In the process of building a center pin using a Mudhole ST1562-MHX (13 ft) blank. Decided to use Fuji BYAG's 20, 16, 12, 10, then ten 8s. Now I am wondering if I should have ordered BLAGs for the 8s for a smoother transition between the top tip (BFAT 8) and the first 8. I can return the BYAG 8s and order BLAG 8s but hate to put off the build too much longer especially since I already order these guides as I was not happy with the ones in the kit.

Options: use these; order ten new 8s; order just a few 8s in BLAGs?
Input and suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance for the help.

PS, this rod is for steelies in PA so I chose 8s to combat ice.
Bob

Should have said that BYAGs are high frame.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/13/2013 09:36PM by robert schultz.

Robert....I've built a centerpin rod using the exact same set up you have listed....BYAG's all the way out. Didn't find a need for the BLAG's. My thought was this....by the time the line goes through 10 #8 guides...it pretty much knows where it needs to go....and that is out the tip. BLAG's might lower the guide height to put it more in line the BFAT tip...but you are talking maybe 5mm lower?

Also..a builder/fisher friend in upstate NY recommended to keep the line off the blank using the BYAG...greater distance = less chance for ice buildup. Same reason you chose 8's...to combat ice.

Check the chart that Anglers Resource has on the guide heights if you haven't already.

In the grand scheme...don't think that 5mm will make much difference.

But...this is just my opinion.

Thank you Jess! Appreciate the help.
Bob

You could also wrap a guide for the tip top instead of using a tiptop.Plus I think with 10 number 8s you have too many guides.

Rolly Beenen
Rovic Custom Rods

Thanks Rolly. Appreciate your input. The kit came with 14 guides. Looks like for spinning they use 13 and 14 on a centerpin.
see [www.mudhole.com]
I've build several fly rods but I'm new to centerpin.

OK
Correct me if wrong
This is a fly rod with a reel without any drag
it is already 13 ft long making it Top heavy
the lightest guides are in order here And with the smallest rings that pass any knots
A static test will also tell you where to place the guides acording to the blank flex
Minamas - recoils or the ones you have with the kit you can always change them

Just read where G Loomis uses recoil guides for the center pin rods ??? Do a search

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/14/2013 07:49PM by bill boettcher.

Bill...partially correct.....not a fly rod....but the same length

Because of the extreme temperatures that steelheaders fish in....the smallest guides often freeze long before the fisher's toes, fingers or nose. It is extremely annoying, especially on a 13' 6 rod to clear guides of ice before each and every cast. Therefore, builders use larger guides (size 8's) to combat the freezing.

A centerpin reel is typically spooled up with special 8lb monofilament floating line....not fly line..so yes, a smal guide could work, but would blind over with ice in no time.

Lots of builders will build the long cork handles(24" isn't out of the question) with sliding rings to allow the angler to achieve balance with what ever reel they choose. It isn't uncommon to see Centerpin reels taped to the grip once the proper balance is found.

understood

But what about spraying with some thing like Pam to keep the ice off the guides
Also a thin ringed guide would probably keep the ice from forming on the rig Unlike a larger ceramic guide that is why i thought of Minimas Of corse a larger ring will help with the iceing up

Bill - willierods.com

I've heard of guys spraying pam...but have never seen it. I've also heard of guys using chapstick...but have never seen it.

By the time the centerpin angler is loaded with various floats, beads, flies, jigs, 8 to 10 different sizes of shot, egg sacks in 3-4 different colors, ....a change of warm gloves, socks etc....extra spool.....a few layers of clothing.....the last thing he/she has room for is a can of Pam.

But it is an option.

that is why I like the KISS methoud keep it simple stupid

Bill - willierods.com

I have have centerpin fished for over 15 years now and long before rod building I would never go lower than an #8. In most cases you are fishing with a main line of #8-#12 with a longer floro leader blood knoted in and pulling that in and out of the water will develop a ice build up on the knot. The first few guides take the brunt of the freezing but #8 will suit you well. You are constintly busting ice off those even with the use of stanley's ice off paste, chapstick or pam. Part of winter steelheading.

Robert.
If you can tell me why they use an extra guide for the center pin I would be interested. The Center pin rod that is on the dryer right now does not have 14 guides and a tip top.

This rod has a 10" rear grip , an size 17 reel seat( aprox 4.5")and a 9" fore grip. Using MHX spacing the first guide would then be 12" in front of the foregrip.

The spacing I use to start with is 3.5" from tip and then add an inch to each succesive guide. 3.5'" 4.5 " 5.5" 6.5"and so forth.

Since a centerpin does not sprial off like a spinning reel you need not use anything larger then a 20 as your butt guide as there should not be anyloops to tame. Even if you sidecast instead of wallis cast.

Guide sizes 20, 16, 12, 10 *2 7*8 plus an 8 guide as the tip

The handle kit I see in the attached link you sent me too has a very short fore grip. Most of the guys I know have their hand on the fore grip and just the back edge of their pinky against the rim of the centerpin reel. you would like to have as a minimum 7" as a fore grip I would think.

Rolly Beenen
Rovic Custom Rods

I have built many float rods (centerpin) as that is my fishing method of choice. I have built on CTS, loomis, and batson blanks for the most part. Typically because these rods are from 11 to 15 feet long and flex more than typical rods, the general rule is to have the number of guides on the rod equal the length of the rod and add one for the tip. Obviously the term custom build refers to the builders own decision and rules are just guidelines. The flex on float rods tends to be more extreme than spinning rods all the way to the butt. I use the fugi guides often and go with this configuration for a nice transition down the entire blank. 20j 16j 12j 10j 8j 8j 8lj 8lj 8lj then 7j's to the end and I use a 7j for the tip. The transition from the 8lj to the 7j is perfect, and the size difference between the 8's and 7's is minimal as far as guide icing. I heard about this configuration years ago from some pro builders in Canada and after building a few rods with this method, I have found it to work perfectly.

Hillsborough, NJ

First, thanks to everyone for the great discussion. The rod is built and looks good. Hopefully testing will be conducted shortly.
Rolly,
I am an center pin newbe so I can't answer your questions. But here's a few comments. Take a look at the library section of rodbuilders.org. There is an article on the "new guide system" for spinning rods. Note that they recommend using a number of guides equal to the rod length in feet plus one, excluding the top tip. Perhaps this is how Mudhole chose the number of guides for this kit. In terms of grip, I too thought the front cork seemed short as I too put my hand in front of the reel. This rod is for a friend. My center pin (okuma sheffield) doesn't have a reel seat. When I started center pinning, I placed the reel were it felt right. Turns out its about the same location as the Mudhole setup. I did come across an entry on rodbuilders discussing placing the seat such that the butt did not go past you elbow. This is not the case for this kit. Hopefully all will work out well.
Thanks again for all the help.
Bob