So i hope this will be more brief than past threads. I am painting blanks right now and they are coming out very nice. Except i just got home and one blank i painted, which i wrapped two guides on, is having problems. The paint right next to the the wraps on the left of them is warped looking. It looks like is was pushed. it is about 3 or 4 'waves" like an accordion. very strange indeed. any thoughts on what could cause this? the blank was painted over two weeks ago so it should have dried by now. It has been in the 90's in the basement where it is could it have melted? any ideas wouod be greatly appreciated as always.

You probably won't be happy with rattle can paint jobs in the long run. You need a paint that can withstand the heat of applying Perma-Gloss as a clear coat. There is also a relatively new product called "Formula D" which is not supposed to be as hot. Search YouTube. Also there's lots of help about painting in archives.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/08/2013 07:23PM by Mike Adams.

ok i am sorry i need to be way more specific. I am using an HVLP gun and shooting house of color paint and clear coat. I am using two coats of bc-02 silver and then three coats of intercoat clear mixed with kandy koncentrate then three clear coats. sorry i should have stated that from the beginning

Too me it sounds like to many coats Too much material it may be that and then if you did not use a SLOW Reducer moisture may have gotten trapped in the paint

Take a nail and try to dent the paint If it does it is not hard

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/09/2013 08:29AM by bill boettcher.

Hum... I am using the medium reducer called ru311 should I use a slow I think that's for over 90 degrees. At the time I painted it was 75 degrees out

Did you weigh that blank before you painted it 8 coats of material Way to much If you mixed it according to the directions on the cans Probably too thick You are not painting a car

Bill - willierods.com

If its just one small area on one rod and everything else is ok it could be some contamination such as grease or oil that caused the problem. It doesn't take much to cause the finish to fisheye up. After or as you apply the finish are you leaving the rod turn on a drier? could just be too much material in one area causing the finish to sag. I also agree with Bill that you are putting way too much finish on.That much finish is going to take a long time for the solvents to completely evaporate if you have no way to bake the rod.. If you didn't use a flex additive it may start to crack. I work in a body shop but am not familiar with the house of color paints. Every paint manufacturer has their own procedures. Could you post a photo so we can see exactly what your talking about?
Tony

A pretty rod is nice But will not Perform as well as a blank With Nothing On It ( bare )

I use DupliColor ( rattle can ) auto colors Well prep the blank One maybe two coats Enough to cover the blank color
There is also a Adhesion Permotor that can be sprayed on then color
Then color 1 2 coats just to cover Then 24 hrs dry time one or two coats of permagloss or LumiSeal

A lot thinner coating and a @#$%& of a lot cheaper

IMHO

Bill - willierods.com

i uploaded a pic of the problem on under misc b/c i didnt know what else to put it under. cant miss it. its a purple blank with chartreuse underwrap. thanks again all

Ok I think I know what the problem is. I used a plastic primer I think. That caused the paint on another blanks paint to wrinkle. Why the paint only started to wrinkle when I put the hok paint over it.
That being said is paint stripper safe to use on a rod blank? Or should I just wet sand it all off? I read an awesome artical by Ralph O'Quinn that explains in great detail why not to use acetone.
Finally, these are very thin coats of paint. I would doubt that all eight coats would equal more than 2mil in height. There is a slight difference in weight from the unfinished blank but not as bad as one would think.

Hmm,

I would agree with Bill boettcher on this one too much finish. If you're using an HVLP gun to spray it on, I would recommend changing the tip size to the smallest you can go with that gun. I would also reduce the guns volume and airflow to a minimum. Putting too much on will cause this ripple effect as well as using too much reducer. Take a dip stick and do a drip test before for consistency or viscosity. Dripping of the stick to fast means to much reducer! I am amazed you don't have an issue with this more often using a full HVLP auto spray gun! Hope this helps good luck !

Rick H.

rwheil@msn.com

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I am using a detail or "jam" gun. The gun I used had a .6 needle which is the only one I comes with and I think that's as small as they get. I think this is an adhesion problem and the paint is slipping because it has not bonded to primer. That being said I'm probably wrong.

Did you go to a Auto Body Supply store that sells to auto body shops looks like some think is not compatible or some thing trapped in the finish

Will it dent with your thumb nail ? Still soft if it does

This is why I like DupliColor Easy cheep and I can clear it with permagloss

Bill - willierods.com

SEM makes a stripper for automotive buumper covers. Comes in an aerosol can. Used it many times in the past with no damage to the blanks. Actually did a demo of it at a nerbs gathering a couple of years ago. Should be available at any autobody supply store.
Tony

That's awesome. Thanks for your help. I had heard you did a presentation at a NERBS gathering. I wish I had been there. I am only using "so much material" because I paint candy. Silver, tinted transparent mid coat, and then clear. I usually only do two base and three clear. Thanks for the tip with the sem stripper.

Mike

I guess you have been painting cars for a long time and know a lot of how to put paint on Thin coats Thick coats when needed Blending colors

How long have you worked in body shops ??

Bill - willierods.com

Hi Bill
I have never worked in a body shop or painted a car in my life. I bought all this equipment to paint blanks exclusively. As I am a fan of some off the wall colors, I had to go hvlp over spray can for color options. For example, I don't want blue, I want ocean Maui cloud mid-pacific blue. I did use tamiya paint and spray max over that and that came out great. Only problem is spray max is 20 dollars a bottle and 5 to ship. It can only coat maybe two rods. A quart of hok uk35 clear is like 90 with the catalyst but can coat many more rods and some feel a better clear coat than spraymax.
The people at the auto suppy store feel the primer I used caused the wrinkling paint. Also they said b/c I don't know what I'm doing I shouldn't mix brands of paint. Honestly I think primer is a waste of time anyway. As most blanks I'm painting already have paint on them I think they don't really need primer.

First

I would not want to cast any of these rods You are taking a rod that has (

Since i can not get rid of this
have fun painting blanks

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/15/2013 03:34PM by bill boettcher.

Well that's funny because these rods are never casted at all. I am in the northeast where we use a highly scientific method of tying on a sinker and hook and dropping bait to the bottom where hopefully something eats it.
One day I will get a digital scale and weight the difference between painted and unfinished blanks. Then this issue if weight will be, at least for me, put to rest.

Quick Follow up Sorry been out for a bit.

I just read the thread fully Mike. Primer is your culprit ! In my application process I do not use a primer coat ! I use Perma Gloss for my choice of finish. Colors are not an issue for me with any rod and one 4oz bottle dose 5 rods for me depending on length 4 rods. Being cost effective and efficient with materials is important to be cost effective for painting your own blanks. I recommend removing the primer process your just adding weight and a unneeded process that will most likely cause you this problem again and remove an unnecessary prep before final finish. Scuffing a blank is more than enough to create a adhesive surface adequate for the types of finish your going to use. Hope this helps Good luck !

Rick H.

rwheil@msn.com

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