Using Madeira Polyneon 40 with ChromaSeal CP. Intend to finish with Flex Coat. Two questions - how many coats of CP and, how long to dry before applying the Flex Coat?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/26/2013 08:56AM by Phil Hageman.

I use ChromaSeal with Maderia a lot.

I put on 3 coats, and allow the last one to dry overnight or all day. I have never had a problem with fisheyes. Two just does not seem to be enough for me.

Bert Nagy

G'Day Phil I also use Chromaseal on Polyneon & have done for a number of years without any problems but I only use 2 coats & have never had any fish eyes & I let dry overnight between coats .

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

Phil,
I use U40 CP with that thread. Two good soaking coats, dry time for the second coat is 10 hours. Then I am confident I can apply finish with no problems.

Thanks guys, appreciate the good advice - gets my feet on the ground. Did a two-axis (0 and 180 degree) pinwheel dec wrap on this rod, plus it's my first time with Polyneon, so I don't want to take any chances - will apply three coats CP. Again, thanks for the help.

I haven't used Madeira Polyneon yet but I have seen it suggested to put a few of the cut-off threads of the polyneon into the mixed epoxy and stir around a bit as a way to minimize fisheye. But it maybe that multiple coats of CP and allowing time for full dry is a way to go.

What is your reason to use more than one coat?

Lots of folks - including myself - only use one coat with 0 issues.

Roger, I thought you have been saying that you don't use CP at all? :>)

Randy,
I seldom use CP, but if I do, I only use one coat.
As I have said before, I only use CP, if the client asks for it.

Be safe

I know Roger, I was just teasing you a little bit.

Just for Ho Ho's i put mine on a turning rod Ya get more of an even coat
Put a coat on let it soak in Maybe 30 min Depends on temp Then on A one more You will be able to see that the second coat covers well and tends to look like finish Let dry overnight Then finish

On a butt wrap -- You will probable be better off with Three

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/26/2013 04:45PM by bill boettcher.

If you use one coat of CP on a Dec Wrap you WILL have blotches/discoloration. YOu might get lucky and get a perfect color retention, but I guarantee if you use 1 coat of CP on your DW's you're gonna make a mistake one day and end up with blotches. I use 2 coats, but you need to figure out how many you need yourself. For me, the second coat is a protection against any spots that I missed the first time, and/or that soaked in and didn't seal the thread enough.

As far as when to apply finish, you need ot know when the CP dries. I have waited as little as an hour with no problems at all. I know the wraps a few weeks ago that I posted pics of - the CP was taking 3 hours to dry because it was unbelievably humid. Err on the side of waiting longer than you have to Post pics of the wrap too..

One coat is usually enough on guide wraps. More than two is not at all necessary (unless you're one of those that heavily thins the product and ends up putting mostly just water on the thread).

For that reason, two wet coats a few hours apart is enough to be safe, but not so many that you'll have any problems.

Allow to dry at least overnight, 24 hours is even better, but not absolutely necessary.

............

If you thin it at least Three coats

Bill - willierods.com

While people do it, there is no reason to have to thin any of the CP's available on the market. They all work as good as they are going to work without needed to be thinned.

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
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> One coat is usually enough on guide wraps. More
> than two is not at all necessary (unless you're
> one of those that heavily thins the product and
> ends up putting mostly just water on the thread).

I'm guilty as charged here ... I thin the heck out of it.

I usually do 3 coats but to be totally honest what I use is a Melamine and Vinyl Adhesive.

Same stuff I use for gluing my bark rings and my inlays together just not thinned for this purpose.

Ed Hickl Wrote:
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> I haven't used Madeira Polyneon yet but I have
> seen it suggested to put a few of the cut-off
> threads of the polyneon into the mixed epoxy and
> stir around a bit as a way to minimize fisheye.
> But it maybe that multiple coats of CP and
> allowing time for full dry is a way to go.


I always mix in some of the madeira thread with the epoxy when I use chromaseal cp on Madeira threads in my weaves to prevent fisheye contamination. And when i apply heat to the finish with an alcohol torch/lamp,,,, i never get any contamination.

Jersey, Channel Islands. (U.K.)

Billy, the only reason to thin the CP is if it is older and starting to thicken. I have had this happen, I also have some Flex coat CP from 30 years ago that is still good.. Matter of fact, I just used it on a rod and it worked great. I didn't have to do any thinning.

If it's old, spend $2 for a new bottle. I'mnot giving advice to 1 or 2 people, but making a genreal recommendation for all those that are going to read this and really not know what they are doing. The problem with a lot of these recommendations is that they do work for individuals, but there aren't specific instructions or hands on tutorials showing how to do it. IE...telling someone to thin their CP - should they be thinning with lighter fluid? How much should they thin? It's BAD ADVICE. Use the product as it was formulated, practice and understand what YOU NEED TO DO to get it to work, and stick with it/ Do not rely on internet people who you never met, who you never seen a rod they built - for accurate info. You're asking for a mess that took you many hours to complete and botch/butcher.

Hi Phil,
I also use a lot of madeira thread, on guides wraps as well and only ever had one problem. I also use three coats of chromaseal and let the last one dry overnight. I find it's better to be safe than sorry. Never had a fisheye and get spool colours.
As for putting madeira thread in the finish mix to prevent fisheyes it works but the lighter colours will turn translucent without cp, the darker ones remain fairly unchanged. As for thinning cp never done it and wouldn't suggest it for madeira. When I first started using madeira I was using a watery cp and that gave "blotchy" colour with the blank showing through. I changed to the much thicker chromaseal and have never had a problem since.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia