Over the years, I have tried many different methods to get a nice reliable glue joint of the tip to the rod tip, using hot melt glue.
Try to put glue into the tip, cut slivers of glue to put into the tip, etc. etc. etc.

But finally, I came up with such a simple method, I wondered why I had not done it before.

Simply put -
I heat the glue stick, and with the rod rotating on my power wrapper, apply a generous coat of glue to the tip.
I heat the tip, and swipe a bit of glue into the tip from the hot glue stick.
Then, I heat the tip and the glue on the rod tip and push it in place and align it.
I use a craft stick to wipe away any hot glue that may have been pushed up the tip during the installation.
Very reliable and so much easier than trying to put slivers of glue inside the tip top.

Be safe

Roger: Don't feel alone. For over 40 years I shaved stick shellack and its modern equivalents onto a piece of paper and tried to coax the shavings down the barrel of the tip-top. I currently use the same technique as you describe - sans power wrapper. I use a "pencil style" (small, pointy tip) electric soldering iron to heat the tip top and the melt glue. Open flames and the solvents used around rod making don't mix well, and the heat of the electric soldering iron is easier to apply to a small area and regulate than a flame. I have seen rods which broke under strain near the tip-top. I believe the only reason they broke there was that the tip of the blank was weakened by over-heating while the tip-top was being attached.

That works if using the regular FC tip top adhesive, albeit slightly messy but it will pop right off once it dries. If you use a higher temp glue, I have a difficult time getting everything hot enough so that I can align the top on the blank. For years I was using arrow fletching glue, I lost it and haven't replaced it, so I'm using the regular FC stuff, as well as the stuff St Croix uses on their rods.

Billy: Are you certain you were using "arrow fletching glue" to attach tip-tops/? I used to use homemade fletching jigs to attach split turkey feathers to Port Orford White Cedar arrow staves, but I used Duco cement. Back in the day I did use a temperature-sensitive adhesive (stick shellac) to secure nocks , target, and broadheads - but never for fletching.

I forget the name of it, it's been posted a few times. It's the stuff they use to attach arrows to the shaft. I think Browning makes it?

What I have used for many years with great success is a glue gun with Super Hot melt glue. I shoot out lines of glue onto a sheet of plate glass. I can vary the thickness of the lines of glue by how fast I move the gun while squeezing the trigger. When cooled, it is easy to remove from the glass. Then I have a bunch of varying sizes of strips. I cut a size that just fits the tip/top, insert it with about 1/4" sticking out and heat it and slide it on. Quick and easy. I have rods 30 years old that still have very secure tips.

You don't want to use it in this Arizona heat, especially in the summer time, they will come loose. I can definitely speak from experience.

Ron Weber

Ron, you may be right, I primarily make rods for the Pacific Northwet. Although I have made rods for all over the country. If tips came loose I haven't heard about it. Maybe they were taken to a local repair shop if they did.

ROn, the same problem people have in Florida. THat's where I learned about the arrow glue, from a tackle shop (T&R). I assume that you use 5 minute eoxy to affix your tops?

Flex Coat has a video showing exactly what Randolph explains in his post. THe problem with doing it that way is the tip top is hard to handle if you overheat it, and if you don't heat it enough the glue doesn't melt. I do the same thing, except I melt the glue stick with a heat gun and "draw" a line.

Billy, try a glue gun, it allows a better line of glue and you can easily adjust the speed that you "shoot" the glue and make a much more round glue strip, and you are able to get what ever thickness you need. An old trick from an old dog. :>)

And I wouldn't burn my fingers!! lol. Teh arrow glue stick is square and didn't fit in my Mom's glue gun, lol. THank you

Billy, I have made quite a few arrows but I have never tried a glue stick for the fletching, or is the glue stick for the nock or what? For the fletching I always used a tube of adhesive that applied a fine line for the feathers or vinyl substitute. Maybe something new since I haven't made an arrow for a few years. I guess I am lucky to have my own glue gun!! ;>)

[outdoorshopping.com] < WHatever you use this for in archery, is what I was using for tip tops. I've never even seen an arrow in person, I'm regurgitating what people tell me and getting it mixed up. Sorry if it's not fletching glue

Billy, no need to be sorry, I was just trying to find out what the glue was used for on arrows.

Here a while back, I was looking at the videos on Flex Coats web site. Roger Seiders has one on installing tip tops. He extrudes their adhesive through a hot glue gun onto a table top in a thin line. After it cools it is peeled up and cut into short lenghts that just slide into the tip top. He then heats the tip under a flame and installs it. I never thought about the glue gun but it is a good idea.

.....I see this was discussed above..... should have read more carefully, my bad.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/19/2013 08:55PM by James Roper.

The important thing is to get adhesive inside the tiptop tube. From there, make your trim wrap on the rod blank and carry it up and over onto the tiptop tube for about 1/8th to 3/16th inch. Coat with finish epoxy. This locks the top in place regardless of hot weather. If you need to replace the tiptop, you can shave the trim wrap off, heat the tiptop and slide it off.

.......................

Wow, interesting that it is such a problem for so many yet I live in Florida and do leave my rods in my cars for days at a time. I don't use 5 minute epoxy because tip tops can and do break while fishing. I always carry a lighter, cement, and extra tips while fishing. I want them easy to replace.

I don't think I do anything special. I heat the glue stick and smear it around the blank's tip. I heat the glue again and force some inside the tip. Then I hold the tip top and re-heat the tube a bit and push it into place trying to align as well as possible.

After it sets I have a mess to clean up. Between finger nails and sometimes a wrap of thread, I manage. Never had a problem with things coming loose. In most areas I'm a stickler for glue lines but this is one area where I'm not so neat.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

After I was stationed in the Central Valley of California (think Lemoore and Fresno) I quickly learned that for me the tip top glue simply didn't work regardless of how much I got in the tube, how clean I got the blank (razor blade at 90 degrees to remove any possibility of finish on there). I don't put wraps on my tips as I don't care for them or think that they are needed and don't like the extra weight they add in the most crucial part of the rod. I followed otthers advice here and have since used nothing but 5 min epoxy and couldn't be happier. I've never had one come loose and for the ones I broke they quickly came off with simple heat from a cigarette lighter. I bend a paperclip and use it to pull as the heat is applied. works for me.

Tom
GySgt USMC
FINALLY RETIRED

So should we use the specific tiptop hot melt glue as supplied by Flexcoat etc or would any glue stick be ok?
I can get hold of a hobby gun and supplies of the sicks easily and wonder if there is any real difference between them?
Philip

Philip,

Tip top glue is fine for most tops unless it will be exposed to high temps of Southern climates while fishing or if the rod will be kept in a car where it gets overheated. If you worry that it will be exposed to high heat, then use 5min epoxy which is more heat resistant.