Have not built a fly rod over a 5 wt in a long time. I am going to do an 8 wt, 9' rod. Would like suggestions.... Stripper size, runner size and reel seat? Will be used a lot from a boat, in brackish waters. Thanks

20, 12, 5, 4, 3s to the tip. All metal reelseat, full wells grip, fighting butt of your choice.

16,10,5 the remainder all minimas no need for more than 3 sizes(this is dependant on your knot sizes and allowing them to pass through the guides). I would go with a graphite seat then no worries on corrosion, lighter, and fit any reel. I would go with a carbon grip which allows you to better feel the rod than other materials.

I build a lot of 8wt rods for saltwater flats. My usual lineup for the guides is 16, 12, 5, 3, 3----->. The 5 and 3 guides I use are single foot wire, or you can use double foot snake guides if you want. Make sure you use SS316 stainless steel guides if you are getting any where near salt. I use an A8 size reel seat, either all metal or with a woven graphite insert, depending on the look I want.

Make it a 4 piece, you will not have a performance penalty and it will travel much better.

I'm with Bob Riggins on his guide sizes, used the same set up on several 8wts. Take a look at the American Tackle AW12 or AW13 series of reel seats with the woven graphite inserts, nice light weight seat and well made. Batson also has some that are similar. I would also go with the 4 piece, they can be stored as a 2 piece also, then broken down further if you need to.

I am with Bob and Bill with regards to sizing. I use titanium strippers then usually go double foot recoils for the snakes if rod will be going in and our of gunwhale rod tubes/racks. Definitely look at the 4 piece if you ever have plans for travel. What blank are you going to build up? Ton of great choices out there.

You don't need that many sizes. You'll get a straighter line path at a little less weight by dropping the 5. But it won't make that much difference.

.............

I personally would use the double foot guides too, especially with regards to being more durable as Todd stated. I also like the TiC framed guides for the stripper and second running guide when building a rod in that line weight and length.
Tom makes a very valid point about dropping the #5 size guide and just going with 3 sizes, it may look a bit odd due to the abrupt change in size but the object is to create the straightest line path for less resistance thru the guides which will result in more distance, especially noted with saltwater casting distances, trout rods, it really doesn't seem to make much of a difference since most don't really need to cast all that far, all that often.
Bottom line, use the smallest size that will pass your connections and the fewest amount of different ring diameters for the best performance.

Steve,
Please unlock your email.
Thanks,
Herb