A long time friend of mine, Ralph O'Quinn, whose products he had me do the majority of testing on before they hit the market, says to use alcohol to clean blanks!!! prior to refinishing. The same holds true for refinishing wraps or wraps that have gone too long between coats. I have done it for over 35 years on rods that someone else finished and I had to refinish due to blemishes in the wraps. The key here is to use a high grade scientific/medical grade denatured alcohol. The only time I ever had a fish eye appear was from using an inferior finish, one that had bubbles that popped during late stages of curing. No one that I know of has ever had to refinish or even re-wrap one of my rods.

You might have been able to sand any Boo Boos off with 400 grit sandpaper dry and recoat
I do it and the next coat looks great

Bill - willierods.com

The key here is to use a high grade scientific/medical grade denatured alcohol

Sounds like it is cheaper to just sand wipe off and redo
That stuff sounds expensive

Bill - willierods.com

I think if you go back and ask Ralph, what he has said is to clean first, then scour/abrade. You never want to use a solvent wipe as the final step in a surface cleaning preparation. It can and often does contaminate the surface.

On a clean surface, there is no reason to use any solvent wipe, regardless.

..................

Bill, not that expensive at all when you consider how well it works, and I bought a 2 gallon jug years ago and still have over a gallon left. Lasts a long time since you have to use so little of it. One other point I would like to make is to never use grocery store or flowered, or scented paper towels for use with your rod building. The have more chemicals than you can imagine and do more to contaminate a good finish than just about anything but skin oil. I use Teri-Towels, also known as Teri-wipes or industrial grade paper that comes on the tan colored rolls. No scents, no contaminates.

Tom hit it. There is little problem with cleaning with DA before sanding, but after sanding you don't want to hit the epoxy with any type of solvent.

I sand my finish and just wipe it off dry
I have also used cheap paper towels and NEVER had a problem with them ????

For that mater -- Do you think the AIR you breath is Clean
I also use rubbing alcohol and never befor finishing i wash dry and then hit with a fine scoff pad

Guess I just live right ???

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/30/2013 10:47PM by bill boettcher.

What Tom said... plain and simple.

Sorry to add this so late but I cant find the gray pads o.ly the green ones would 400 grit sandpaper work or something higher.

I use that all the time Lightly don't need a heavy hand

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks

Paul,

I have a rule of thumb when it comes to painting (epoxy) First dull the shine, clean dull with water, dry air,paint only when dry. Now If you are putting on a second coat, If it is a little tacky put second coat on,( use a plastic stick to check for tacky . NOT tacky ? Use Dull the shine.

I hope that you got it . IF not email me [email protected]

What is life without fishing ?

I like the KISS way of doing things
prep ( however works for you )
Water break free surface -- finish Unless within the time limit Then just refinish

Bill - willierods.com

I have used alcohol to clean sanded wraps before and ended up with a very dull finish. No fish eyes though. I now just wipe them down with a dry cloth or slightly water damp cloth.