i got a house of hardy fibatube fly rod blank 10-1/2 ft. rated for 6,7,8 weight with spigot ferrules. how long should the wrap be at the ferrules, i'm building this as a float rod for rainbows in smaller rivers. i will be make an elliptical inlay on the handle using cork. i no longer have my tablesaw, so i will be making the cut with a miter box and hand saw, what would the best type of saw to use in making this cut? any suggustions would be helpful. thank you

Not long, just close to the edge and enough to prevent a split-out from beginning. Maybe a half inch or so.

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unless a guide is real close to it , then make the guid an the spigot as one wrap [ make the wrap a little longer ] some times it just works out that way , more so with the 3 / 4 / 5 section rods

William Sidney
AK

Hi. As per Mr. Kirkman's advisory, there's a minimum and a maximum. The minimum once was about 3 times the diameter of the blank,
or about the half-inch. Cosmetics can play a part as wel, along with the placement of the last guide on the tip section.

If you are doing a pin rod, you might want to adjust total spacing, so the last of the tip guides, and the first of the butt guides are in close proximity to each other for transport between runs, when you take the rod down. When the guides are spaced thus, it makes it easy to re-assemble on the next run, compensating for the fixed or slip float, and leader.

Fenwick (when they did glass) used to put a blurb in with the blank, that if 2" of the ferrule was not wrapped, there would be no warranty for splits. Of sourse these were sleeve over ferrules.

On my jet black Hardy Alnwick blanks, I liked to make the wraps on both sections the same length. I used 2" as I found the longer wrap there, was good to look at.