Call me all thumbs, but there must be a proven way to hold small single-foot guides (6mm and smaller) tightly on a blank so the thread will climb on to the foot. The only thing I've found is to use a narrow strip of masking tape, less than 1/8th inch. Problem is, when working toward the tip, where the blank diameter is nearly the same as guide foot width, the tape doesn't hold the guide tight enough and the thread either won't climb, or it moves the guide from its intended position. Is there a proven approach?

Also, exactly how is the guide foot prepared for wrapping?

Would appreciate suggestions.

I've started using the smallest zip ties available. They work well.

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

You could glue them in place with the guide adhesive. I can not get them straight enough. I use the small rubber bands for braces. Just wrap them around the blank 2,3,4,5 times as the blank gets smaller and roll them in place. I use two for each foot, one close to the tip of the foot and one towards the guide. Then cust them off as you reach them. You might have to adjust the guide slightly but gets close enough.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Steve Hartzell Wrote:
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> I've started using the smallest zip ties
> available. They work well.

The zip ties do work until you reach or very close to the tip on light weight rods. Then the zip tie won't go small enough because of the tight bend in the tie is too large not making a good fit with the blank.

Try using elastic thread. It works like a small rubber band. Just make several wraps around the blank, pull tight and tie off. Then slide you guide foot under, adjust and tie off.

Buy several different sizes of tiny elastic bands, like used for dental braces. Slip on as many as needed plus a couple more onto a rod before placing the guides on the rod. Then, just slip the band over the guide, position as needed and wrap. As you get 1/2 way up the guide foot, use a sharp pair of side cutters to cut the band off the blank. You can search the on-line @#$%& sites for inexpensive small bands. They normally come in packs of 500 or so for a couple of $$.

For example:
[www.google.com]

and:
[sale-fire.com]



[www.rodbuilding.org]

But before starting the wrap, use a method of your choice to insure that the guide foot has been prepped and is nice and thin. With a thin end on the guide foot, the thread wraps easily onto the guide foot. To hold the guide for prepping, I just use a machine screw of the appropriate size for the guide. I grind the head of the machine screw nearly off, so that there is no screw head protruding from the end of the guide foot. Then, I cut a piece of blank section of the appropriate size to a length that makes the fixture easy to hold and of a length so that when a wing nut is put onto the machine screw, only one or two turns are required to get the screw tight. You don't want to spend all day putting the nut on and off when you are doing many guides.

I then use a 1X30 inch belt sander with about 150 grit paper on the sander. This gives a nice finish, with small perpendicular grooves in the surface which really help to hold the thread securely.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.harborfreight.com]



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/03/2013 11:12AM by roger wilson.

The absolute best method to attach guides is to use elastic beading thread. Comes in .5mm to 1mm. Get the .5mm in craft stores like Michaels and Joannes.
Hold the guide in place and wrap the thad under tension. Then finish with two overhand knots. You can move guides to align. You can even cast.
I don't like a machine to grind feet. Have a Dremel with a foot peddle to adjust speed. Never use it any longer. Too much heat. Have ruined guides.
I use a diamond Ezlap in medium. I then de-burr and polish with 400grit wet and dry.
Herb

Herb,

Can you explain what a Exlap in is? I did a search and for tools that sharpen cutting edges, is this what you use? Can you please provide us with a model number or a little better description?

Thanks

Chester

May your line be tight and your beverages be cold!

Just file the foot thin enough to get the thread to flow up the guide foot. A piece of surgical tubing and you are done.

Lone Wolf Rods
"Keep your powder dry and your lines wet"
God Bless

I use the simular method that Herb uses but it is a clear elastic from the craft store and I make a loop then thread two to four seed beads over both tag ends and use them to cinch it up enough to hold, its been working for me so far when theres enough thread wrapped I pull the beads off.
I tried the masking tape for a long time and it became a problem for me. I will still use it if it a better option the great thing is there are many options and I will use anyone of them if needed.

I use a hand held Dremel tool with either fine or med. grit sanding disks and I have never had a problem getting a nicely formed foot. Sometimes if I am not going to use CP, and have a black or colored guide and don't want to have the finish on top of the foot damaged, I use a coarse Cratex bit that fits the contour of the bottom of the guide foot and thin the foot from the bottom. Cratex abrasive is a rubber bit that is impregnated with grit, from ultra fine to coarse and is available in kit form from Brownells.

Herb,
What is your reason to polish the guide foot.
A polished guide foot is much more slippery than a sanded guide foot.
By leaving the horizontal sanding scratches on the guide foot, the guide foot holds the thread much better.

Be safe

I must say that I agree with Roger. After the foot is properly formed, there is no need to polish it.

Modified alligator clips and clothes pins with their jaws slightly grooved work well for me to hold guides temporarily in place for wrapping.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Try it this way' Works for me. And I have FAT fingers (Image 421 is first)

[s257.photobucket.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/03/2013 04:41PM by Barry Thomas Sr.

Barry Thomas Sr Wrote:
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> Try it this way' Works for me. And I have FAT
> fingers (Image 421 is first)
>
> [s257.photobucket.com]
> /Micro%20Wrap?sort=3&page=1

I like this idea, very innovated. I might have to try this one on my next build.

Very good idea. I have been using 30 lb mono with a uni knot,around the blank. Place guides in loop and tighten down the uni knot.

I'm a guide foot adhesive guy. Just heat the foot with a flame (after proper prepping as the previous posts suggest) and drag it over the end of the adhesive. Line it up and hold it down until the adhesive cools and wrap away. It's a weak adhesive so the guide will move after wrapping if alignment is needed.

Terry

G'Day Phil I use a girls hair band with a bead to hold my guides'With small guides I place one loop behind the guide & this gives the guide support & prevents it moving away from the wrapping thread .I use a bench grinder to prepare the guide feet & there is a water container close by to prevent overheating .Like Herb I also use a diamond EZYLAP to remove any burrs from the grinding unlike Herb I don't polish the foot


[www.rodbuilding.org]

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

Why I "polish" - buff really - my guide feet. Because I use size "00" thread for my running guides on all my fly rods. If the feet are not as smooth as possible it frays the thread while being packed.
Herb