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Thread bleeding problems
Posted by:
Paul Asbell
(---.phnx.qwest.net)
Date: August 30, 2013 08:59PM
On occasion I have had instances where after applying epoxy, to Gudebrod thread mostly used, The thread will look what appears to have bled through, causing color blotch's. It happens on Chestnut brown / Medium and light Greys or Goldenrod / and some darker colors as well.
I can not for the life of me figure it out. I have tried to keep my hands very clean from impurities while touching the thread. I have changed epoxy brands, I have tried to make sure my threads our all packed tightly and burnished well, and I also use 2-3 coats of color preserver prior to application. On my last rod, I used a Medium Grey on a Thomas and Thomas blank that was a gloss slate grey, with a black metallic trim band. I used Diamond II epoxy. I made sure to try to get color preserver in the pockets by the guides, thinking that would help, but not this time. Some of my thread is older than 5 years now, can it go bad? Should I replace it? I am at a loss as to why it happens, and how to prevent it, I am even thinking of changing brands of thread entirely. Thanks for your help. Re: Thread bleeding problems
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: August 30, 2013 09:10PM
Most often, such problems come about from a failure to pack the threads tightly against each other. If you look at the wrap under magnification you'll most likely see the minute gaps and spaces between the threads in those areas where the color turned dark.
The epoxy wasn't the problem (current Diamond II is repackaged Envirotex craft epoxy, which has been around a long time). Color preserver shouldn't be thinned or you'll be putting mostly water on the wraps. Two wet coats should be sufficient. It's not your thread, it's most likely your thread packing. Look at it closely and see if you can observe what I wrote about above. .............. Re: Thread bleeding problems
Posted by:
Paul Asbell
(---.phnx.qwest.net)
Date: August 30, 2013 10:41PM
Thank you for the suggestions, I will on my next attempt to be sure to pack the threads more carefully. I always thought I was doing this from the beginning, but it appears I may not be packing tight enough. Is it still necessary to burnish after packing then?
I use a power wrapper, but even after starting my thread, after a few winds, I stop and take my burnishing tool and pack the threads in while rotating by hand. I do this most of the way, and even up to just before the start of the foot climbing and on into completion. I don't thin my color preserver at all, and sometimes I wonder if it isn't a saturation problem getting into the thread all the way. Re: Thread bleeding problems
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: August 31, 2013 07:18AM
Take a close look at the blotchy thread areas under magnification. Now if you don't see those minute gaps and spaces I mentioned above, it's time to look at something else.
................... Re: Thread bleeding problems
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: August 31, 2013 08:36AM
Paul,
Do some test wraps with no color preserver and see if the problem persists. If you do your wrapping by holding the thread at about a 10-20 degree angle, you normally don't need to pack or burnish the thread at all. Be safe Re: Thread bleeding problems
Posted by:
Paul Asbell
(---.phnx.qwest.net)
Date: August 31, 2013 12:44PM
Tom Kirkman Wrote:
------------------------------------------------------- > Take a close look at the blotchy thread areas > under magnification. Now if you don't see those > minute gaps and spaces I mentioned above, it's > time to look at something else. > > ................... Thanks Tom, I will do that as soon as I start another application batch and if it reoccurs. Re: Thread bleeding problems
Posted by:
Paul Asbell
(---.phnx.qwest.net)
Date: August 31, 2013 12:47PM
Thanks Roger, I try sometimes to keep the thread at an angle by keeping the tray slightly back and left of dead center. Re: Thread bleeding problems
Posted by:
Randolph Ruwe
(---.hsd1.wa.comcast.net)
Date: August 31, 2013 03:51PM
Are you using regular or NCP thread? If it is regular, you will most definitely need to use a good CP. Some are much better than others. You will also need to saturate the thread on the first coat, then when finished from one end of the rod to the other, go back and wick off any excess so that it doesn't dry thicker in one area than another. Then when fully dry, put on your second coat and repeat the process. Your problem should go away. If using NCP thread you may not need CP, but I use it anyway just as a precaution. Re: Thread bleeding problems
Posted by:
chip burdick
(---.twcny.res.rr.com)
Date: August 31, 2013 07:45PM
Does burnishing help this? I burnish my wraps and sometimes I get bleed through even with color preserver. I will have to pay better attention to my wraps. Time for stronger glasses,lol. Re: Thread bleeding problems
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: August 31, 2013 08:19PM
Burnishing can help close gaps, but it's not exactly a substitute for good, consistent and tightly packed wraps.
............... Re: Thread bleeding problems
Posted by:
John Cates
(---.lightspeed.austtx.sbcglobal.net)
Date: September 01, 2013 10:17AM
How old is your color preserver? It can go bad over time especially if it is allowed to freeze. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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