What's the best way you guys have found to counter bore a custom fly grip for a recessed hood reel seat?

I'd like to do it after the grip is turned, and align it with the bore to ensure it is concentric with the grip.

Thanks - Marc

Keep it simple - that's all I can handle!

I do it on my lathe. I put the grip back on the mandrel and with a very small gouge countersink the end. I finish with a light sanding and done. You can also do with a forcner bit but I only have (2) and it does not seam to be as accurate as I do not own a steady rest.

There is a product called Crafty's Cutter that I use. I use it with a battery drill and it has not failed me yet.

I pre-drill the last ring on the lathe, prior to gluing up with the rest of the grip. I've tried it on the lathe after the grip is done like Eric but I didn't like the amount of runout I saw so this process gives me a better fit. I use a forstner bit for this but I intend to move to the process that Flexcoat shows on their video by modifying spade bits. I'm going to make a wooden fixture to mount on the lathe, then the spade bit to make the recess.

Terry

I use nothing but the crafty's cutter on all my cork handles, even the recess on non fly rod grips if I want to install a button, or other recessed item into them. For my wooden grips, I use a pen barrel trimmer and then a Dremel to enlarge it to size.

Ron Weber

Dan Craft Crafty Cutter for me also.

I've been trying to buy a Crafty Cutter but it has been on back order for 2 months.

the method I use is for wood grips for rubberized cork or cork I outline it with pen and hit it wiht the dremmel tool, nice finish in a few minutes time. Sorry for some reason I was thinking you were talking wood here my fault.

Here is a picture of the system that I use:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I have built several steady rests for the times that I use my full length rod lathe.

This ball bearing steady rest makes an excellent support to insure a perfect fit on the counter bore.

I will first use a center boring 60 degree drill to insure that the hole is perfectly centered.
Then, I will use the correct sized drill, or fostner bit to finish the work.

Be safe
Roger

I also use a pen barrel trimmer and then a Dremel with either a sanding ring or a stone to enlarge it to size.
I use both a hand drill or chuck in in the lathe. Both work well.

Larry

This is how I do it, though it may not be the best way.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Greg
Aptos, California



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2013 01:42PM by Greg Foy.

This is how I do it on the lathe using spade bits.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

My poor mans lath does not work as a REAL lath Ha Ha
Got to get me a set of hole saws

Bill - willierods.com

I use a hole saw after I shape the grip, but I find that it tears out around the edges, especially since my cork is only about 1/16" thick around the hood. I've been using a 7/8" saw which fits perfectly, but I think going smaller, 3/4" or 13/16" if I can find it would elimate that tearout if I just enlarged it with a dremel after. Aside from that, it seems to be a good system.

there was a post here that a builder would I think it was grind or file the outer edge on them beleve he said it did not rip after

Picked up a couple of different size hole saws ran a file over the out side of them then some sandpaper so they are smooth
Drilled a ring -- Works great

Now just got to get a longer rod to replace the drill so it runs true to the handle

Thank you Greg Foy

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/28/2013 08:26AM by bill boettcher.