Hi guys, this will be my first Salmon Blank for a customer who will be fishing in the northwest. I have decided to go with the ST1143-MHX (9'6" - 2 pc) for a blank but I am looking for some help on which guides to use. He will be mainly fishing from shore, but might do the occasional mooching.

Also wondering your thoughts on the best Reel Seat, thanks!

Thanks so much in advance,
Scott

"My biggest fear in life is that when I die, my wife will sell my fishing gear for what I said I paid for it."



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/10/2013 10:50AM by Scott Backholm.

What type of reel will he be using?

Great question! I actually am waiting to hear back from him on that peice of info. I prob should have waited to post this, thanks!

Scott, I am just finishing wrapping the guides on a 10.5 foot salmon rod right now for a conventional reel and have made a few (quite a few) salmon rods over the years, so I will be happy to furnish any info I a able to.

Thanks so much Randolph I really appreciate it. I am about 95% sure he will be using a spinning reel.

Well, it may be more difficult getting that info than I thought. It is a gift so the client cant really ask him. I do know its a spinning reel though so I guess I would like to build for whatever you guys think would be an average spinning reel for this set up.So, having said that, any recommendations on a reel seat and/or guides would be very much appreciated.

Scott

I think your customer would be happier with a heavier blank like the 1144 or the SA1085.

I accidentally built an ST1022-MHX last year - I ordered the ST1023 but didn't notice I received the wrong blank until it was already on the turner.
I built it for chucking up to 1/2oz spoons to Pinks and Coho in slower moving water, and although I found it it too light for salmon over 10 lbs, it is really nice for the smaller varieties. Note it has an ERN of 10.4 and AA of 75.
I used AmTak Aero 16-CF reel seat and PacBay M guides using 22X spacing to 4mm micros for runners.

If I were building it again I would go with the ST1023 for a little extra backbone when by-catching larger fish.
If he is fishing faster water or specifically targetting Chinook or large Chums you should probably go heavier yet.

Thanks Spencer, much appreciated. as I said this is my first salmon rod so I will yield to the people with knowledge. Thanks again!

Thanks Rick, based on Spencers advice I am looking for a tougher blank as well. So from what I see the biggest difference between the ST1023 and the ST1144F is the length, is 8'6" a big enough blank?

Thanks again
Scott

It depends what you are trying to do. A longer rod will allow you to cast a bit further and will be able to absorb more shocks (fish running towards or away, head shakes, etc).
I can cast 150 feet all day with a 1/2oz spoon with the 8'6" rod. Previously I used a 7' rod so 8'6" was a big upgrade. I don't see a need to go longer.
The "4" power rod will be significantly more power and a bit less sensitive. It may have difficulty casting lighter lures.

perfect advice Rick, thanks. Think i will go with the ST 1023.

Thanks again!
Scott

Guides and reel seat depend a lot on what the customer is willing to lay out for the rod. As far as length and line/lure weight it somewhat depends on what he will be casting. I prefer a rod of 9.5 to 10.5' in length for casting. an 8-9' rod will work just fine for mooching and or trolling. I am also making a 7' rod just for Buzz Bomb fishing from a boat, but from shore with the same lure I like the longer rod. Personal preference has a lot to do with what you make. try to find out as much information as you can.

I'll second the point of getting as much info about the end user's preferences about how, where, & what he targets most.

It's really nice to give a rod as a gift but it can be disappointing to both the giver and the user if the rod isn't quite what he likes to use per the power, action, length, & such.

That said, the only good advice about rod specs I can offer is...if he targets the larger salmon like Chinook (Kings) and is casting from shore mostly, I like a 1023 or 1025 with a lean to the 1025 as it's heavier power provides the muscle for the BIG ones 30lbs & up. Look at blanks in the 10-17 or 12-20lb line rating. I like the 8.6ft but some really like the 9-10ft'rs.

As for guides I would think a 25 - 16 - 10 - 6-6-6-6-6-6- 6tip would work well under most conditions with a large variety of reels & lines. With enough info you can tailor a guide train with the best performance within a more specific reel & line.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Randolph and Ray, thanks so much, good info!

Scott

Raymond, good advice! Once the rod is made, even if to the exact specifications of the customer and he or she is disappointed in the performance, all you can do is make minor changes or make another rod. Either way it is going to cost the customer. When someone disregards your advice and insists on something, it doesn't become your problem if you advised them otherwise.

The blank your looking at would be ok for steelhead or small coho, but get a decent fish on and good luck. Google this XST102 2 MT. XST 105 2MT, and XST 120 2MT. If you like what you see the 1444 which has the same type design will be a good choice. Trolling and mooching take the heavier blank as does anchor fishing with kwikfish.
The factory rods are all made in spinning versions by Lamiglas s there is a guide siz and spacig chart.
X 86 MTS, X 89 MTS, and X10MTS or MTC google seach for more info.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/10/2013 08:40PM by Spencer Phipps.

Spencer, that is not exactly correct. I made an International 6# test rod for a famous fisherman who I will not name for his sake, and he caught up to 75# sailfish on it around Christmas Island. I personally have caught 20# steelhead on 12# test and a 49# King Salmon on 17# line. Both fish were caught on the same rod. A Lamiglas GSH 114 2M rated for 8# - !2# test line. Using lighter rods, drag setting and experience are what matters most. If casting heavy lures then the heavier rod makes sense.