Guys I have a few questions regarding the use of PermaGloss if you wouldn't mind.

1.)When using PermaGloss as a finish the blank itself do you need to keep turning or is that unecissary? Is it even a good idea to use it as a blank finish?

2.)Can you use it as finish for guide wraps? If so how many coats does it take I am assuming quite a few more than it would with say a 2 part epoxy like ProKote or FlexCoat.

It's excellent for both blanks and thread wraps.

On the blank, it sets so quickly that you don't need to turn it. The bigger problem is getting it on before it sets. Do a search of this forum's archives for some good application methods.

On thread wraps it gives a different look than epoxy, but is much harder yet more flexible and clear than epoxy.

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Tom Kirkman Wrote:
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> It's excellent for both blanks and thread wraps.
>
> On the blank, it sets so quickly that you don't
> need to turn it. The bigger problem is getting it
> on before it sets. Do a search of this forum's
> archives for some good application methods.
>
> On thread wraps it gives a different look than
> epoxy, but is much harder yet more flexible and
> clear than epoxy.
>
> ...............…..


Tom on thread wraps how many coats does a person need to put on? When I use regular epoxy I use two coats but on the current rod I am working on I want to go as light as I possibly can and I am thinking that using PermaGloss instead of regular epoxy will keep things lighter

It will. You'd need about 3 for permanent protection. Just remember, it won't look like epoxy.

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It will. You'd need about 3 for permanent protection. Just remember, it won't look like epoxy.

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I have searched the forum archives regarding use of Perma Gloss as a rod finish. Find several references to the use of coffee filters as a media for applying. Can someone be more specific on how the filter paper is used ?

Scott, I use PermaGloss on all of my fly rod builds. I find four coats begins to produce a bit more gloss, but Tom K is correct, it will never look like epoxy. I did a test wrap using CP followed by 8 coats of PermaGloss. This test did show considerable gloss, but you haven't gained anything because you have added weight and it still doesn't look like epoxy.

I personally like PermaGloss because of the ease of application, the harder surface, and high flexibility.

As to coating a blank with PermaGloss, I rebuilt an inexpensive bamboo rod a few years ago and coated the bamboo blank with PermaGloss. I purchased some small triangles of extremely soft sponge from a pharmacy. These are used by women to apply makeup. I Placed a small amount of PermaGloss on one side of the sponge and then squeezed tightly at the top of a rod section and in one stroke brought down the blank section. When it dried, I checked it for any missing places and rotated the blank section about sixty degrees and repeated the process twice more. I found this was a quick and efficient means of getting a thin coating of the PermaGloss on the blank section. I hope this helps.

Mike Blomme

So want does it look like on thread? Any pictures? I'm about to buy some and was originally just going to cant the blank but this has tweaked my interest. I also had planned to apply it to the blank with a brush and use the motor to spin it quickly. Will this work?

On thread wraps it's okay to use a brush. It will look more like varnish. If you apply more and more coats to build depth, it will have a bit of a 'eggshell' surface.

I think I have some examples of the stuff used on guide wraps on the photo page under my name.

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I forgot to ask, how suitable is it on guide wraps for heavy saltwater work? Still hold up well?

Michael Blomme Wrote:
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> Scott, I use PermaGloss on all of my fly rod
> builds. I find four coats begins to produce a bit
> more gloss, but Tom K is correct, it will never
> look like epoxy. I did a test wrap using CP
> followed by 8 coats of PermaGloss. This test did
> show considerable gloss, but you haven't gained
> anything because you have added weight and it
> still doesn't look like epoxy.
>
> I personally like PermaGloss because of the ease
> of application, the harder surface, and high
> flexibility.
>
> As to coating a blank with PermaGloss, I rebuilt
> an inexpensive bamboo rod a few years ago and
> coated the bamboo blank with PermaGloss. I
> purchased some small triangles of extremely soft
> sponge from a pharmacy. These are used by women
> to apply makeup. I Placed a small amount of
> PermaGloss on one side of the sponge and then
> squeezed tightly at the top of a rod section and
> in one stroke brought down the blank section.
> When it dried, I checked it for any missing places
> and rotated the blank section about sixty degrees
> and repeated the process twice more. I found this
> was a quick and efficient means of getting a thin
> coating of the PermaGloss on the blank section. I
> hope this helps.
>
> Mike Blomme


Mike,

Thank you, I thought I had remembered reading something like this on here before but I couldn't remember. I tried using a paper towel last night and I don't like it at all, I am going to hit it with some super fine sandpaper and try it again with a makeup sponge.

I have only used it once to refinish an old Hardy mooching rod however the results were fabulous.
I used a tire shine applicator sponge but after seeing the wifes makeup sponges, I they would likely work better.
2 things I found,
I needed to squish the sponge into a dish of Permagloss and slowly let it expand and soak up the Permagloss in order to get enough on the sponge to do the blank in one pass.
The other was to travel slow enough not to cause bubbles from the trailing edge of the foam.

PermaGloss will outlast any epoxy by a wide, wide margin. If you want the strongest wraps, although it's probably overkill, PermaGloss is the product you want.

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