I've noticed on some of my older saltwater rods (not an apparent problem on my freshwater stuff) that there seems to be rust or corrosion beginning where I ground down the guide feet prior to wrapping. No doubt these will have to be re-wrapped in the future. Usually I use a Sharpie on the exposed metal and haven't coated the exposed metal with anything, thinking that the epoxy rod finish would encapsulate the guide feet and protect them. Apparently this isn't the case. What would be the best thing to use to coat the metal on the guide feet where the finish was removed to prevent the rust/corrosion?

Most likely it was the marker is what caused the corrosion .

______________________________________
Super Tight Lines......Don

I agree with Don on the marker causing the corrosion.
You might try dipping the guide foot in colored lacquer in the future.

Be safe

That is why I will only use titanium or titanium alloy guides.
Fuji "T"'s and REC Recoil.
Herb

Roger,
I was thinking about either using lacquer or even nail polish. I'm assuming (hate to assume anything) that either nail polish or colored lacquer would not be affected by the rod finish. I know that epoxy doesn't bother much of anything, but if I choose to use varnish, that I occasionally use like some old Gudebrod Rod Finish I have, it will dissolve the nail polish or lacquer. I like titanium guides, but if I want a gunsmoke or black guide its not going to work. Plus it runs up the cost of the rod.

Try calling some auto stores There is a boddle with a brush that is used for car touch-up

Permagloss should work Or even lumiseal

Bill - willierods.com

With respect to Bill's comments:

Here are some brush on style touch up paint. I suspect that any of these would work very well.

[www.oreillyauto.com]

Stainless does not rust by oxidizing iron (which turns orange), it corrodes by pitting, which can travel through the entire metal creating a microscopic hole and can show a slight greenish corrosion. Orange rust comes from outside sources, usually a carbon file that has left microscopic particles of carbon steel embedded in the stainless that was filed. To avoid this use a stone to grind feet, not a file. Markers that are chloride based (Sharpies) are very corrosive to stainless and are "outlawed" in the world of stainless fabrication. Non-chloride markers are available.

Jim,

Can you provide a link to an example of a non-chloride marker that you might recommend?

Jim,
I never thought to check what the chemical ingredients are in a Sharpie. Thanks a lot for the tip. Chloride based; that says a lot. In the interest of complete disclosure here, I rarely use a file on guide feet. I use a Dremel with either a grinding stone or one of the small Dremel sanding drums. I'm also wondering if what I'm seeing that I perceive as rust or corrosion (it appears dark in color, not orange) is the Sharpie letting off. Think I'll give lacquer a try. I'll see what Hobby Lobby has.

I'm a Dremel stone fan myself. Here are some chloride-free markers [www.markingpendepot.com]

Those markers that Roger had mensioned should do the trick
I use DupliColor paint to do blanks and they also make paints for Restoration of Older cars
I am sure if it was no good bodyman would not use it on there Totally Restored 55 Chevy or the like

Bill - willierods.com

Try grinding your guide feet from the bottom side of the foot. You wont need to color the top of the foot then.

The bottom of the foot should be filed with a round file so it fits on the round blank ???

Thus the top is ground so the thread has a SLOW taper up the foot !!

Bill - willierods.com

Bill, I use a straight non-tapered dremel stone bit for this. It is round in contour, about 3/4" long by 3/8" dia. and gives a perfect contour to the bottom of the guide foot.

This is the first time I have herd of doing the feet from the bottom

Some thing to think about

Bill - willierods.com

I started using this method on Fuji guides years ago. They have a curvature to the bottom of the foot, and this stone perfectly matches that curve. Doing it this way you don't have a black or gray guide foot with a silver colored tip when you are not using CP.

Those DupliColor touch up markers should take care of that color thing

Bill - willierods.com

A fresh water rinse ALWAYS and IMMEDIATELY after fishing, then allowing the rod to dry should solve your corrosion problem. I live 300' from the ocean and I have been using "fresh-water" rods (and reels) in the salt for decades without problems from corrosion.