Just curious about how other rod builders get a clean edge when using epoxy on guide thread wraps or other types of wraps?? Anyone ever use the blue painters tape wrapped on the rod to try to get that perfect clean edge? very curious, mine are good, but want them to be better.Thanks for the input.

A quick RPM turner and a Hand Holder to keep you hand steady

Bill - willierods.com

Do not use painter's tape...or any other paper tape. They will absorb epoxy and you'll end up with a messier edge that what you are already getting.

If you have a power wrapper, speed is your friend. If you are a hand wrapper, a steady hand perched on a hand rest is your best bet.

Apply finish at 50 rpm and you have dead clean edges.
Roger

Hold you hand steady and just rotate the rod under the loaded brush. It's that easy.

.................

X2 on Tom's statement, but I would add that you do this hand rotation quickly, not slowly and you will have much better results. A fast RPM motor will work as well, but I apply my finish by hand, before putting it on the dryer so this seems to work for me.

If you must clean up an edge after the finish is applied, you can soak a coffee filter in alcohol, and lay it against the edge of the finish as it rotates. You get better results learning the other techniques though.

Terry

What Tom said is absolutely correct. I use the best quality Sable Hair brush that I can find. I don't use power, but hand rotate the rod while applying finish. Go slowly and thorougly and you won't have any problems.

In contrast to Randolph's comments, I use 3 cent throw away brushes to apply finish.
My point is that, as has been posted by others, is that the brush is not really used to apply finish. Rather the loaded brush is simply held against the spinning rod and the finish flows off the brush, without ever having the brush touch the rod. So, no need for an expensive brush.

Equally good results are obtained by those that are proficient in the use of a spatula to apply finish. i.e. the piece of metal is held close to the rod and the finish flows off the metal spatula to apply. Again, the actual finish holder does not actually touch the rod.

Good luck
Roger

Thanks all. I use Toms method, just trying to get better at it. I guess practice is the key

The goal here is to get the material to the rod so it can self-level, not use the brush to paint the finish on. If you attempt to paint the finish on, you will introduce bubbles to the finish - this is, I think, why some recommend using expensive artists brushes as these brushes will introduce fewer and smaller bubbles as they spread the finish around, but if you don't attempt to do so in the first place, the $.03 disposable brush or spatula Roger refers to are all you need. I’ll share my evolutionary process towards finishing over half-a-lifetime of rodbuilding.

When I was young, I was able to get a nice edge by turning the rod with one hand and holding a brush mid air with the other hand. As I got older and began to suffer from the myriad of problems that come with aging, I needed to begin using a hand rest for my brush hand as I continued to turn the rod. Eventually, I had to commit the second hand to help hold the brush which meant I needed to turn the rod under power. This was a difficult step for me to transition to because I had become accustomed to having to fuss over the finish, spreading here, and leveling there and not allowing the epoxy to do the work by itself. When I finally got used to the rod turning under power, I realized just how unnecessary and counterproductive all the brush work I used to do was. I began to finish rods in half the time with better edges than ever by not attempting to paint on the finish or spread it around with the brush. But eventually, my failing abilities forced me to adapt again.

Eventually the continuous speed dryer became an obstacle for me and I found there were times I just had to stop or slow the speed to match my declining skill set. A slip clutch on the continuous motor gave me a few more good years, but it was not the best solution because in order to get the rod to slow or stop while the motor continued to turn, I had to use one hand to grab the rod. I needed a better solution; I found it in my power wrapper.

The big advantage the power wrapper gave me is that I can keep both hands on the hand rest holding my brush and spatula and I can get the exact speed I need to get the finish where it needs to go. I can work very slowly near the guide stems, I can pause to get finish under the stem of the guides without smearing a glob on the guide stems themselves, and I can spin it at 50 or so rpm to get that perfect edge transition to the blank with my spatula.

My finishes are now easier than ever to apply, and the quality is as good as when I was a kid despite the effects of aging I suffer from (poor eye sight, arthritis, trembles in hand and fingers, etc.)

I guess the reason I wrote all this is because I wish someone would have showed me how easy power wrapper finishing is to do 35 years ago.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/17/2013 11:30AM by John E Powell.

Thanks John, know what you mean about aging.Everything shakes

One thing I do that works is wrap Scotch Tape where I want the edge. Just make sure the tape is pressed on the blank with no bubbles especially where the tape overlaps. I let it turn and dry fo about an hour then slowly pull the tape off. Most of the time I Just eyeball it but if I want a spot on edge tape helps.

a few beers prior to applying takes away a shaky hand!

A piece of scrap blank with eva glued on one or both ends to rest the hand on

Bill - willierods.com