Why does my rod chuck keep on coming undone when Im wrapping or using my burnisher to smooth my wraps? Im a new builder, and I have made a couple of rods using a hand made wrapper, but now that I have the Pac Bay power wrapper it seems more trouble to use it and have the rod jump out of the chuck, and have to go back and do the wrap over again after. Please is there a trick or technique to using the chuck on this machine?

thanks. Ernest

Ernest,
I take it that this is the chuck that you have on your wrapper?

[www.jannsnetcraft.com]

Your problem has been experienced by many many builders using various chucks.

There are a few suggestions that make the chuck work better. This is true of both Pac Bay chucks as well as other makers of different chucks.

1. Take a rubber band and take a few wraps around the butt of the grip. The rubber has enough give and compression to allow for the chuck to get a good grip and keep it on the grip.

2. Another thing that may help, is to take a couple of wraps of maxking tape around the butt of the rod.

3. If the previous hints don't make the chuck bullet proof, you can often use a size 64 rubber band and put it around the outside of the chuck a couple of times.

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Depending on whether you are handy or not, I do have one fix that has worked very well for me, but does take a bit of machining.
If you do this, yhou have to be careful, so that you machine all three of the chucks exactly the same so that the chuck will still self center.

The thing that I have done with my chucks is to
a. remove the covers that are on the face of the chuck jaws.
b. Then, with each jaw removed from the chuck, use a drum sander of about a 1 1/4 inch in diameter to sand in a depression into the face of the chuck jaw. So, rather than having a flat jaw to clamp the grip in place, you have a set of concave jaws which more nearly match the contour of the grip and give a much larger and slip proof gripping area on the jaw chucks.

But, as I said at the beginning of this note; If you do the fix, be sure to do it very carefully, and machine each chuck in exactly the same fashion and amount so that you still have a perfectly centering chuck.

Be safe
p.s.
About 90% of the time, a rubber band looped around the grip a couple of times completely solves the problem.

G'Day Ernest I used to have the same problem on my Alps Wrapper .My solution was to make sure that the blank is parallel to the center line of the wrapper for this I use a laser level but you could also use a ruler or even the depth gauge on Vernier calipers will do the job . I also like to have a plan B & for that I use Rogers sugestion of using a rubber band around the grip

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

Ernest

I have the same wrapper, and use the tape Roger mentioned.

A couple of steps I use seems to help keep rods in the chuck are as follows:

Hand tighten as much as possible with the back nut loose.
Grab the 3 chuck jaws and squeeze
While squeezing the jaws, tighten the back nut

This works on nearly every rod I put on the wrapper. On rare occasions when I get a stubborn one that wants to come out, I use the rubber band method previously described.

Terry

Until I got the new ALPS chuck I just used an appropriate sized hose clamp over the chuck grips and never had an issue, a $3.00 solution.

Another long term solution is to use a different chuck.

[www.taigtools.com]

The 3 jaw Taig chuck #1050 is a very good chuck that works well for all applications.

Also, spare aluminum jaws.

The full circle aluminum jaws have a very nice application that may work very well indeed for various parts of rod building.

[www.taigtools.com]


This chuck uses a 3/4 X 16 thread, so you will have to make appropriate accommodations to use a head stock shaft that will accommodate this thread size.

Be safe

An easy fix is to loop a rubber band, or three, from the exposed end of one jaw , around the blank or handle and hook it to another jaw.
The plastic chuck on my dryer has hooks molded in for this purpose. This will stop the jaws from loosening as the rod turns.
Some chucks, like the Alps, have a tension screw on the back that you can adjust.
Others, like the black plastic jaws on the standard power winder and my dryer, have a black metal blade on the back side of the chuck, that needs to be tightened after the rod is in place.
The rubber band trick will improve the grip of any style.
Garry2rs

+2 on the rubber band, a few turns around the buttcap or blank....no more slips.

Thank you for your fast reply, and I will be trying every idea until one works. Thanks Again Everybody -Ernest

Mr. Cameron,
Below I have pasted the standard email we send to customers that have questions or concerns about rods coming out of power wrapper chucks. Please feel free to contact us at info@fishpacbay.com if you have any additional questions or concerns you need answered.

We do get concerns about this issue from time to time. Below I have listed the things to check to ensure proper operation of the Standard or Deluxe Chuck.
1. If there is an end piece such as a gimbal that would taper towards the chuck we strongly suggest installing it after you are done with the rest of the build. No flat-jawed chuck will hold a tapered piece such as a gimbal very well. Simply install your choice of grip as usual but leave the butt cap/gimbal install until the end.
2. If you are using a larger diameter blank, be sure to use the concave set of rubber jaw covers that came with your wrapper. (If you don't have these please contact us or your dealer to obtain a set.)
3. Make sure the blank is level with the center of the chuck (both vertically and horizontally) along the entire length of the blank's center line, not the top or bottom edge of the blank as this will cause skew to occur as a result of the blank's taper. A great way to ensure vertical alignment is to cut a piece of material (wood dowel, old blank section, etc..) that is the exact distance from the bed of your wrapper to the center of the chuck. Then you can use that object to ensure that your blank is centered to the chuck along the entire length of the blank.

Not having the blank centered to the chuck accounts for nearly all instances of blanks "walking" out of the chuck.

4. If you suspect you have a faulty or worn out chuck you can test whether or not it is spinning true by following steps a - c below.
a. Remove the drive belt so the chuck can spin freely.
b. Close the chuck all the way so the rubber jaws are touching each other.
c. Spin the chuck at high speed with your hand and watch the center of the chuck where the jaws come together. A circle will form (optically) when the chuck is spinning. If there is more than approximately 1mm of run-out occurring then your chuck may be defective or worn out.

I personally build quite a few R&D rods (that will usually get abused and/or destroyed) using a Deluxe Chuck and rarely have any issues even when drying overnight. But when I build a personal rod (one with some time into it) I always use masking tape to bond the rod-end and chuck together using multiple wraps of tape during the drying stage. This ensures that the rod cannot come out of the chuck while drying, no matter what. Its just insurance that costs you 20 seconds at the beginning and end of the drying process. I hope this info is helpful to you.

-The Batson TEAM
BatsonEnterprises.com

Another very good chuck for both wrapping as well as drying is the simple pvc cap with a neoprene cover over the open end with a hole in the neoprene.

This chuck takes a large variety of butt grip sizes and I have never had a rod slip or some out of the chuck when using for either wrapping or drying.

[www.mudhole.com]

If you don't want to buy a chuck, you can make such a chuck from a $1 pvc end cap and a piece of 1/32 inch thick neoprene and a couple of tie wraps.

For example:
In time past, I have made several of these inexpensive chucks:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I elected to use a larger piece of pvc to clamp the neoprene to the pvc cap. However, unless you have about 4 or 5 hands, it is very very tough to get the neoprene stretched over the cap and slip the cap in place to act as a clamp.
The use of tie wraps would be much easier. But again, the use of a helper with two more hands work better, so one person can stretch the neopren with its pre cut 1/2 inch hole over the cap and then the other person can clamp the neoprene in place using either tie wraps or another piece of pvc material.

Be safe



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/02/2013 01:10PM by roger wilson.

if the center plane of the chuck is not the same as the center plane of the rod ,it will work its way out of the chuck , so make sure the center of the chuck is pointing on the same plane as the rod
if not adj the the motor or the rest pivot point so every thing lines up , it don't have to be perfect , but the closer the better , an don't for get to make it level when you put the FLEX COAT on the wrap , as it will smoth out , but also run down hill some , I think SID

William Sidney
AK

if the center plane of the chuck is not the same as the center plane of the rod ,it will work its way out of the chuck , so make sure the center of the chuck is pointing on the same plane as the rod
if not adj the the motor or the rest pivot point so every thing lines up , it don't have to be perfect , but the closer the better , an don't for get to make it level when you put the FLEX COAT on the wrap , as it will smoth out , but also run down hill some , I think SID

William Sidney
AK

if the center plane of the chuck is not the same as the center plane of the rod ,it will work its way out of the chuck , so make sure the center of the chuck is pointing on the same plane as the rod
if not adj the the motor or the rest pivot point so every thing lines up , it don't have to be perfect , but the closer the better , an don't for get to make it level when you put the FLEX COAT on the wrap , as it will smoth out , but also run down hill some , I think SID

William Sidney
AK

if the center plane of the chuck is not the same as the center plane of the rod ,it will work its way out of the chuck , so make sure the center of the chuck is pointing on the same plane as the rod
if not adj the the motor or the rest pivot point so every thing lines up , it don't have to be perfect , but the closer the better , an don't for get to make it level when you put the FLEX COAT on the wrap , as it will smoth out , but also run down hill some , I think SID

William Sidney
AK

when i first read this..i think my account is hijack or i must be drunk last night when i write it so i don't realize that i starting a new thread.
instead a same front name, now i have same issues with the same power wrapper too
LOL
thanks ernest to start this thread

I would use the rubber bands
I have two chucks from Cabellas that have a cone shape where the handles sets 4 pegs that are used to hold rubber bands wrapped around the handle to hold it
Have Never Had A Rod slip off Even heavy salt rods On the dryer So they should work well on the wrapper
Just check the bands once in a while to see if they are cracking Then replace Plus painters tape around the handle

Bill - willierods.com