I need to redo my rods , wha't is the best way? use contact glue or epoxy as my binding cement with sanding belts cut up need some input please
thanks SID

I simply use various sizes of circular files - chucked into a variable speed drill - turning backwards against the direction of the file spiral.
Easy, quick and never wears out.

Roger

I've made a couple of these. I used a 60-grit belt for a belt sander and cut it into 8mm wide strips. I glued it on using contact glue and its worked really well.

I found it easier to get my father to help me, by holding the rod and slowly turning it, while I firmly laid the strip into place, ensuring a nice evenly spaced spiral. Its one of those times when you can really use an extra set of hands.

Dale

I use two items, Double Cut circular files, the same as Roger, you can find these files with Hex end on them, just like a driver attachment. They work great when you run the drill in reverse. Also use the Batson Dream Reamer kit to final fit if the diameter of the files I have does not get me all the way there.

I made my own using strips of sand paper (sold in most hw stores or harbor freight) - they come in 20 foot long rolls 1/2" wide. I epoxied the strips to metal arbors (drill rods) from home depot & chuck them into a drill press. In 3 years of augering out various material I've only replaced the paper once.

I believe Flex Coat has a video on making these Check them out They do
[www.flexcoat.com]

Bill - willierods.com

The really nice thing to do, is what many rod manufacturers do.
They design a rod, with a given blank and handle.
Then, they take the measurements to a machine shop and have the machine shop make them a tapered reamer that is an exact match for the blank and the grip.

The reamer is chucked into a drill press with a 20 inch stroke.
The grip is stood on and and in one pass the reamer does a perfect job of reaming the grip. It likely takes one to two seconds to perfectly ream the grip per rod when making up a batch of a thousand or two thousand identical rods.

Then, it makes sense to pay the $$$$$$$$$ for the custom machine work for the perfect tapered reamer.

Be safe
Roger

I don't think he is making 1000 rods

Bill - willierods.com

Bill,
Of course not.
But, if you do go out and do some searches, you can often find nice machinest reamers for a decent price on the used market.
If so, thesevery long lasting metal reamers make very quick work of reaming a grip.

Roger

Making them out of scrap blanks are --- I would think -- a lot cheaper And work VERY well No need for a machined tapered reamer Scrap blanks work well A lot cheaper And you can make any size needed for a given handle or seat ID size As needed
I also glue one inside another to make them stiffer

Come on -- It's a fishing rod

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/28/2012 04:46PM by bill boettcher.

I found that it works better for me if i dont glue the sand paper to the scrap blank all i do is tape it at the top on an angle that gives a nice channel between the wrapped sand paper this helps by giving the material a place to go. Once im happy with how the sand paper is laying i wrap the but end with a couple of wraps of masking tape and it holds pretty snug. Not glueing makes it super easy to change out the paper but the stuff lasts for ages anyway.

Cheers

Mark Newcombe
Old Bar NSW
Australia
markscustomfishing.com
American Tackle Pro-Staff

I have made a number, about 1 dozen different sized reaming rods out of scrap blanks. I used #60 grit carborundum granuales/particles, what ever you wish to call them. Spread them out on a piece of wax paper, coated the scrap blank of the proper size with epoxy, the rolled the rod section through the grit. Make sure the blank is well sanded so the epoxy and grit adhere, then chuck it in to your rod dryer to turn until cured. When needed, I use carbide or SS burrs chucked into my lathe for special cork or EVA boring, you just have to be careful that it doesn't grab the cork or other material out of your hand.

Darn - I forgot ... I spiral wrap the sandpaper onto the metal rods leaving a gap between the spirals. This seems to clear the removed material.

another way is to use golf club shafts,,cut the head and the grip off and grind the small end to remove the chrome finish,this will fit in a drill chuck nicely,I used 2 sided tape to adhere the sandpaper to the shaft,golf club shafts made of steel work best and they are cheap and they are already tapered,,,you can usually find old golf clubs at yard sales.I also build golf clubs.

Randolph, what kind of epoxy do you use in the method you described above?

Thanks!

Scott

"My biggest fear in life is that when I die, my wife will sell my fishing gear for what I said I paid for it."