Am I understanding this right that painting a solid fiberglass rod blank, I just scuff alittle then base coat with white then overspray with color of choice and does this apply to graphite as well.
A flat white I would assume.Then some krylon.

Sort of, but not quite. You can certainly do that but you'll be adding some weight, perhaps a noticeable amount and still won't have the type of durability that the factory finish offered.

If I were going to paint a blank I'd remove all of the old finish entirely, being careful not to harm the blank fibers by sanding or harsh chemicals. Then I'd either have an auto shop hit the blank with a quality urethane or lacking that, coat with the enamel of my choice and then overcoat with something like the Spraymax epoxy that has been discussed here lately.

There's a lot of ways to do what you want to do, but some will provide better and longer lasting results than others.

.................

I've painted a few with krylon and spar urethane over the paint.

Hi Jim,

When painting fiberglass blanks, I do what Tom recommended and remove the orginal paint right back to the original blank. I scrape mine carefully with a sharp edged tool, it does take so time, but it works for me.

I then clean the blank, and apply a coat of primer (white or off white), once dry I then spray the top colour. I use the car paint spray cans. I then let this dry for about a week or two depending on the season I paint the blank, and then put several coats of Permagloss.

When painting graphite blanks, I don't add primer, I just sand, and then follow the steps above.

P.S I find that the metallic colours are much nicer than the non metallic, as they tend to stand out more and look much nicer.

Good, luck with it.

Richard

Thanks so much that helped.
The rod is two sections top half being solid fiberglass and bottom section is graphite epoxied together, it should work very well as a salmon rod or big pike rod.

Solid glass is a lot heavier then graphite

Sounds like it may be tip heavy

Bill - willierods.com

Hi Bill
I thought the same thing, this will be my third build this way and it works great if the weight distrabution is well planned.
I already tested it with a reel and it will be good to go, I will make adjustments if needed as I get to closer to the glueing up stage.
I know this sounds strange but I have extra rod parts laying around that really dont have any use, I start to think they need to have a life too.If it will be a funtional rod its getting wrapped and fished.I cant see hanging on to the extra parts or throwing them out. Land of the Miss fits.
This one should be good for the big chinook kings hear or coho salmon, steelhead or northerns,and the big flatheads we have.Its not high end but its usable.I can make it pretty.
Thanks, Jim

We paint a lot of rods we use epoxy paint that is made for appliance painting I have 5 year old rods that look great. Do not use standard spray paint. Here is all you have to do. First strip the rod and remove all the old paint if any. Whip clean with Acetone do not get your fingers on the blank after the whip down. hold the blank were the grips would go. Sray the blank and let dry a few days so the paint will set up. Now check this out and I wish I could post pics Mud hole sells pigments for flex coat. We do a lot of marbling and colorfull rods. Today I did a sweet yellow and green rod. the blank was black but after I was done not a spec of black could be found.

Richard Khoury Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hi Jim,
>
> When painting fiberglass blanks, I do what Tom
> recommended and remove the orginal paint right
> back to the original blank. I scrape mine
> carefully with a sharp edged tool, it does take so
> time, but it works for me.
>
> I then clean the blank, and apply a coat of primer
> (white or off white), once dry I then spray the
> top colour. I use the car paint spray cans. I then
> let this dry for about a week or two depending on
> the season I paint the blank, and then put several
> coats of Permagloss.
>
> When painting graphite blanks, I don't add primer,
> I just sand, and then follow the steps above.
>
> P.S I find that the metallic colours are much
> nicer than the non metallic, as they tend to stand
> out more and look much nicer.
>
> Good, luck with it.
>
> Richard

Richard,

I don't mean to hijack this thread for the OP but I am currently trying to paint a blank and did exactly what you said here, I let the rod stand for 3 weeks not doing anything to it to make sure that the paint was going to be good and cured. When I went to put the permagloss on it immediately started stripping the paint off on me, you could see very larger brush marks in the paint. Thankfully it was in an area that will be covered by cork so I just stopped there and decided to try and figure out how to solve this problem.

What name paint did you use ??

Bill - willierods.com

Scott Cmelik Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Richard Khoury Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Hi Jim,
> >
> > When painting fiberglass blanks, I do what Tom
> > recommended and remove the orginal paint right
> > back to the original blank. I scrape mine
> > carefully with a sharp edged tool, it does take
> so
> > time, but it works for me.
> >
> > I then clean the blank, and apply a coat of
> prime
> > (white or off white), once dry I then spray the
> > top colour. I use the car paint spray cans. I
> then
> > let this dry for about a week or two depending
> on
> > the season I paint the blank, and then put
> several
> > coats of Permagloss.
> >
> > When painting graphite blanks, I don't add
> primer,
> > I just sand, and then follow the steps above.
> >
> > P.S I find that the metallic colours are much
> > nicer than the non metallic, as they tend to
> stand
> > out more and look much nicer.
> >
> > Good, luck with it.
> >
> > Richard
>
> Richard,
>
> I don't mean to hijack this thread for the OP but
> I am currently trying to paint a blank and did
> exactly what you said here, I let the rod stand
> for 3 weeks not doing anything to it to make sure
> that the paint was going to be good and cured.
> When I went to put the permagloss on it
> immediately started stripping the paint off on me,
> you could see very larger brush marks in the
> paint. Thankfully it was in an area that will be
> covered by cork so I just stopped there and
> decided to try and figure out how to solve this
> problem.
Scott I dont consider it a Hijack as it is information that we all need to know what has happened to you as well.
Jim

How did you prep the blank
Did you prime it and then sand with a fine sandpaper
Then paint

Also what name paint did you use
There are Lacquers and Enamels
The lacquers are better cause they dry fast
But
permagloss is very hot That it adheres to the surface and eats into what ever it is put on
So you have to be Fast when putting it on

Bill - willierods.com

I prepped it by lightly sanding it, rubbing it down with DNA to remove all the dust and then let it sit for a few days (no real reason other than I just didn't get to spraying it). I did not prime it because I didn't want to extra weight of another layer of paint knowing that I would have to probably put on two maybe three layers. The paint I used was not Krylon Fusion, it was a hobby paint by Krylon that is suppose to be usable on wood, ceramic, plastic, etc….I compared what I could to Fusion and it seemed like the exact same stuff just in a different can.

I noticed a few spots that didn't get covered like I thought they did at first so I am going to give it another light coat today and then let it sit again for a week or so. I am tempted to just use the clear coat from Krylon as opposed to permagloss. I think the permagloss will give a better finish but not if its going to take off my current finish at the same time.

I use DupliColor Auto Touchup It has matallics in them Looks nicer
Drys fast Similar to laquer
Don't know the paint you used BUT it may have been a ( fast dry enamel ) Which when coated with Permagloss ( hot ) ate into it Enamals take a long time to fully cure
With permagloss you HAVE TO BE FAST It does take off some DupliColor but just a little

Try pressing your thumb nail into the finish to see if it is soft even after a week

Do a search here on Painting Blanks All Dates You will get a lot of info

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2013 10:44AM by bill boettcher.

Hi Scott,

You need to use Acrylic paints such as the Duipcolor that Bill mentioned. The same thing happened to me when I used Enamel paints under the permagloss.

If you have used Enamel, you will need to remove it again and start over, don't paint over it.

If I can help further let me know.

Good Luck.

richard,

I don't mean to tell you that you're wrong because lord knows you have more experience with rod building than I do but everything I have read on here excluding this thread says to use Krylon Fusion its just as good as anything else and cheaper. Is it the combination of the enamel paint and the permagloss? I have a can of Krylon Fusion clear coat, will that work as well as the permagloss for a clear protective coat?

Tom,
Having a auto body shop spray a rod were am I cost wise compared to out of a can.
Thanks!

Hi Scott,

It is hard for me to get Krylon in Australia, but very easy to get Dupicolor or other automotive paint mixed to my own colours.

Automotive paint is used by many rod builders on this forum with good success, so I wouldn't worry about it not working for you.

When you think about it, automotive paint needs to be; flexible and tough, and work on surfaces such as, metal, fibreglass, plastic and carbon. To date I have not had any issues using it, nor should you. Just make sure you prepare the surface well.

Happy painting,

Richard

Jim Allen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Tom,
> Having a auto body shop spray a rod were am I cost
> wise compared to out of a can.
> Thanks!

Jim,

When you have an auto body paint a rod for you, do you tell them the color you are looking for and then just wait till they have a vehicle in that color or do they take your blank and load up their paint gun and paint it right away for you?

Scott Cmelik Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Jim Allen Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Tom,
> > Having a auto body shop spray a rod were am I
> cost
> > wise compared to out of a can.
> > Thanks!
>
> Jim,
>
> When you have an auto body paint a rod for you, do
> you tell them the color you are looking for and
> then just wait till they have a vehicle in that
> color or do they take your blank and load up their
> paint gun and paint it right away for you?
I havent tried it yet Scott.
The moderator was giving me the advice to have it done that way as to my original posted question.
I was asking another question about cost comparing the two methods out of a can or having a autobody shop do this for me.
I would amagine they could mix up something or aready have something pre made and just paint it,but I am just assuming.
Thanks, Jim