I'm currently building a 12 foot fly rod that has 17 guides. I admit to feeling a little lazy about wrapping so many guides, so I'm curious as to whether anyone has "super-glued" guides to a fly rod or long spinning rod WITHOUT wrapping the guides and then FISHED the rod. If so, how did it work out, assuming that fish were actually caught on such a rod? I'll probably end up wrapping the guides anyway, but I kind of want to fish this rod ASAP too.

There is a way to successfully do that (earlier RodMaker article on "threadless wraps") but super glue isn't going to be sufficient. Neither is epoxy. Better wrap them on with thread or you're apt to be very disappointed out on the water.

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Patrick,
If you want to fish the rod now, put on 5 guides and go fishing.

Do you really need 17 guides on this rod?

Remember, you want to use as few guides as possible to Just properly load the blank when the blank is in full deflection.

Roger, I agree with you 17 guides is probably over the top. I have two guides on the butt section, five on the second section, four on the third section and six on the tip section (Guide sizes:-,4,2,2). The blanks were purchased from Angler's Roost and is a four piece 2/3 wt fly rod. I probably will build the rod for use on medium size mountain rivers (California) for trout using the so-called Czech nymphing style. I intend it to be a "spin-fly" rod.

I would like to get away with the minimum number of guides possible without compromising the efficiency or integrity of the rod. It does not have to cast anything a "country" mile ( 50 max feet is fine).

Are there any charts for guide placement for such a rod? Over-all on this rod the current temporary guide placement is: tip-top 4" 5" 6" 6" 6" , 8" 8" 8" 8", 8" 8" 8" 8" 8" 8", 15" 15" (to reel mount).

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Patrick,
I suppose that if I were building the rod, I would go with one fewer guide per section. However, since this is a 3 wt rod, the placement and number of guides on the two tip sections could be pretty close as you have listed.
Normally near the butt section, you can considerably increase the spacing. Something like 19 inches to the reel, then 15, 12, and 10.

When working with an unknown blank, I use methods commonly used by many other rod builders.

I just take 1/4 inch wide pieces of tape, and stick them on the blank, where I believe that the guides should be placed. Then, starting from the tip - flex the blank , and continue to move down the blank flexing the blank. As I flext the blank, I visualize the run of the line to be sure that the line flow will follow the contour of the loaded rod.

As needed, I will move the tape up and down the rod to achieve this result.

Finally, after taping the guides on the rod, I will run line through the guides from the reel, and pull down on the end of the line, as if fighting a fish and double check the line flow for a smooth load of the blank.

If time is of the essence and you can't wrap/coat reach for tape and get it done. I've taped on guide and fished them with great results. I've helped customers who were in a rush to hit a hot bite but had a broken guide or two this way too. I first tape the guide on snug with thin green masking tape then I'll electrical tape over. It'll get you by for the time being. I wouldn't attempt super glue

Not for nothing but I don't see that you did a ( Static Test )

Put the rod in some kind of holder put a line from the top to a heavy weight to put the rod in a nice arck Don't go to fare 90 degrees is all

Make Sure You Put Thread On The ferrules So They Do Not Split While Testing

Run another line though the guides with some weight a nut should do

Looking at your measurments you should be able to get rid of I would think 2-3 guides at least
I would keep the first at 4" Then try a half inch for about the next 4 - 5 guides
Then take a look at the guides and move them back The butt of it should let you move and let you take some off

Don't hert any cork on the rod in the holder Wrap rags around it if needed

Bill - willierods.com

Starting at 4" from the tip is fine, if I were making this rod I would increase the distance to 5, 6, 7, 7 1/2, 8 and then by 1/2" or 3/4" to the stripper guide. You have 10 guides all at 8" apart. Why?

Patrick,
I've a guide placement equation that I use.
What is the distance from the reel to the tip, what is the tip size and how many guides would you like to use ?
Normally it would be 1 per foot plus 1 plus the tip top for 13 guides plus tip top.
I typically build at 1 guide per foot and a tip top.
I've gone as low as 1 guide per foot minus 1 but rate the blank for light tippet use only.
If this is a 2/3 weight excessive guide mass will slow the rod a great deal and may make it a "slug" to fish.
If the rod tip continues to bouce, after the flys are in the water, control of the drift will be very difficult.
You might also try shrink wrap tubing to secure the guides. I've seen it used on low price factory builds.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/26/2013 07:34PM by Eugene Moore.

I want to thank all who replied here. I printed out all the responses to assist me in the building of this rod. I now have all the information I need to make this a successful build.