Just finished putting on a third coat of Prokote on my decorative wrap. Noticed that the area where the blank shows is lower than where the threads are. Does anyone know why or how this happens? Can't figure out what's going on. Has this happened to anyone else, and what's the answer to correct it? Thanks for any help.

I never used that epoxy but if you are talking fish eyes? You just need to scuff with scotch brite lightly and re due that area. Don't worry it happens more then you think.

Lone Wolf Rods
"Keep your powder dry and your lines wet"
God Bless

Did you Level the blank befor you put the finish on ????

Bill - willierods.com

I think he may be talking about exposed blank between wraps.

The O.D is different in the spot with no thread than that with thread.

I dont do long decorative wraps so dont know the best way to avoid it. In the few I've done whatever was there got straightened out around the 3rd coat.

Hopefully someone with more experience can dial you in.

That's natural and to be expected. The only way to level it across both wraps and blank is to put on a ton of finish (multiple coats) then block sand to level, and add one more coat.

...........

Bill, No I didn't level the blank, just put it in my dryer and applied it. Adam, you're as to my problem. Where the blank is the OD is smaller then where the wrap is. The wrap is220 mm in length. Tom, really hoping for a better way but don't know what that way is. I guess I'll have to try what you said. Thanks everyone.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2014 06:24PM by Jack Tener.

I never had to to block sand any butt wraps

The first coat was heavy and wet

As I had it turning I would look at it and if needed would add
let set
Then added another coat heavy
I would stop the turner and let any excess drip off Do several 180 turns

After set maybe a final coat -- or two it was always a light finish
I also do them on a fast turning machine That 6 - 9 rpm means nothing to me

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/08/2014 06:45PM by bill boettcher.

There isn't much of any other way. The area with the wraps is higher than the blank. So the resulting finish will mimic that.

You could possibly fill the open areas first, a few times. Then once things are leveled start again from there.

...............

Try applying a little finish to the exposed areas to build them up, then a good coat over that. This will help minimize any block sanding that may be required next to get the high spots down to the low spots. One final topcoat and it should be like glass if that is the look your going after.

Shaded diamond wrap left open. No high or low spots in the epoxy. The only trick I use it to apply finish, it comes out like this on it's own - no sanding, no adding finish to low spots - no voodoo. Just apply finish and heat it and it comes out as perfect as it's going to get. There is a high spot in the tie off area on the left. [www.rodbuilding.org]
If you really want to screw up all your hard work I suggest sanding it - yeah it sounds really easy and it is when oyu know what you're doing. Until you make a mistake and hit teh threads and have to add a couple more coats to be able to cut all teh nubs off teh messed up threads. MAke this mistake and you'll end upw ith 5 heavy coats of finish, and it still won't be level.

Very nice Billy!

One trick to see if the finish is truly flat is to look at the reflected shine, if it is straight then you have a flat surface. Most of Billy's is covered with thread (although not all), but if you had more exposed blank the unevenness would be more pronounced.

Chester

May your line be tight and your beverages be cold!

I don't have pics of wraps with less thread & finish, but I will in a couple of days as I just put epoxy on one 20 minutes ago. IT'll come out straight too - there's no magic trick just practice. I do so much less now than when Is tarted out and everyone had all these tips and tricks that never worked out the way people said they would. Once I stopped listening and just put the finish on, heat it and let it turn - the difference is night and day

Hi Billy,

That sounds good, please post the picture and let us know when you do. I'd like to see it!

Chester

May your line be tight and your beverages be cold!

I'll take a pic tomorrow when this coat sets up, and when it's complete



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/09/2014 09:32AM by Tom Kirkman.

Nice looking Billy! Keep the pictures coming to show everyone that it can be done.

Chester

May your line be tight and your beverages be cold!

Please put the photo on the photo page.

.........

heavy coats -- fast turner
Don't be afraid to load it on Sounds like you are putting it on lightly

Bill - willierods.com

HEre's the first coat of finish on a shaded Royal blue diamond left open. You can see teh high & low spots if you look along the edge of the wrap and follow teh glare: [www.rodbuilding.org]

Billy,

Do you level the blank on your dryer every time? Are you other folks leveling your rod on the dryer?

You can't catch any fish sitting on the couch!
Houston, TX

Andrew,
I would expect that most folks have level rod building benches.
I would expect that most folks have dryer motors at the same elevation as their rod rests.

So, if you put a rod on a level bench where one spot is at the same as any other spot on the rod, the rod WILL be level.

I have never even considered the possibility that my rod wasn't level, either wrapping or drying for these reasons.

Be safe