Hey guys. Im starting my first micro build. Its a 7' MH power fast action bass rod. Gonna use it for swimbaits and flipping grass on the Potomac River. The handle from butt to bottom of real seat is 11.25 inches. The real seat is a Fuji ECSM with the threads cut down to 4 5/8". Its split grip with no foregrip. I am going to use Fuji titanium SIC #4's with a titanium SIC 4.5 top. Probably use no heavier then 50# braid. Or at times 12# copolymar.

Question, what would the experienced micro guys setup be for this blank. What stripper guide would you use? Would you just run all micros? Or would you atart with a bigger double foot or single foot guide and taper it down to the micros? Also, is a locking wrap required, or just recomended?

Thanks for any help.

-Mike



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/29/2013 09:48AM by Michael Ortega.

Hi Michael,I have been using fuji plcsg in a 5mm. for stripping guide and really like them then go straight to running guides.If you do not use a locking wrap make sure you fill guide foot tunnel good.

Thanks David. How does that guide match colorwise with the titanium SIC's?

When I use 4's I start with either a DF 6 or DF 5. I almost always use Kigan Coalite's or Zirconia's.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

I have built two St. Croix 4C710HF swimbait blanks for fishing A-rigs. I used Fuji LSG3.5 micro's all mounted at 0 degrees or all on top. I am using Curado 300E casting reels with 70# Samauri braid. The A-rigs weigh from 1 1/8oz to 2 3/4oz. On casting rods the first guide is actually on the reel as far as I see it. Why make the first guide on the rod any larger than what is on the reel. The exception would be if it were a spiral wrap and then the butt guide would be larger for reasons to get the line around the blank as smoothly as possible. I build casting rods with all guides on top if the rod position will be down and spiral wrap all rods that will have the rod position up. Topwaters, crankbaits, spinnerbaits and jerkbaits rod tip down and texas worms, shaky head and most jigs rod tip up. The two 4C710HF St. Croix rods perform very well and the distance is excellent. I also put 14" handles on them because this makes casting and retrieving these A-rigs a whole lot easier. You tuck the tip of handle in your arm pit while retrieving and it takes all the strain off your wrist. My two cents worth.

thanks for all the suggestions. I am building with guides on top and will most likely have it paired with a Shimano Chronarch 201E or Abu Garcia Revo premier. Think im gonna try with all micros and with the fuji plcsg in 5mm for stipper and see which is better or if any difference at all. If no difference i'll stick with all micros for less weight.

How does everyone file the guide foot on these micros? I only have hand file and my hands to hold it with. Any other options other than buying some peice of equipment? I do have one of those aluminum guide holders but the screw is bigger than the inside of the guide ring.....

Thanks again.

-Mike

I hold my micro's with a hemostate on their leg and just lighty file them to just put a slight tapor on the end of the foot. You probably wrap them without dressing them up in most cases.

hemostat is a great idea. im gonna try that. Thank you.

I just put a 2-56 machine screw in the ring and hold it in my fingers. I just touch them up a bit with the Dremel.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

If you use a hemostadt be careful not to grip the ring, which may crack it.
Or, cushion it with a small piece of tubing slipped over each jaw of the tool.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Ooooooh, dremel with a grinding stone. What a great idea (i didnt need the tips of my fingers anyway...haha). Im definately gonna get some hemo's and use the dremel. Hmmmm, I guess I forget how small these guides really are. in my head im thinking I can just clip onto the upper portion of the guide and have room to file, I guess that might not be the case.....DOH!

Now I need to watch some videos of how to do a locking wrap.....Any suggestions on good ones to watch?

-Mike

I use what Ron does
But
I grind the teeth off and then put electrical wire shrink tube over them
Then hold the rings The shrink tube is good as to be careful on the rings Not too much pressure

Bill - willierods.com

Mike,

Sounds like you are on good track for the guide train. When prepping micros, I typically hold the ring in my fingers and use my hook file to knock the finish off of the bottom of the guide foot. You get just a bit more friction between the foot and the blank. It really cuts down on guides sliding out while I'm wrapping. Most micros have foot shapes that don't make me feel the need to do much prep to the top or end of the foot.

Joe

I use a DF for the butt guide because I have replaced several non-double foots on rods that were used in tournament fishing. The butt guides have a tendency to break when "some" pro-anglers shove them in their rod lockers on their boat. I always replace them with a DF and I haven't had any failures on the repairs or new builds. It may just be the customers I deal with, but they don't take good care of their rods. In my case, some get free rods from a well-known manufacturer that come with micro guides. They don't pay for them, so they don't really care if they break. They don't mind paying the small fee to replace that guide either. Basically, I do it for stability reasons, not line issues or anything else.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

6mm stripper to 4mm then to 3mm

For prepping guides:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Adjust the size of the thru machine screw and piece of blank to match the size of the guide ring. Cut the blank at the size, so that you will only need about 2 turns of the wing nut to hold the guide nicely.
That way, you don't have to spend a bunch of time screwing and unscrewing the wing nut on the end of the machine screw.
Sand the head of the screw flat so that it is nearly gone. That way, there will be no screw head sticking out over the guide foot area to interfere with prepping.

I am using a 1X30 inch belt sander. For most guide prep work I use either 150 or 180 or finer grit paper on the belt sander.

Roger

my 1st micro is all #4 KBAG+KTAG
my second is #6KTAG and #4KBAG+KTAG to the top
and the recent 3rd build (still on dryer)i used #8KWAG, #6KTAG and #4KBAG+KTAG to the top
from the prev 2 build i didn't see any difference in casting distance

honestly i'm still curious with fuji video about KR concept. to prove it so i make this 3rd rod,
because i dont have KWAG#5,5. so i change it to #6KTAG and downsize the stripper from KWAG#10 to #8

Micheal;
Here are some past posts that should help you

[rodbuilding.org]

[rodbuilding.org]

[rodbuilding.org]

This is how I used to do it. Now I just use a small machine screw to hold it.

I use a rubber polishing wheel on the Dremel.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

Fuji's official recommendation for micros (just as a reminder for those interested) on a KR CONCEPT rod is a size 10 double foot KW, then a size 5.5 double foot KW, then THREE KB size 4 or 4.5 runners before going to KT size 4 or 4.5 to the tip.

In addition to the "standing wave" between the reel and the stripper, Fuji documented in their high speed research a "wave" being introduced as the line changes direction as it rolls off the spool. Each time the line changes direction, a small wave is introduced that is significant enough for Fuji to conclude that a stripper is needed.

I know Steve does not subscribe to this analysis, I'm just passing along Fuji's information. As mentioned above, a lot of factors need to be considered.