Roger,
For hidden hood grips, I turn off the rod with a hood for support.

Randolph,
My expanding mandrel experience first three rods went fine, all was right with the world... Fourth rod, resistance between force of spinning blank and expanding mandrel rubber o-rings tightened down on mandrel internal threads causing the mandrel to expand blowing apart a $160 blank from the inside. Then I had to patch and paint the hole in the drywall from where the expanding mandrel was thrown by me through the wall in a fit of anger.

Some day after I am long gone, some remodeler will open that wall and find it inside there and discover the patchwork and wonder what events led up to the expanding mandrel's entombment!

John, sorry for your experience. I have 5 different sizes of expanding mandrels, and have used them for well over 2000 rods without a single problem. You must have had a very powerful and fast motor to be able to throw one through wall board. My motor is a 1/10 hp on a Dale Clemens/renzetti lathe. I know it wouldn't be able to do that. Lucky it didn't hit you!!

Bill, and others, I sent a short article to Tom today outlining the procedure that I use to take the whip out of long rod blanks on a shorter lathe bed. If or when it gets printed, I hope it helps. Randy

Randy,
I have 6 of these rod rests made from Skate Board bearings and aluminum bar stock.

I have a 10 foot long lathe bed made of a 1/8. I have milled a slot down the center of the board to clamp my rod rests.

I put the blank into the head stock chuck - which is a 1/2 inch keyless chuck. I use a solid piece of blank in the chuck and then taper or build up the solid piece to insert into the end of the rod blank.

Then, I space the rod rests as needed down the length of the blank to eliminate all rod whipping. I am just very cautious when I first start the lathe motor to be sure that the rod does not begin to whip. If I find vibration, I move one or more rod rests as needed to eliminate all whipping.

It is just a matter of placing the rod rests along the length of the rod at a null point for the rod oscillation and the blank runs dead smooth.

I use a constant speed 3600 rpm motor, so the rod is spinning quickly and it makes easy shaping for the handle.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Roger, that is a very nice sounding set up. I am talking about those who don't have the ability or resources to make or have the room for your lathe and bed.

Tony:
After trying both on rod and mandel, I have settled on using a mandrel as the best option for me. Although I never had any "egg shape or centering" problems with either method. I like making several handles at a time. I also like having a separate woodworkers lathe in the garage to keep the dirty work out of my "wrapping & finishing room". I have taken a liking to using drywall sanding screen on the cork...really works fast, keeps surface smooth and doesn't load up. You can tear it in custom widths. You can make backing blocks in any width to help smooth out transition lines between two different materials, also.

As a related note .... I haven't had too many problems using a drill press to recess the butt end for fly rod seats. I use a homemade PVC jig to hold vertical....spin fast ... feed slow.

Thanks For the replies. I still not sure of what I need as far as mandrels Head And Tail ect. I have shaped some cork on my power wrapper but Would like to have a jet or similar lathe to do the job. I have no Idea what other attachments I will need to do the job. I have never used a lathe other that my wrapper. What type of head and tail stock what size mandrels Would I need to turn grips for my speckled trout/redfish rods. Most are 10-15wt rods 6'6'' to 7'6'' (not that that matters) I am still clueless. ( I am sure I can figure it out.) I just don't want to buy a lot of unnecessary attachments that I wont use.

You need a tail stock with a live center, a 3 jaw chuck for the head stock, unless you prefer a 4 jaw chuck, a tool rest or two, a drill chuck for the tail stock. turning tools. It all depends on how and what you want to turn.

Interesting and thought provoking conversation going on here.

Randolph you made a couple of comments:

Randolph Ruwe Wrote:
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> Roger, by the way, I can turn up to a 9 foot rod blank
> to shape the cork on a 4 foot lathe bed with very little problem.

Would you mind sharing how you do this? My work area is small. I told the wife that since the back bedroom was mine I thought of boring a hole in the wall that goes to the garage to put longer pieces through the wall. For some reason shes balking at that idea.

Randolph Ruwe Wrote:
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> I use expanding mandrels to center the blank while turning

I use some expanding mandrels (smallest 3/8") but I'm having a hard time trying to visualize one small enough for a rod blank. Do you have a pic so I can get this brain of mine to wrap around this?

Thanks,
Ron

Ron, I wrote up the procedure and Tom said he is going to try and get it in the next issue of RodMaker, send me your e-mail at rjruwe2@comcast.net and I can e-mail you a copy sooner.

HI JOHN,

When I need to have some thing " custom" made for what ever reason, I am paying for quality. I expect that person to be picky ,I call that "pride" in workmanship ,that is what I "we " are paying for .

I have been told the same thing,I understand how you feel. CUSTOM, QUALITY,and ONE OF A KIND ROD is what you are buying; Right??

You go. Richard Curry

Maysville GA.

What is life without fishing ?

HI JOHN,

When I need to have some thing " custom" made for what ever reason, I am paying for quality. I expect that person to be picky ,I call that "pride" in workmanship ,that is what I "we " are paying for .

I have been told the same thing,I understand how you feel. CUSTOM, QUALITY,and ONE OF A KIND ROD is what you are buying; Right??

You go. Richard Curry

Maysville GA.

What is life without fishing ?