Thank you in advance for your help...

In mounting the reel seat on a new build, I accidentally got a few resin finger prints/smudges on the blank and am not sure what to use to safely remove them. My first thought was a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol but thought I'd solicit the advice of the experts before I tried anything. I'm using U-40 rod bond and the blank is a JMX 9' 5wt from Netcraft.

Sincerely,

Unless you have some wierd finish on the blank alchol won't hurt it. Rubbing alcohol is a bit lite for rodbuilding get some denatured from your hardware store when you can. If you're using the regular Rod Bond it will be hours before it sets up.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/06/2013 11:28AM by Spencer Phipps.

Jeff,
If you have resin finger prints and smudges on the blank and the resin has set up; it is likely that the only thing that is going to remove the finger prints and smudges will be very fine sand paper. Then, you will need to refinish the rod in the locations where you have sanded off.

Once the resin has setup, there are few things that will remove the marks. If the resin is wet, then ancohol will cut the marks. Once the resin has set partially, Xylene will cut the marks. Once the resin has fully set, it is likely that sand paper will be the only option.

Depending on where the marks are located, it may be possible to cover the marks with a decorative thread wrap.

Good luck
Roger

Not sure if it will help? If you get to the point of sanding or you might tray a small spot and see, but goof off is fairly harsh stuff. It has removed a few things that DNA would not.

Also try to heat it ( if set up ) and then a soft object to remove heat will softin it up Or your nail

If not set up yet Try the alcohole

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/06/2013 05:58PM by bill boettcher.

Yes I agree with Bill on the use of heat I have been using heat for years and I have been using a alcohol torch to take off rod bond for some time as you just need to heat it up and the rod bond will simple crumble off the rod but in your case just heat it up and wipe it off will do just fine.

Glenn McMurrian

Heat is good, but since we (I) don't know Jeff's level of experience it should be pointed out that heat will also destroy the blank.

You will be using heat to soften epoxy so you can get if off the blank...the blank is also held together with epoxy. You MUST use very light heat or you can easily destroy your blank. You may not even see any damage until it snaps one day down the road.

I would try heat myself, but you need to understand the dangers if you don't already.

If the blank has a gloss finish you may be able to "worry" it off with your fingernail or a sharp edge of Lucite. Sanding is going to damage the finish. If you do sand and just scuff the paint - but do not go down to the graphite - you can polish the finish back to gloss with "Santa Fe Jewelers Supply 3M Micron Polishing Paper".
Stock # 321529.
It is a kit that has polishing paper from 400 grit to 8000 grit.

to sand the epoxy I would wet sand with 2000-2500 grit wet/dry so you will not have to polish out deep groves.
Let me know if you need some - if you can't find. You can even use the above polishing paper to do that
Herb

To make a blank graphite is wrapped or rolled around the mandrel (linear fibers running lengthwise, with resins on the outside), cellophane is wrapped around the graphite to hold it together while it bakes. Cellophane won't melt, that's why they use it. The graphite covered mandrel is then placed in an oven and baked at closely monitored temperatures for an exact amount of time. As the rod blank bakes at over 250 degree’s, then the resins liquefy and penetrate throughout the graphite and blank. If you understand just how a graphite blank there is not much chance that a small rod builders flame could ever ever hurt a blank as Cellophane does not even melt in the first place so I don’t think he will have a problem with the heat.

Glenn McMurrian



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2013 06:42PM by Glenn McMurrian.

To make a blank graphite is wrapped or rolled around the mandrel (linear fibers running lengthwise, with resins on the outside), cellophane is wrapped around the graphite to hold it together while it bakes. Cellophane won't melt, that's why they use it. The graphite covered mandrel is then placed in an oven and baked at closely monitored temperatures for an exact amount of time. As the rod blank bakes at over 250 degree’s, then the resins liquefy and penetrate throughout the graphite and blank. If you understand just how a graphite blank there is not much chance that a small rod builders flame could ever ever hurt a blank as Cellophane does not even melt in the first place so I don’t think he will have a problem with the heat.

Glenn McMurrian



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2013 06:41PM by Glenn McMurrian.

OOOOOP's Sorry for the double post's

Glenn McMurrian

OK Glenn...if you say so.

LoL



(By the way, OP...don't follow the advise that says a flame won't hurt your blank. It doesn't matter if it's a torch or an alcohol lamp...quick passes are what you want. Hold it in one spot for too long and you'll mess up a perfectly good fishing rod...no matter what anyone else may tell you)



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/07/2013 03:15AM by Jay Lancaster.

Jay is Right On
I have replaced a blank because of using a Candle User error
Ya got to be carefull ! A low heat gun or hair dryer is better IMHO

Bill - willierods.com

I agree with Glenn's comments - if you are working in the butt section of the blank.

But, I have melted enough blanks in the tip section to know that heat will destroy a blank just fine.

When you are working around a size 4 or 5 tip section, it doesn't take much heat at all to completely destroy the blank.

Thanks all for the great information. I ran out and picked up some DNA and it did the trick! I'll experiment with heat on an older blank that I use for practice!

There is a major error in one of the above posts! Fishing rod prepeg carbon fiber is NOT cured at 1000 degrees!!! Most are cured very close to 250 degrees, that's why one must be very very careful using heat on a blank.

When the adhesive is fresh it will come off with even a Drug store alcohol with the highest alcohol content
70 - 80 %

When it dries it will take some heat to soften it to remove

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/07/2013 03:04PM by bill boettcher.

What I was trying to say is if you have ever seen the process of how a blank is made first hand they first wrap the graphite around a mandrel no epoxy involved then press it with a machine to form the blank,They then put cellophane around the new formed blank to hold it together. In the next step what they will do it put the blank or blanks into a large kiln or oven to dry and form. Some blank in the Lamiglas line are painted Orange with the color being baked into it with the help of a kiln or oven.

Glenn McMurrian

Glenn describes the process fairly accurately above, however he has left out that the carbon fiber (not graphite) is actually a composite material that includes a resin that has to melt to fuse the pre-preg sheet to become a cylinder around the mandrel.
This composite material is very vulnerable to the application of any heat higher then the temperature used to originally fuse the pre-peg. The use of a flame can easily reach the critical temperature and should never touch the blank.

I would warm it up (being very careful not to hot) and take a piece of plexiglass and break a piece off and use the sharp edge to kind of scrape the glue off.....being careful not to hurt the finish...