Does a high build epoxy exist that has good bubble release and long pot life. I use Flex Coat High Build love the characteristics of the epoxy but, the pot life @#$%& and the bubble release isn't the greatest. Thank you. Ps I hate light builds or even medium ones.

The pot life should be sufficient to do the job. How much time are spending per guide wrap? More than a half minute?

Working in a cooler area, within reason, will extend the pot life but inhibits bubble release. Working in a warmer area will facilitate bubble release but reduce pot life. One end tends to work against the other.

...........

A little Common Sense
take a straw and stick it in Honey or maple syrup Blow bubbles in them --- How long does it take for the bubbles to come to the surface and be Gone
Now do the same in water There are no bubbles They release right away
Why do you read that a lot of builders use heat to FLOW high build finish It Thins the finish and lets the bubbles come to the surface and release

You having bubble problems Either Thin the high build to release them and have a longer pot life
Or
Use a light finish Which is the same as thinning high build Two coats of the light

IMHO

Bill - willierods.com

Gabreilie
I figure that the real pot life of high build flex coat is about 4 minutes.
I mix up a new batch for each rod and have enough time to take care of it.
On rods with fewer guides and shorter butt wraps I can usually do two rods. But that is about the extent of a reasonable working life with this material.
I always use heat on each guide to let the finish flow and release any potential bubbles.
I use a heat gun and as the saying goes, "just a little dab will do it" Just a quick pass or two over the finish and the finish nicely thins, flows and releases any potential bubbles.

I use one coat and let dry for about 4 minutes and then touch up any spots that have thinned too much, and flow that out. I almost never use a full two coats.

No need with this finish.

Be safe

A fast RPM also lets the rod Hold a thicker coat of a thin finish Plus the thin finish flows but releases bubbles better has a longer WET LIFE and on A thread IF you get the first coat on ( no boo boos ) Your done

I always put a coat on Then take care of Fussies dirt Scoff then a nice thin coat And it looks like glass

Bill - willierods.com

Exactly what RPM is recommended for a nice thick high build coat?

I am doing 13 ft Centerpin rods Tom so I really like to take my time cause , I have a lot going on. Bill I really struggle with light build on the finishing lines. High build stays where I put it, I find the high build is easier to get smooth results for me. I like to dry at 9 rpm and apply at 18rpm.

Roman,
Just use your power wrapper when applying finish.

Just use your foot pedal to get the finish that you like.

I find that the I vary the speed from 0 to about 50 rpm.

Most of the finish application is done at about 20-30 rpm.

Be safe

Gabriele,

It is in "taking your time" where you are creating problems for yourself. There is no need trying to get the epoxy to do what it will do on its own.

Load your brush, lower it to the wrap from above, just letting the epoxy touch the wrap. Now rotate the rod one revolution. That's it. You're done with that wrap. If the wrap is very long, you may need to repeat this one brush width over. Again, that's it. Move on to the next wrap. Don't waste time poking, painting, dabbing, etc. You can do that after all the wraps are coated, although it's rare that you'd need to that.

The epoxy will flow and level, if you'll let it. By taking so much time doing what the epoxy is going to do on its own, the epoxy is getting thicker and harder to work with. It won't flow as well at that point. Try to coat the wrap quickly and move on. If you're taking more than maybe a half minute per wrap, you have a ton of room for improvement in your finishing technique. This simple step could, in fact, solve your finishing problem.

................

Thanks Roger,

No power wrapper in my shop... yet. I use a hand wrapper and an 18 RPM Batson drying motor, which I use for finish application.

Thanks Tom I will give it a try, I am driving down from Toronto, Canada Can I bug u at the Rod Building show.

Thank u to everyone for there advice



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2014 08:24PM by gabriele schieda.

Sure.

..............

Tom, perhaps I am not understanding this.

I also spend a lot of time making sure my epoxy edge is nice and sharp before I move on to the next wrap and let the epoxy flow and level. How does this work for you with just a single revolution? How do you get both edges exactly where you want them to be? Or, does it just come with experience?

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Gabriele,
>
> It is in "taking your time" where you are creating
> problems for yourself. There is no need trying to
> get the epoxy to do what it will do on its own.
>
> Load your brush, lower it to the wrap from above,
> just letting the epoxy touch the wrap. Now rotate
> the rod one revolution. That's it. You're done
> with that wrap. If the wrap is very long, you may
> need to repeat this one brush width over. Again,
> that's it. Move on to the next wrap. Don't waste
> time poking, painting, dabbing, etc. You can do
> that after all the wraps are coated, although it's
> rare that you'd need to that.
>
> The epoxy will flow and level, if you'll let it.
> By taking so much time doing what the epoxy is
> going to do on its own, the epoxy is getting
> thicker and harder to work with. It won't flow as
> well at that point. Try to coat the wrap quickly
> and move on. If you're taking more than maybe a
> half minute per wrap, you have a ton of room for
> improvement in your finishing technique. This
> simple step could, in fact, solve your finishing
> problem.
>
> ................



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2014 09:49PM by Roman Chamine.

Hold the brush steady and turn the rod under it. The edge will be straight and crisp. That's all you have to do. If you poke, prod and paint, you're just upsetting the epoxy.

.............

Something that helps us is to use a hairdryer on the finish after it has been applied and while the rod is turning.
As Tom says, just gently lay a coat on the wrap from the top down, no "dabbing" or "brushing".
If a very long area like a long butt wrap, then applying and using gentle "lengthwise" strokes to help it spread out.
I find using the hair dryer on a medium setting allows the finish to thin out as it turns,
helps bubbles come out, and helps to focus my eyes to see any imperfections.
If there is a little too much finish, it will sag and give you a good chance to wisk it off with your brush.
if too little, you can add a dab.
Just be sure that the area you are finishing in has no dust for the moving air to pick up and deposit on the finish.
Hope this helps,

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Perhaps mixing smaller batches of finish is the answer.
There is no rule that says you have to do it all in one shot.
If the pot life is four guides, at your personal speed, why mix 10 guides worth of finish?
My finish problems went away when I started using small 3ml. syringes, for very accurate measurements of small amounts of resin and hardener.
I seldom mix more than .5ml at a time...This is about 1/8 of a teaspoon to you Yankees...;-)
My mixing is done in the dent on the bottom of an empty soda or beer can.
Since there is so little volume the mixing time is minimal, bubbles release easily and I am always working with fresh finish.
I use disposable brushes, but on a long rod, I will wipe the brush and use it as a stirring stick for second or third batches.

Gabriele:

Look me up at the Michigan Rod Builder's booth. It sounds from the board that there are a number of builders from Ontario

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON

On this board I read one time to think of the brush you are using more as a spatula. It was very good advise for me who is only 12 rods into the hobby or so. I'm not having any problems with pot life or bubbles. I warm my epoxy in their separate part A and part B bottles under a shop lamp until it is warm to the touch. That has really helped to.

Best,

Andrew

You can't catch any fish sitting on the couch!
Houston, TX

Tom, this novice wonders when you say "one revolution and you're done" are you assuming the brush is almost as wide as the wrap? I'm trying to imagine how that works if I use a disposable 1/4" brush on a 1" guide wrap. Will it really flow to the edges of the wrap? I'm in the process of practicing on junk rods so I will do as you recommend and see how far it spreads.
Btw, I tried a spatula and that didn't work at all. I'm thinking I need to grind the rounded end to a more square end.
I'm experimenting with FlexCoat Lite and it's making a thick coat but not too runny - maybe because my basement shop is 62 degrees.

John
Chippewa Falls, WI