If I have to wait a week between coats of finish should I sand?

Yes, scuff it up with a scotch brite pad and re-coat with epoxy.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Thanks

Use the GREY Scotch Brite pads...not the green ones.

Ok. So why not the green. Just want to know.

The green is a different strength of abrasive. It is more abrasive than the green I believe. You could probably use green on epoxy, but I would not use it directly on a blank because it may scratch it.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

I am not sure that sanding or scuffing is really necessary. A wipe with a cloth with some alcohol should clean the surface of any residue or dust that might inhibit bonding of the second coat. You would have to clean sanding dust with alcohol anyway, so why not save an unnecessary step. Try it on a scrap blank, both ways, and see what works.

Thank you, I,m trying to learn as much as I can as quick as I can.

Randolph Ruwe Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I am not sure that sanding or scuffing is really
> necessary. A wipe with a cloth with some alcohol
> should clean the surface of any residue or dust
> that might inhibit bonding of the second coat.
> You would have to clean sanding dust with alcohol
> anyway, so why not save an unnecessary step. Try
> it on a scrap blank, both ways, and see what
> works.


It actually has nothing to do with residue or dust on the surface.

The issue is primary vs. secondary bonding. You have a certain amount of time before the epoxy fully cures to get a primary bond. That is...when the second coat chemicaly bonds to the first coat which forms a single coat just like it was all applied at one time. If that time window passes, you need to form a secondary bond. That means the top coat of epoxy has to fit like a key in a keyhole you make in the base coat. You form the "keyhole" by lightly sanding/scuffing the first coat so the second coat has something to bite into.

The grey pads have a higher grit equivalent than the green pads which help in getting a more fine scuff. Some people say the grey pads also leave less pad fibers behind than the green ones.

Also, do not clean the sanding dust with alcohol...and certainly not with acetone. Just wipe it with a clean, dust free cloth. You're really just after any pad fibers that are left behind. The sanded epoxy will simply blend in.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/29/2013 11:30PM by Jay Lancaster.

What about the red scotchbrites

I have marroon colored ones. They are course grit.

David Dosser
Coshocton, OH

Paul,
As with any type multiple adhesive layers, sanding is always optional.

If you want - sand away.

If you don't - then just recoat.

Your choice.

Many many builders put multiple coats on a rod that are sometimes separated by weeks with no sanding in between.

Others who only have 10 hours between coats do a scuff coat of light sanding.

Your choice

Roger

Once the epoxy has passed a certain stage in its cure, it can tend to repel any additional applications and even if the second goes on well you do certainly end up with two separate layers.

The idea is to create a water-break-free surface on the first application. But don't wipe it with a solvent.

However, if the first application has been on there less than say, a week or so, none of this is critical. Beyond that, you will get better adhesion by a light scouring with very fine scotchbrite.

................

The quickest way I could think of would be put the rod on a quick dryer Cut the pad to fit the size of the wraps As it turns just lay the pad on ( a steady rod) BE CAREFUL NOT TO GO INTO THE THREADS
Whip off with a clean paper towel
Finish

Bill - willierods.com

There is also a blue scotchbrite pad that leaves imperceptibly small scratches. Definitely do not use alcohol. I used to do this and was plagued by fisheyes. Just wipe with a coffee filter or use lightly compressed air to blow the particles away.

I just repaired a rod that the previous builder had applied a second coat of finish. All of the wraps were losing the second coat (flaking off, white/delam of the 2nd coat) in various stages and it was clear that the rod had not been prepped to get a 2nd coat of finish.

If you aren't sure, a light scuffing of the first coat will help ensure good bonding of the 2nd coat. Grey pads work fine for this.

Terry

John,
X10 on NEVER using a solvent between layers.
I made the mistake of doing this on a couple of rods and ended up stripping the rod and re wrapping due to the fish eye issue after using solvent between layers.

I also do agree with Mr. Kirkman's comment on the insurance of maintaining a water break free surface by scuffing lightly with a fine grit pad. Never hurts to be sure.

Roger

To keep from worrying about all this...if I know I'm not going to be able to get to a second coat on in a week or more, I'll try to time my epoxy work where I can do multiple coats in one day. I've done as many as 3 coats in a days time. That may not always be possible which is where the information provided in this thread is important.

Jay,
Another option is to use high build finish and use only one coat.
Then you don't have to worry about multiple coats.

Roger

I messed up on the first coat on the guides had to cut them off I lost 2 of them and had to order more. I am still hopeing
the new ones will come in time to put next coat of finish on before a week has passed. They were micros and I just cant
figure out what happened to them. Thanks for all your replys.