Using this as my search term, I got 10 hits that had nothing to do with the subject.

The question, therefore, is this: For "Down and Dirty" guide repairs on rods under 50.00 retail, have posters here opted to use the uv resin. The stuff is cured in mere seconds, allowing a rodster to go fishing pretty quick. I have followed various threads at fly fishing forums, where many resins are discounted/promoted/dry tacky/dry clear/dry hard/dry flexible.

I normally use 5 minute resin, which works OK, (keeping in mind this is a POS from offshore, not a Sage, Loomis, St. Croix, etc) but I wanted to learn more about the uv system. I did try the product from a Canadian distributor, but it dried tacky and dull, rather then tack free and shiney. Thanks, Ken.

The system that Cork4US sells dries clear, smooth and quickly. I haven't played with any of the other stuff. Ken Preston might be able to help you there.

......................

Acknowledged, Tom, Thanks, KD



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/13/2013 05:45PM by Ken Driedger.

If you are looking for a FAST dry coating for wraps How about Permagloss or Lumiseal ??

Bill - willierods.com

What 5 minute resin as you call it is designed for guide wraps?

it is a uv cure finish. Cork4u has had it at the ICRBE for several years. they are great for repairs or as whole rod as you coat it and it cures in a few seconds. they have a newer version of their resin that i haven't had a chance to try yet. Just one of the things that can be seen at the ICRBE

Randolph Ruwe Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What 5 minute resin as you call it is designed for
> guide wraps?

None, that I am aware of. I have using this stuff for over 25 (twenty-five) years now, for down and dirty repairs on low-end rods. When a repair is needed on a 29.99 rod, I'm not into using a resin that takes 6 hours to dry tack free, and 48 hours to cure. Not for the 12 US dollars I ask for the fix, none for the guide, as I get all the broken rods from the local sports shop, and remove the good guides. I have seen the same rod back again 5 years later, and my 5 minute repair is still holding up just fine. It's immateriel if it's not designed for rodwork. It works.

Edited for spelling. hope I got them right this time :)



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/14/2013 04:30PM by Ken Driedger.

john timberlake Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> it is a uv cure finish. Cork4u has had it at the
> ICRBE for several years. they are great for
> repairs or as whole rod as you coat it and it
> cures in a few seconds. they have a newer version
> of their resin that i haven't had a chance to try
> yet. Just one of the things that can be seen at
> the ICRBE

Oops, What's an ICRBE? Using that as a search term, it comes back as an ICRBE. I checked the Cork4U site as per the sponsor left hand frame, and see it's Portugal, no pricing. I'll send them a note, and see about costs. Thanks, KD.

Hello Ken

International Custom Rod Building Exposition.

The best rod builders gathering in the world.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

I have been researching (pestering chemists and physicists /laboratory technicians / sales people) from around 10 companies on three continents for the past 2+ years. Bottom line(s) at this time:

1/ ALL epoxy yellows immaterial if it is one or two part. Chemists told me that and I have checked it some faster / some slower but all yellow.
2/ There is no single commercial source for both the finish AND the light source (one company selling both) that will adequately meet the requirements of rod builders in all aspects. That is covering thread / metal parts / abalone / feathers etc.
3/ Some require secondary (heat) sources to cure in shadowed areas - which can be damaging to blanks etc.
4/ I have tried most of the fly tiers mixes / light sources and none of them both meet requirements and are cost effective (too hard, too soft, leave oily residue requiring alcohol clean up post cure etc)
5/ The system offered by Cork4us is very good - but at $600 (shipping/handling) it's pretty pricey for quick repairs unless you have a lot of rods to repair on a daily/weekly/monthly basis.
6/ Surf board repair resins are less than optimal - tend to crack/craze and will continue to harden over time when in sunlight.
7/ Many of the resins (especially those used for surf boards) DEMAND use out doors for ventilation as they have high levels of VOCs and "outgas"

The past years have been a definite "learning experience" short sumaries:

1/ Most practical light source in terms of durability, portability, longevity are LEDs @ 365nm / 375nm or 405nm - there are exactly ZERO suppliers of "plug and play" affordable light sources in the US. Those that are available start at around $400 and reach quickly up into the $4-8,000 range. I've invested in / played around with LEDs from China - they work but they have to be assembled from parts (LEDs, transformers, heat sinks etc.)
2/ Second most practical light source is tanning bed light tubes - but they are long (48"+) making them cumbersome to move / store and relatively inefficient - requiring 5+ minutes to cure UV compounds.
3 Least practical for rod building are the windshield repair units - low intensity & range of light is restricted.
4/ Most dangerous are mercury vapor lamps - as are used on many UV cure conveyor printing machines.

I am planning out a couple of 'fact finding' trips to UV product manufacturers on the east coast (although there are more companies in California, Oregon, Michigan, Illinois who specialize in LED design and fabrication)

For those interested here is a STARTING point on LEDs": [led.linear1.org]
and a couple on UV Cure formulations: [www.epoxies.com]
[www.masterbond.com]

If anyone wishes to discuss via email - feel free to contact me

Thanks a tonne, KP, for your most informative post. Much appreciated. Cheers, KD.

Sounds like your best bet is Permagloss or LumiSeal

Bill - willierods.com

I have no doubt that something out there exists for our application. Many thanks to Ken for spending the time and effort to try to find something. I have talked to him about this and one of his biggest hurdles is speaking to the manufacturers in a language that they understand and we still do too. i still hold out hope that something will come out of his efforts. thanks Ken

There is definitely a product that will work. I've tested several that are amazing (5 second or less cure to a depth of 1/16 of an inch) the challenge is to identify a reasonably priced light source. The Spot-100 lamp (which I borrowed) works very well - but I'm not ready to pay $400+. I have one query out to a company in England that makes LED light panels to find out if they can manufacture one at the proper wavelength / intensity and price point. Rather than try to explain these panels - here is a link: [designledproducts.com]

Ken, when you say they will yellow over time, how much time are you talking about.? I tested all versions of Dura-Gloss for over 2 years. Hanging samples on my back fence with a southern exposer and left there for the years in rain, wind, snow and sun. Compared to any other product on the market, and even to Perma-Gloss, there was no repeat NO yellowing whatsoever. All other finishes that it was tested against had very noticible yellowing and showed adverse effects of weather exposure. Not so with the Dura-Gloss.

Ken, when you say they will yellow over time, how much time are you talking about.? I tested all versions of Dura-Gloss for over 2 years. Hanging samples on my back fence with a southern exposer and left there for the years in rain, wind, snow and sun. Compared to any other product on the market, and even to Perma-Gloss, there was no repeat NO yellowing whatsoever. All other finishes that it was tested against had very noticible yellowing and showed adverse effects of weather exposure. Not so with the Dura-Gloss.

Randy .... Are you describing Duragloss (U-40 epoxy) or Duragloss Acrylic finishes? If acrylic I agree with you they do not yellow. Their drawbacks are outlined on the associated MSDS (material safety data sheets) and the variations in mixtures (2:1 and 4:1).