With the recent questions about mixing rod coating finish by weight, rather than volume - I sent an e-mail request to Flex Coat to request the correct mass weight ratio of mixing part A to part B by weight.

This was Craig's (from Flex coat) reply.

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The ratio is 1 part of Part A to .838 part of Part B. ie 10 grams of Part A to 8.38 grams of Part B. Hope this makes sense and helps you out.


Craig

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So, you need to multiply your part B weights by .838 to mix the correct quantity of A and B of the flex coat finishing epoxy when using a scale to measure the quantities of mix.

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If you want to measure other manufacturers epoxy finish by weight than volume; contact them for the correct mass weight ratio.

Take care
Roger

Why bother
using the syringes is sooo much easier
IMHO there will be posts here of builders having undried finish

Bill - willierods.com

Bill,
Agree 100%, but a builder wanted to mix by mass weight, so these are the correct instructions.

I am just thinking if many try it there will be a LOT of posts ??? LOL

Bill - willierods.com

I am not well enough versed in math to do it by weight and mass. I first started using syringes 40 years ago and have never had a problem. How much time a person wants to spend calculating and weighing is up to them. I have better things to do. Now I have to go out and take the garbage to the curb for pick-up. ;>)

Same here
All that does is make mixing more Complicating
I like the KISS method

Bill - willierods.com

I would like to say thank you to Roger for going to the trouble of finding out the truth of weighing epoxy. Good information in case I every need it.

If you mix by weight
I hope it all goes well ????

Bill - willierods.com

This information would be more valuable for measuring a paste epoxy. Thankfully, the mix can be off a bit and it will still work fine.

I agree with Mel. I am not a fan of paste epoxy. It doesn't flow for one thing, and I like epoxy to flow when I am sliding a reel seat across the bushing, and to flow into the gaps between the bushings, so that I can fill that gap and make sure the bottom of the bushing is covered in epoxy. I hate quick cure epoxies because you don't have enough time to do this slowly, and complete and accurate like it should be done. Using an epoxy glue that flows, in all the 43 years I have been making rods, I have never had one returned due to a reel seat the came loose. Or for any other problem related to the way I built the rod.

Most of the paste epoxies have a much greater margin for error than the liquid types we use on our wrapping threads. For instance, Rod Bond can be mixed in a ratio of 60/40 and still set and cure perfectly with no loss of strength or durability.

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I've just been working on my first carbon fiber skinned grip with Riley Rods epoxy which has a 2:1 ratio by weight (and volume, interestingly) and using the scale from them as well. I have to admit it is pretty easy and foolproof. Easier than syringes due to the lower viscosity of the epoxy which essentially measures having to wait for bubbles to clear. With 2:1 it's easy to do the calculations in the head and handling just one item instead of two for each component is simpler than syringes. Wouldn't be that clean with 1:.838. I'm sure I'd screw that up.