Guys i am still a new builder and cant tell if im using the correct epoxy or not. I have been doing a single coat on my wraps. I have been using Flexcoat high build and i guess its done good but im just a rookie. Is one coat of Highbuild good or should i be doing a 2 coat system with lite build or a 1 coat lite and 1 coat high? The high build has been taking 48 hours to get tack free on some rods. Maybe ive been applying to much. Also i did learn that color preserver is needed to make the trhead keep its color. Is there a thread out there that does not have to have color presever on it. Thanks for all the help.

It depends on how thick you're applying it. A high-build epoxy can be applied either thinly or thickly. Once the threads are sealed and covered, that's all you need to do. Unless you can actually feel the threads when you run a fingernail across the wraps, I'd say you've got enough on there.

NCP thread will hold its color without CP, but lacks the sparkle of regular nylon. It looks more like paint. Not bad, just a different look.

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NCP (or ColorFast or Staytrue) thread no need color preserver.
FC is fine, one coat too, 2 coat of lite too as 1 lite one heavy, find the most confortable for you and stick with it.

Kyle,
As long as you are just starting, be sure to do two things with respect to finish:
1. Insure that your portions -A and B are perfectly matched. i.e. use the syringes to measure and be sure to measure the same for each part.
2. Use a clean plastic cup to mix each time to be sure that you do not have any contaminants in your mix.
3. Then, be sure to mix, using a slightly rounded craft stick for at least 120 seconds or 2 minutes - by the clock.

So many problems with finish are caused by insufficient mixing.

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I have only used high build flex coat finish since I first started wrapping rods many years ago. I very seldom put more than one coat of finish on any rod. Once in a while, if I happen to have to clean up one wrap slightly, I may put another thin coat on one guide or spot on the rod, but generally one coat does a perfect job.

I personally don't like to use either NCP thread, nor do I like to use color preserver.

Rather, I like the semi translucent look of nylon thread that simply blends into the color of the blank, rather than stand out on a blank. But all builders and clients have different wishes with respect to their builds.

But, if you have success with a single coat of high build flex coat as I do; there is no reason to go to any different system, manufacturer, or multiple coats of finish.

Good luck

Roger

Like many things in our craft, you'll find that there is seldom only 1 "correct" way to accomplish a good result.

However, Roger's points are excellent with respect to getting a good finish, regardless on which product you use. Inaccurate measuring and poor mixing are the #1 and 2 reasons for poor finish results.

As far as products, this becomes more of a personal preference. Finish quality depends on both good practice but also good application and amount of finish. Too much finish gives you football shaped wraps, too little results in thin spots that need another coat. Some prefer to apply with brushes, others (like me) use a spatula.

I'm a Threadmaster Lite, apply with a spatula one coat guy. Like Roger, I too have to go back and touch up spots on occasion. I would try a couple of different products and see which suits you best. You'll probably get used to one.

Good luck in your learning process!

Terry

Kyle

If you haven't seen this video on how to measure and mix epoxy finish, check it out. Click the link below.

[www.flexcoat.com]

Kyle,

I'm to somewhat of a rookie with rod building, but I'd like to think I'm getting better. I've used flexcoat high build for all of my rods so far. They did start out with some footballs, some needed touch-ups and second coats, but they are getting much better and my technique is improving. I don't mix mine in a cup. I do use the syringes and have mixes as little as 1/2 cc of A and B without any problems. I mix mine a piece of tin foil taped to a paper plate. I use a portion of my disposable stir stick handle ( I cut off about 2.5") and make small circle motion in the middle working out to the perimeter and continuing first clockwise and then counter-clockwise for three minutes. I then remove and bubbles using my heat gun on low and about a 12-15" distance to warm it and the bubble disappear. The added heat will thin the epoxy, but then it will thicken. You can add more heat when needed to thin if necessary. Once the epoxy is on I then re-warn the wraps with the heat gun to clear up and bubble that might have developed for the application process. I do use a brush to apply and spread it around.

I did try Threadmaster, one part and didn't really like it. For me it seemed to take forever to dry.

For your question on time to get tack free is a good one. I've found that in about 24 hours it isn't totally cured. If I push hard I can leave a mark in the finished , but in 48 hours it is good to go. I have no problem with this.

Chester

May your line be tight and your beverages be cold!