I need to replace a broken reel seat on a casting rod. I am going to cut the reel seat and rod in half in the middle and repair the rod using the ferrel repair then put a new seat over it.
Question; Should I use a sleeve over the repair and then step up the size of the reel seat, or can I use a full reel seat as the sleeve?

Thanks,
Steve

Depends on the type and strength of the seat versus the strength needed at that point.

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I'll be using a standard Fuji ECSM reel seat and it is a crankbait rod, medium / fast action

Action doesn't really describe the power but I'm not sure I'd rely on a nylon seat barrel for the strength to rejoin a split rod blank like that.

.............

But why do you want to cut the rod itself in two pieces if just the seat is the one that is broken?

I have seen this repair process either here or in the magazine (I think). I would rather strip the rod down and rebuild but that is not what the customer wants.

I wasn't sure about the strength of the reel seat either so that is why I asked.

Thanks for the help

It wouldn't have been in the magazine.

........

I guess I read a thread here about replacing a broken reel seat without taking all the guides off the rod. 2 methods mentioned were to either remove the rear grip and replace the seat that way or to cut the blank in 2 and install a new seat over top of the ferrel / sleeve repair. Am I crazy or did I read that here? I know I can come up with some crazy ideas once in a while but I'm not taking credit for that one. C'mon Tom, if it was written here I'm sure you commented on it.

Just to clarify, I wouldn't even think about cutting a quality blank in half to replace the seat but low-end mass manufactured stuff I will if that is the route the customer tells me to go.

Thanks again,

Steve

If it was written here I didn't write it, nor do I personally approve of every technique written on this or any other internet forum. It's also a bit much to expect me to be able to read every single post made on this forum. I do have at a least a tiny few other things to do each day.

If it was me, I'd remove the rear grip, spiral cut the seat off, and reinstall everything from the butt end.

One thing is for sure, if you perform this the way the customer tells you to, make sure he understands that he also supplies any warranty or guarantee.

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This is one way I have found

Re: slipping reel seat, where to drill
Posted by: Fred Yarmolowicz (---.hsd1.nj.comcast.net)
Date: November 14, 2011 10:21PM

Just had 2 in that spun reel seats. Easy fix. Cut the rod in half at the center of the reel seat. I cut on an angle to insure the rod is lined up right when assembling. Out of a scrap piece of blank make an under sleeve to attach the blank pieces together. Arbor up the reel seat and ream it to fit both pieces of the blank . Apply Rod Bond to the sleeve and to the reel seat . Make sure the coverage is good with the adhesive and fit it al together. Index the two pieces by turning the blank until it is fully seated to the seat and the grips are up tight to the seat. Set it aside to set up and you are done. One of the 2 i just did landed a 46 inch striper Sunday that really stressed the rod. It held up just fine. Don't forget the water break free surface and it will last forever. By the way the old ones released due to hardly any surface retention area on the seat. There looked like there was mold release still on the inside of the seat. In other words poor prep. Cust will be none the wiser and wonder how you saved his grips.

Bill - willierods.com

This is one way I have found

Re: slipping reel seat, where to drill
Posted by: Fred Yarmolowicz (---.hsd1.nj.comcast.net)
Date: November 14, 2011 10:21PM

Just had 2 in that spun reel seats. Easy fix. Cut the rod in half at the center of the reel seat. I cut on an angle to insure the rod is lined up right when assembling. Out of a scrap piece of blank make an under sleeve to attach the blank pieces together. Arbor up the reel seat and ream it to fit both pieces of the blank . Apply Rod Bond to the sleeve and to the reel seat . Make sure the coverage is good with the adhesive and fit it al together. Index the two pieces by turning the blank until it is fully seated to the seat and the grips are up tight to the seat. Set it aside to set up and you are done. One of the 2 i just did landed a 46 inch striper Sunday that really stressed the rod. It held up just fine. Don't forget the water break free surface and it will last forever. By the way the old ones released due to hardly any surface retention area on the seat. There looked like there was mold release still on the inside of the seat. In other words poor prep. Cust will be none the wiser and wonder how you saved his grips.

here is the page it came from more info
[rodbuilding.org]

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/01/2013 04:09PM by bill boettcher.

Thanks Bill, that was what I read. Did you use a sleeve under the seat or do you use the seat as the sleeve? Sounds like you are just using the reel seat.

Thanks again,

Steve

if the seat is JUST loose and spins and most do not have a foregrip If it does ask the owner if he wants it

You can take off what is needed to slide the seat forward Clean the blank pick out as much of the glue as possible reglue

Bill - willierods.com

Steve,
I realize that you can do that to the rod if you like.
But, rather, why not just take off the butt cap, the rear grip, the reel seat and glue on a new reel seat, rear grip and butt cap.

Pretty straight forward.

Just use tape to make all diameters the same as the largest part of the rod butt. Then, everything will just slide on from the butt of the rod.

It would take much less time to do this and in the end, no more expensive.

Roger

Somehow the reel seat is cracked, and it has a foregirp.
The butt of the blank is larger that where the seat goes and he wants and exposed blank seat.
Also, I don't like using tape under the reel seats front and back. I don't mind building up the front under the threads a little but not the whole seat.

Thanks guys, alot of good ideas if not for this job, maybe another down the road

Steve

tell him you will do it RIGHT and take the guides off
give him a price if he leaves So be it

You can try the Cut In Half way take the butt cap off and slid a blank up into the rod
Don't know if I would give him a guarantee on it ???
If you can oversleve it and a larger seat
Since the seat is cracked just the seat as an oversleve may crack again

maybe you can build him another and take that one as partial payment plus cash

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/04/2013 08:14AM by bill boettcher.