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fisheyes
Posted by:
mick vickers
(---.a1a.zs.ncren.net)
Date: March 15, 2013 08:39AM
i put another coat of finish on last night, when i checked this morning there were a few spots, i guess fisheyes, where it looked like the epoxy "repelled". i was gonna put another coat on anyway; what do i need to do before the final coat? what did i do wrong to cause this? the finish is over pro wrap ncp and metallic if that helps and the wraps were first coated with chromaseal and two light coats of pro kote before the third layer which had the problems.
thanks, mick Re: fisheyes
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: March 15, 2013 09:53AM
Mick,
Almost always, fisheyes are caused by surface contamination. Generally, it is caused by an oil, or silicone or some sort that has gotten on the finish and caused it to "repel" and not bond to the previous finish. Level with a sanding block and be sure that all of the surface is scuffed, and you should be in good shape. It is always a good idea to wash your hands frequently with soap and water when building rods. Many folks have rather oily skin, that can end up transferring everywhere to later cause issues. Good luck Roger Re: fisheyes
Posted by:
Terry Turner
(---.hsd1.or.comcast.net)
Date: March 15, 2013 09:55AM
Mick,
If you had successful previous coats with no problems, then at some point a foreign substance was introduced to the surface. I assume you used pro kote for your 3rd coat as well? Typical sources are finger oils, or any cleaning that you might do prior to applying finish. Any oily substance or solvent left on the surface can cause fish eyes and repel the finish. The best process for multiple coats of finish is to apply within a day of the previous coat, without any surface prep, cleaning or touching with your fingers. If the surface is fully cured and needs to be prepped, then buffing with a gray scotch brite pad, then wiped with a clean dry cloth is the best method between cured coats. Sometimes there is oily substance in the air if any silicone sprays are used in the area. It's amazing how little it takes to create finish problems like you describe. Terry Re: fisheyes
Posted by:
mick vickers
(---.a1a.zs.ncren.net)
Date: March 15, 2013 10:23AM
so no DNA after sanding, just a clean dry cloth?
thanks Re: fisheyes
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: March 15, 2013 10:31AM
Never wipe anything with a solvent as the last step in any surface preparation.
................ Re: fisheyes
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: March 15, 2013 10:44AM
If you used DNA between coats - the DNA could absolutely be the source of your fish eye. Re: fisheyes
Posted by:
mick vickers
(---.a1a.zs.ncren.net)
Date: March 15, 2013 11:02AM
no DNA between coats, probably just my grubby fingers Re: fisheyes
Posted by:
Steve Mcleod
(87.244.95.---)
Date: March 15, 2013 08:44PM
Just lightly abrade the surface, no need to block sand level. wipe the affected area with a clean cloth or paper towel moistened with distilled water. Dry off and remove dust particles with a strip of masking tape and apply another coat of finish. Jersey, Channel Islands. (U.K.) Re: fisheyes
Posted by:
Tom Locke
(---.bstnma.fios.verizon.net)
Date: March 16, 2013 10:20PM
I have never heard of not using DNA before. I use it every time to clean the blank, threads and even the previous layer of finish and I have never had a fisheye. Never. Granted, I have only built 8 rods, but it is still a lot of DNA with no issues. I do let it evaporate before proceeding with whatever I am doing next. Maybe I have just been lucky. Who knows. Re: fisheyes
Posted by:
Terry Turner
(---.hsd1.or.comcast.net)
Date: March 17, 2013 09:09PM
Hey Tom,
It will bite you eventually. It's best not to use DNA as your last step before finish. If I have any lint or particles, I have used the blue painters tape to blot off any material and this works for me. Terry Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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