I'm down to my last one and I can't find them listed anywhere, I see only the ribbed ones.
The length was approx. 2"
The O.D. was 1-1/4"
They came in various I.D.'s - 3/4" 7/8" and 1"

Because of the heavy wall thickness, I was able to turn them down so that the outside diameter would be a good match for smaller diameter rear grips.
They were also perfect for the times when I needed extra large hossels/winding checks. I could use my lathe to cut them into 3/4" wide bands then tapper.

If anyone knows of a source please post. Every time I think I have a lifetime supply of something I live longer than I ever expected.

Thanx

Living longer is a good thing, don't knock it! ;-)

Chester

May your line be tight and your beverages be cold!

Robert,
I buy them all of the time and do the same thing.
I put them onto a mandrel on a 3600 rpm and use various grades of sand paper to get the shape and size that I want.
When spinning, I just use a Kinzu knife to trim the end of the cap to the length that I want. I make sure that I am holding the knife angled just a bit toward the inside of the cap so that there is a slight negative edge on the cap for a very clean installation.

I just go to my favorite ACE hardware store, and buy rubber chair leg tips in the size and color that I want. The cost is about 50-75 cents each.

--------------------
P.s.
You are talking about only seeing ribbed ones. Where are the ribs on the ones that are found with ribs on them.

The caps that I get from the hardware store have slight ribs on the inside of the caps. However, I like the small ribs on the inside of the caps, since the ribs hold the glue and help to hold the finished cap on the end of the rod, after applying 5 minute epoxy to the inside of the cap.

Be safe
[www.homedepot.com]


By the way, if you are worried about the ribs on the bottom of the chair leg tip, sand them off. I start with 80 grit emery cloth - with the chair leg tip spinning at 3600 rpm. I use 80 grit paper with a sander backing held against the end of the cap to remove all of the ridges and or ribs.
Then, I use the sand paper with the backing board against the side to size the cap and shape. After getting close to the final dimension, I use finer sandpaper and finish up with 150 grit. I have found that there is little need to go any finer than 150 grit for shaping these rubber caps.

I have a series of cut pieces of aluminum rod that I use as a mandrel. If the rod is a touch small, I just use masking tape to build up the diameter of the rod so that the cap is a firm fit on the end of the rod for turning. I just then put the rod into the lathe chuck for shaping and cutting.

Good luck

[www.google.com]

Rodger, great minds really do think alike. We both use nearly identical methods.

- All the caps that I've recently received from various different rod component suppliers, have internal ribs that run longitudinally, i.e. tip/butt direction.
The lengths / heights of these caps are all about 2". The OD's are all the same, tapered 1 1/4" to 1 3/8". These are available in three or four various ID's between 3/4" to a bit over 1" or so. But they won't work for our application because the wall thicknesses are all the same, too thin at about 0.10" - you'll just sand right through that. The manufacturer achieves different ID's by changing the height of the internal, longitudinal ribs. It doesn't seem to matter who the supplier is, all the caps look like they come out of the same factory.

The old caps had OD's of 1 1/4" . Three or four different ID's were achieved by varying the wall thicknesses from 0.250" to 0.125" or so. The walls were solid with no ribs present, plenty of stock to turn down to 1" OD in some cases if need be.

Thanks for the tip, Rodger. I'll look into those chair leg caps this week. I've all but given up on rod butt caps, it looks like the ones I need have gone extinct.
"For want of a nail the horse went unshod..."

G'Day Robert I use exactly the same as Roger .The only difference is that I use the bottom of the cap is to put the customers initials in using a clear 5 min epoxy adhesive & stick on letters & then cover with another coat of the adhesive .

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia