I am going to make my first cork grips. I would like to use colored glue/epoxy between the cork rings. will elmer's wood glue and food coloring work for this or do I need to use marbling pigment and epoxy? what kind of epoxy if I need to go that route?
thanks,
mick

Mick,
You could certainly put food coloring in Elmers wood glue and that would work fine.

However, do some test gluing to determine the amount of color you are going to get.

Be safe

I suggest using a piece of colored paper between each ring and use regular rod builders epoxy. It will be consistent. I have done it with heavy black paper.

Greg
Aptos, CA

I'd go that route as well.

...........

when using the colored paper, do I need to put any finish over it? seems like it could bleed when wet.

Use a piece of EVA foam sheets. Use Flex Coat rod builders epoxy.

Most often the glue will soak into the paper, darkening it a tad and sealing it from the elements at the same time.

..................

With cork I have used Thin Plastic and glued with Contact cement
But I see no reason you can not use rod bond Regular You don't need much A thin coat
Prep the plastic Wash Then scuff with 220 dry paper or even a Red scoff pad For a good bond

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/15/2013 04:25PM by bill boettcher.

I have not tried using food coloring, but I'd don't like the idea of any water soluble colorant in a wet environment. I am very skeptical that food coloring would not bleed when soaked.

Same for the paper recommendations above - even though the paper will be saturated with adhesive, I'd still do a test soak with the paper you choose to make sure it's colorfast when wet. I tried something like this with some "low-bid" construction paper once and it turned out to be a mess. Under close inspection i discovered that while each surface was indeed saturated, the core of the paper was not (it was fairly heavy 90 wt paper maybe). The unsaturated red paper core bled badly, it looked like a crime scene.

bill boettcher Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> With cork I have used Thin Plastic and glued with
> Contact cement
> But I see no reason you can not use rod bond
> Regular You don't need much A thin coat
> Prep the plastic Wash Then scuff with 220 dry
> paper or even a Red scoff pad For a good bond
>
> [www.rodbuilding.org]
> /photo/17064/title/contact-cement-and-cork-with-pl
> astic/cat/500

That looks good Bill. What type of plastic are you using?

Tom

Not sure I got it from a Childrends place where teachers get school supplies I was getting a box of popsicle sticks
It was a Top of a storage container Thin - flexable And with a wash and prep held well

I am going to try the Tap Plastics I would think they will work as long as both sides are preped well

Bill - willierods.com

have used thin plywood 3/64 , 1/32 [ model planes many ply ] it works well to a point when you rotate the handle the color will change some ,
because of the ply wood angle change in the light but it is not bad , cuts well an sands an glues well, with all glues for handles will not hold the color long [ fades out ] if you want color in the wood ,

William Sidney
AK

If you intend to color a glue or epoxy, pigments work much better than dyes, as they are solids and usually are stronger color and will not fade as reapidly.. I use Xerox colored toner, but it is not available to most of us. It really works well and takes a very very small amount to achieve good strong colors.

IMO, the plastics work the best. For colored ones, these are nice, but require prepping the plastic and using polyurethane glue.
The "high tech plastic spacer" is really thin. I use it alot.
[www.texasknife.com]