New rod builders usually have questions about applying epoxy to thread wraps. What five pieces of advice would you experienced builders give to newcomers on this subject?

I can sum it up in one - Do Less.

............

1)Measure the amounts of both parts of epoxy evenly and accurately
2) stir for the reccomended amount of time (no short cuts)
3)mix thoughly but not violently so to introduce the least amount of bubbles as possible
4) once mixed pour onto a piece of aluminum foil to help extend pot life
5)Apply epoxy with a spatula (I use a brush with hardened epoxy on it) with long, steady strokes, and wipe off the excess using the spatula
6) check for bubbles for at least 30 minutes (I pop them using a lighter to flame the finish...others don't)

Hope that helps though they are short answers...a whole article could be writen in detail just on applying epoxy to the threads (it has probably been covered a RodMaker article or may even be in the library).

Thanks,

Dan Grulke

1.mix properly-50/50 and for the recommended time........2.temperture-make sure the room is within the recommended working temp.......3.apply by hand-using a brush or spatula turn the rod by hand alowing the epoxy to flow off the utensil onto the wrap........4.drip-once the threads are coated allow the rod to sit and drip excess off(this where I use the torch and get most of the bubbles and get the epoxy to drip quicker).....5.leave it alone-transfer rod to dryer,turn on and leave it alone until dry,any imperfections after this can be taken care of with a buff of scotch brite and another thin coat

www.southriverrodsllc.com

I'll add a few basics that always seem to come up.

1) Measure. Use syringes and measure carefully. mix in batches of 2ml (total) or more to improve accuracy.
2) Mix. For at least 2 minutes, then mix another 1-2.
3) Let the bubbles release on their own, or blow on the mix to help this along
4) Load up your tool with finish and transfer quickly to the wrap while the rod is turning, either by hand or motorized using a quick spin.
5) Leave it alone and let it level. You shouldn't spend more than 15-20 seconds per wrap.

Terry

1) Buy one of Mudhole's electric epoxy mixers - best $40 you ever spent.
2) Have the rod turning on a lathe or rod dryer so the epoxy dries evenly.
3) What Tom said.

Make sure the rod is Level or the finish will slide to the low end

Bill - willierods.com

Dust, drafts, pets, and insects may deserve mention.

Find a product that meets your needs. Maybe you need more flexibility. Maybe you need better UV resistance. Take the time to learn its behavior and give it a fair trail. You might even want one product for the guide wraps and another for the butt wrap.

If what you are doing works well, stay with it.

Be willing to mix an extra batch now and then.

Don't blame a product for problems that you create yourself. Fisheyes might be a good example.

I find I "want" to start at the butt end and work forward but it goes much better the other way around.

Do not apply finish when the blank is on the dryer motor. It is way too slow. OTH, I don't think it is possible to turn the blank too fast as long as you are willing to consider two coats.

Whatever you do don't think you are painting. Better you use an eyedropper and drop a big gob on the middle of the thread and just "let it do its thing".

There is very little that you can do wrong that can't be fixed with a file/sandpaper and another coat. Making it smoke/burn is one of the few!

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Clenlyness ito godlyness
just keep everything Clean Wash the hands often

Bill - willierods.com

Rid you world of Silicon spray. My mate learnt the hard way after he serviced some reels in his rod making room. Silicon is the enemy of a decent epoxy job!!!