I have a Shikari rod I built a few years ago and broke the tip section about 2' from the tip. I would like to fix it by putting a ferrule at the break. The blank is about 4mm at the break. Is this something that should work and any ideas where to get a ferrule that size?

You won't like it. Will add too much weight too far out.

Use the repair article in the library here to fix is nearly good as new. That's a much better option and one that will keep the rod serviceable for a long time.

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I'm not a big builder (or repairer) but I've gone 3 for 3 with what Tom recommends, and you probably will not notice it when fishing. One detail that's easy to miss is that the sleeves should be a lower modulus than the rod.

Herb,
I would first of all NOT trim any part of the breaks. Rather, refit the rod blanks so that the jagged edges line up to give you more gluing area.
Then, find a piece of rod blank that will make a nicely sized thin wall over sleeve, overlapping any part of the break on either side by at least 2 inches.
Then, find a piece of music wire that is a nice fit on the inside of the blank.
For smaller tip areas, I much prefer the use of music wire because it does not break, is reasonably light, and really does not add to the rod stiffness much. If the break is on a larger part of the blank, I prefer to use hollow fiberglass for the inner tube for both lighter weight as well as better flexibility than if the inner sleeve were graphite. Again, if you are repairing a larger part of the blank, it is nice to use thin wall fiberglass as well, to avoid killing too much of the rod action.

Once you have the wire, and the over sleeve fitted for a nice fit, mix up a batch of 5 minute epoxy and glue on the inner filler wire, the over sleeve, and the two broken rod pieces into a completed assembly that is correctly aligned. i.e. all of the jagged pieces of the blank keyed to gather to get the correct alignment and strength.

After drying, do an over wrap of at least 3/8th of an inch on each end of the outer over sleeve to prevent any possible splitting. Coat the wraps and you will be good to go. With materials on hand, the entire repair, except for drying time should take about 30 minutes.

Be safe

Another vote for Ralph O'Quinn's article in the library. I respectfully disagree with Roger on the wire.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

I wouldn't have any idea what the wire is supposed to accomplish.

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The wire does identically the same job as a graphite or fiberglass inner sleeve. The difference is that for fine tips, most graphite and fiberglass is too large to fit inside the tip, and if it does fit inside the tip, it stiffens a soft tip too much.

Give it a try - it works.

Be safe

Leaving the wire out will work just as well.

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Mr. Kirkman,
Sorry to disagree.
I have tried it both ways, and have had repair failures without an inner sleeve for the small tip repairs.

Be safe

I've not had a failure and have never put wire inside a rod, nor any sort of internal plug, even within a few inches of the tip. I guess Herb can take the advice here and decide for himself. Either way, I'd repair it rather than install a ferrule.

...............

That is good.
I have also never had a failure with a rod repair, as long as I use an internal piece of blank, or wire if very small diamter.

One note, for the sake of appearance, I always try to use as thin a piece of blank as possible for the outer sleeve. This means that for some sleeve's, I might reduce the wall thickness by 1/2 to 2/3rd. The result, is that along with the internal piece of blank, I have a repair that leaves a very clean appearance, and with no failures.

However, I did have a couple of failures when using very thin outside sleeves and no inside sleeve.

Perhaps, that is the difference between my repairs, compared to yours, Mr. Kirkman.

But, in any event, the repair that you use, works.
The repairs that I use now, also work very well.

At the end of the day, the customer ends up happy with a useful functioning rod.

Be safe

Thanks for the help. I wiil fix rather than add a ferrule.

Herb

"...broke the tip section about 2' from the tip."

That would be a hefty chuck of music wire. The OD of the blank at the break is 4mm.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

Chuck,
Yes, but that means that the ID of the blank is about 1.5 mm. This equals .059 inches.

1/16th inch = .0625 inches.

7/128th of an inch = .053 inches.

So, no Chuck, the id of the blank is really only suitable for a 1/32 inch piece of wire or similar.

Be safe.

Remember, I am only talking about using wire for very fine tipped rods with breaks near the tip using a very thin outer sleeve for appearance.

With tip repairs, it is important to reduce the size of the sleeve, or use thin fiberglass material. I typically sand the sleeve after gluing to reduce the diameter as much as I can prior to over wrapping with size A thread. This is all explained pretty well in the library article on rod repair and it's never let me down.

The idea is to retain the long fibers in the sleeve and use the thread as hoop strength to hold it all together. If the long fibers are removed by sanding, then there is opportunity for failure. It all takes a little practice but if the sleeve is constructed properly, not sure the wire is needed.

Terry

I have probably 50 + repairs working on the water without a failure. These repairs could be anywhere from butt to tip and none have failed when following Mr. O'quinn's repair procedure to the letter. Wouldn't even consider using a piece of wire inside the blank.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY