recommend using the KT guides for anything smaller than 12. So if I was starting with a KL 25, wouldn't KL 16, KT 10 follow for the reduction train. Are you saying the belly guides should still be used for this setup after the KT 10 . ie; KL+KT+KB+KT

Scott
TKTAG's are the titanium version, the KTAG's would match the rest of your guides

Matt the KB's were designed as a part of the KR Concept. As the choke moves closer, smaller runners are taking the stress that larger reduction guides used to handle easily. As a result of this, Fuji developed the KB specifically to handle those stresses where Rapid Choke applied. The standard KL was not designed for Rapid Choke so it is possible to end up in the situation you find yourself in. Usually, a regular KL guide train will position the choke out far enough that the KB is not needed. For extra insurance you might try a locking wrap on the first two KT's after the final reduction guide or be sure to use the "wicking window" in the KT frame to make sure epoxy runs through the "window" and down to the blank on the front side of the foot. I have never pulled a KT that was applied using that little window for extra protection. Do it all the way to the tip with a sharp dental tool.

thanks JIm, I thought i was missing something since the original KL guide train didnt call for a KB , good info thanks for clearing that up