Hi everyone

This is my first post. I'm about to wrap my first butt joint rod for GT popping. I just wanted advice on installation. So I'm using EVA grip for the butt grip and a tapering hypalon for the fore grip,
the ID on the hypalon also tapers. I'll have to install from the butt end of the rod because the hypalon tapers from the bottom to the top. There's nothing for the hypalon to slide on for glue to enter the ID prior to gripping the blank. First off I hope this all makes sense, but my question is basically, can anyone please give me advice on this?

Thanks and aloha

Art

Do you mean the guides are on the rod
If not there is no reason to put the butt on from the butt
Butts and seats go on first then the foregrip

Then the guides ???

Bill - willierods.com

Bill, you are not understanding what a "butt joint" rod is.

Arturo, they aren't as common over here. I have never built one. Maybe someone who has will help. I wonder why you couldn't put the sections together and slip the grips down from the top as you would with a 1 piece rod? If need be put some epoxy inside the grip also. After you are done, remove the top section and clean up any epoxy (and/or cover it with masking tape first to make clean up easier).

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

I think Russell's advice is best, if you can make it work.

Otherwise, it is possible to temporarily sleeve the butt end with a blank, in the opposite direction of taper, so you can slide the grip up and onto the blank butt without having to pull it over a large, sharp edge.

...................

Russell Brunt Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Bill, you are not understanding what a "butt
> joint" rod is.
>
> Arturo, they aren't as common over here. I have
> never built one. Maybe someone who has will help.
> I wonder why you couldn't put the sections
> together and slip the grips down from the top as
> you would with a 1 piece rod? If need be put some
> epoxy inside the grip also. After you are done,
> remove the top section and clean up any epoxy
> (and/or cover it with masking tape first to make
> clean up easier).

Since the hypalon tapers it won't slide down the "traditional" way from the tip top down. Thanks though!

Oh that hypalon will stretch a ton. Don't worry about that. Just make sure to get some epoxy inside the grip to act as a lube/gap filler. Or do it as Tom suggests. In a pinch I have whittled a wood dowel to fit inside the butt end of the rod (and made a tip on it). If you can just get the end of the grip over the butt of the blank and use compressed air to "inflate" the grip, you can push it up the butt end easily. Trick we used to use when we had to replace a reel seat/rear grip and didn't want to re-wrap guides. Lots of ways to do it. Big thing is once you get started DON'T stop till it is all the way on!

But again, I haven't built one and am assuming the butt end of the rod isn't a lot smaller than the female part (at the tip side of the foregrip).

P.S. Envy you. Every member of the jack family I have caught have been great fighters....and GT's are some of the biggest ones around. I hear they approach 80kg in some waters and 40-50kg are common in your waters. Man what a fight that must be!!! I shouldn't complain as we have amberjack but they don't hit surface poppers as a rule.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

I don't know what blank you have, but the butt section of the Black Hole 80N I am doing now is the same OD, top to bottom.

Sorry

I have no idea what you guys are talking about

Sounds like you need to Ream the hypolon to fit the blank it is going on Or change the taper to fit

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/06/2013 07:55PM by bill boettcher.

Arturo, are you building something like a Race Point blank? That is a common GT spinning.
They have the ferule part thicker than the butt. A challenge indeed if you are used to normal blank shapes.....

Take a round file/reamer and for the first 5 or 6 mm inside the opening of the hypalon that will land up nearest the ferule make a 45 degree sanded slope/face.You can do some more than that too, it wont hurt to go more at a shallower angle.
Liberally smear the first two or so inches of the butt with an epoxy and have at it.
That slope in the hypalon will pick up the bead of epoxy and feed it under to act as lube.
Have lots of cleaning material on hand, a good firm surface to push against while slipping that grip on and do NOT stop when you get it going or you will need to cut it off and do it again.

Bill, the blank has a female ferrule that is intended to be right under the end of the foregrip. The front 2/3rds of the rod has a male end that mates to that ferrule (think uni-butt without collet/locking nut). On most blanks it is the same diameter from butt to ferrule as Craig stated. On some, the ferrule is reinforced and bigger than the butt like Lou said.

Rest assured you will be seeing more of these blanks as serious vertical jigging/popping and demand for 2pc blanks increases.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Russell Brunt Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Oh that hypalon will stretch a ton. Don't worry
> about that. Just make sure to get some epoxy
> inside the grip to act as a lube/gap filler. Or
> do it as Tom suggests. In a pinch I have whittled
> a wood dowel to fit inside the butt end of the rod
> (and made a tip on it). If you can just get the
> end of the grip over the butt of the blank and use
> compressed air to "inflate" the grip, you can push
> it up the butt end easily. Trick we used to use
> when we had to replace a reel seat/rear grip and
> didn't want to re-wrap guides. Lots of ways to do
> it. Big thing is once you get started DON'T stop
> till it is all the way on!
>
> But again, I haven't built one and am assuming the
> butt end of the rod isn't a lot smaller than the
> female part (at the tip side of the foregrip).
>
> P.S. Envy you. Every member of the jack family I
> have caught have been great fighters....and GT's
> are some of the biggest ones around. I hear they
> approach 80kg in some waters and 40-50kg are
> common in your waters. Man what a fight that must
> be!!! I shouldn't complain as we have amberjack
> but they don't hit surface poppers as a rule.

This is pretty much what I was thinking about doing as far as getting a wooden dowel or smaller diameter pvc just to get the hypalon to slide into the butt end of the blank easier.

I am located in Hawaii and that's all I do here as my free-time, and that is hunting for GT's. I catch them on bait as well, but it doesn't even come close to the excitement of seeing

those gorillas just break surface and just obliterate the poppers and it's even a special treat if you see them following the popper from the moment the popper lands on the water

to the moment you see them right in front of your face.

Lou Auret Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Arturo, are you building something like a Race
> Point blank? That is a common GT spinning.
> They have the ferule part thicker than the butt. A
> challenge indeed if you are used to normal blank
> shapes.....
>
> Take a round file/reamer and for the first 5 or 6
> mm inside the opening of the hypalon that will
> land up nearest the ferule make a 45 degree
> sanded slope/face.You can do some more than that
> too, it wont hurt to go more at a shallower
> angle.
> Liberally smear the first two or so inches of the
> butt with an epoxy and have at it.
> That slope in the hypalon will pick up the bead of
> epoxy and feed it under to act as lube.
> Have lots of cleaning material on hand, a good
> firm surface to push against while slipping that
> grip on and do NOT stop when you get it going or
> you will need to cut it off and do it again.


The racepoint was a blank I wanted to get, but they don't have it locally here in Hawaii. This also was what I intended to do. I basically wanted to hear what I was thinking about doing, just in case someone otherwise didn't suggest . Thanks!

You have received lots of good advice.
The only thing that I might add is that you may want to slip a cork or plug into the handle to guard against epoxy getting into the female section of the handle.

Best wishes on your build.

Don Becker