I got the Clemens I asked about earlier for so little I almost feel like I stole it, not that I'm complaining. It needs some work, most of which I think I can take care of myself. I need some help, though. The motor doesn't come on, but it, the wiring, pedal, and switch all look pretty ancient. I have another option for a motor already, if this one wont come to life.

There's a part I can't figure out. It's a small rectangular aluminum piece the same dimensions as the track connector. It only has one small threaded hole dead center, though, where the connector has two. Two larger pieces are for attaching the bed to the bench. Can't figure out this other small piece.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

The chuck is pretty rusted, almost looks like it's been painted brown. Still opens and closes smoothly, though. Can I clean it with some WD40 and fine grit sandpaper, or will that muck up the innards? Should I just leave it alone?

[www.rodbuilding.org]


[www.rodbuilding.org]

I'd like to get the pulley off the shaft, so I can pull the bearings, open them up, clean them out, and re-pack them. It turns okay, but I can hear the balls turning, and I'd like to get it all set to right before I try it out. Don't have any wedges to pop the pulley off, though, and I don't want to damage it. Any suggestions? Also, no indexing pin, and the pulley's not drilled for it anyway. How much do folks use that feature?

Neither Lowe's nor HD had large enough o-rings for the one rod support I have. The old ones are missing. Anybody know what size I need? Would prefer not to pay Renzetti's price for replacement and shipping. Hardware stores are all closed today.

I'll posy some pics here in a few minutes. Thanks in advance for your help.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/04/2013 04:13PM by Kevin Kelly.

Per your photo:

1. Bottom mounting plate - goes in middle of two sections.
2. Joins bed sections together just under the top surfaces.
3. Bottom mounting plate - goes at one end.
4. Bottom mounting plate - goes at other end.

...............

The Renzetti "O" rings don't work on the Clemens rollers, they are thinner. Use fine 0000 steel wool to clean up your chuck, not sand paper. WD 40 should work fine for this. The holes at the ends of your lathe bed is where the rectangular piece goes to anchor the lathe bed to your work bench. There should be a set screw in the pulley wheel that can be loosened with the proper size allen wrench so that it can be removed. The indexing pin only came on later models and is not a necessity but can at times be useful. If you have a Grainger store near you check with them for the "O" rings they may be able to help. Or you can go on line to check. You will just need the dia. and thickness you need.

The chuck can be cleaned to almost new condition. Take a allen wrench and remove the three aluminum jaws first ---- easier not having to work around them. I would use a wire brush first then move on to a medium emory cloth with a light machine oil. You should find some machine marks/lines that go around the chuck -- you will remove more rust and crud if you brush and sand following the lines. The cleaning process will go quicker if you put it on the headstock and spin it with the motor -- SLOWLY -- . Once clean, use metal polish on it. Also, the chuck can be taken apart to clean.

In addition to Doug's comments, if possible avoid using any abrasive on the slots and grooves in the chuck.
Each of the jaws are hand fit to the chuck, and if you remove any material, you make the fit of the chuck less than perfect.

I clean up chucks like this all of the time, and after removing the jaws, just put the chuck on the head stock and spin it at top speed, using fine sandpaper.
I like to start with 600 grit, and only go coarser if necessary. I also use wd-40 at the same time to carry away the grit and sanding dust.

Then, apply a bit of polishing rouge - first red, then white and you will be able to see your self in the chuck surface.

After everything has been well cleaned, use a light oil, like Automatic Transmission fluid - which does not oxidize, as you reassemble the chuck. You will need to put jaw 1, in slot one etc.

If you have bearings that are making noise, I would suggest that you replace the bearings. If the bearings are noisy, it is nearly certain that there is rust on the bearings.

Just take a bearing to a bearing supply house and buy as many bearings as you need. Normally, most bearings in this size range will only be 2 or $3 each.

If you have issues in getting the bearings out, just take the shaft etc. to the bearing supply house and they can both remove the bearings, as well as properly size the new bearing for you.

After all - a bearing is a bearing is a bearing.
A motor is a motor is a motor.

The chuck that you use is the Taig chuck that is readily available from any Taig parts supply house.

[www.taigtools.com]

This link, is for the chuck with the 3/4 - 16 threads. Double check the head stock on your lathe to verify that those threads are the correct ones.
If you want spare jaws, the link above will give you those jaws.

Be safe

Do NOT use Silicone. Use Nitrile or Viton the other is "BUNA" do not know about these. But someone here will! If you find the Right ones maybe we can get a Group buy to save $$$. Billy Vivona and a Group from a N.E. fishing site / rodboard got a large quanity that way for a Group of People.

[www.gallagherseals.com]

[www.theoringstore.com]



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/04/2013 07:21PM by Barry Thomas Sr.

I have hundreds of Clemens Orings that both Bernies left behind when they passed. I do not have any more of the Nitrile o-rings.

Billy, I could use 6 of them. Let me know the price w/shipping. rjruwe2@comcast.net

Billy; Do you remember the size of those nitrile O rings

Billy,
Would you happen to have the base part to one of the Clemens rod holders? I have been looking for these for sometime. This is the part that the standing arm is connected to. Thanks.

Pat Barnard

Kevin Kelly Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The chuck is pretty rusted, almost looks like it's
> been painted brown. Still opens and closes
> smoothly, though. Can I clean it with some WD40
> and fine grit sandpaper, or will that muck up the
> innards? Should I just leave it alone?

Kevin ... you can use Wd-40 but I wouldn't use sandpaper but 0000 steel wool.

Do you have a Harbor Freight around you? This stuff (Evapo-Rust) is biodegradable and great to use on rusted parts. [www.harborfreight.com]

I bought a brand new Dewalt DW 788 Scrollsaw off craigslists for $200 because the saw made a journey from NoCAL to the NW in the rain. The top was rusty ... I made a tape dam around the edges and covered the hole and poured the Evapo-Rust in and let it sit. All the rust is gone