Anyone have any thoughts on the pros vs cons for a drum or rack dryer. Ive been knocking out several 2 piece rods lately and would find it beneficial to have a way to dry multiple sections or rods at the same time. Looking to build something but unsure which may or may not be the best.

My first thoughts are that the drum system is the way to go. It can be built to hold whatever number of rods you desire and I could potentially hang it up on the wall out of my way. Just curious what I may be missing regarding the rack drying system.


thanks

The only "drawback" is the size (diameter) of the drum. If you have the room this IMO is the way to go

The only other drawback to a drum is you will have to build yourself.

Hydra Fishing, LLC

Online: [www.hydrafishing.com]
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Email: info@hydrafishing.com

Casey,
I have built several drum dryers, both for myself as well as others. I like them very much, simply because of the small amount of room that they take.
The drums that I use are 12 inches in diameter and nicely hold 12 rods.

I will attach a couple of pictures:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.rodbuilding.org]

The first picture illustrates the end supports and motor assembly.
The 2nd picture illustrates the drums.
The 3rd picture illustrates the dryer set up as it were being used.

I use 1 inch square aluminum tubing. 1 - light weight and strength in the thin wall tubing. 2 - with a square tube, the drums can not turn on the square tube.

Just make the drums, cut square holes in the center.
The bearing end, simply uses a bearing pressed into the end support to support the rotating drums.
The motor end - has the motor mounted to the end support. Then, there is a threaded rod inserted into the end of the square tubing that lets a drill chuck screw onto the end of the thread. Then, the drill chuck simply tightens down on the motor shaft. So, very quick and easy to knock down the dryer if not being used. Also, very easy to swap out a motor if a motor fails on the dryer.

Both of the different motor setups shown, use DC low voltage gear motors to turn the dryer. Inexpensive, easy to use a plug in power supply to power the motor and very quiet motors.


The finish is applied using the variable speed power rod wrapper and when perfect, the dryer is momentarily stopped, the rod is moved to the dryer and strapped down with rubber bands, and the dryer is turned back on.

I also have a couple different length square shafts - for the times that I am building long rods , or building ice fishing rods where I don't need the longer length.

p.s.
If you have any interest - I do have 4 more prototype drums available for you at a reasonable cost if interested. I made several prototype drums before going to my final design.

If you have any interest - just drop me an e-mail at

hflier@comcast.net

Roger

roger wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Casey,
> I have built several drum dryers, both for myself
> as well as others. I like them very much, simply
> because of the small amount of room that they
> take.
> The drums that I use are 12 inches in diameter and
> nicely hold 12 rods.
>
> I will attach a couple of pictures:
>
> [www.rodbuilding.org]
> /photo/9042/title/portable-drum-dryerno-disks/cat/
> 500

>
> [www.rodbuilding.org]
> /photo/9044/title/portable-drum-dryer-disks-on-bar
> /cat/500
>
> [www.rodbuilding.org]
> /photo/9045/title/portable-rod-dryerassembled/cat/
> 500
>
> The first picture illustrates the end supports and
> motor assembly.
> The 2nd picture illustrates the drums.
> The 3rd picture illustrates the dryer set up as it
> were being used.
>
> I use 1 inch square aluminum tubing. 1 - light
> weight and strength in the thin wall tubing. 2 -
> with a square tube, the drums can not turn on the
> square tube.
>
> Just make the drums, cut square holes in the
> center.
> The bearing end, simply uses a bearing pressed
> into the end support to support the rotating
> drums.
> The motor end - has the motor mounted to the end
> support. Then, there is a threaded rod inserted
> into the end of the square tubing that lets a
> drill chuck screw onto the end of the thread.
> Then, the drill chuck simply tightens down on the
> motor shaft. So, very quick and easy to knock down
> the dryer if not being used. Also, very easy to
> swap out a motor if a motor fails on the dryer.
>
> Both of the different motor setups shown, use DC
> low voltage gear motors to turn the dryer.
> Inexpensive, easy to use a plug in power supply to
> power the motor and very quiet motors.
>
>
> The finish is applied using the variable speed
> power rod wrapper and when perfect, the dryer is
> momentarily stopped, the rod is moved to the dryer
> and strapped down with rubber bands, and the dryer
> is turned back on.
>
> I also have a couple different length square
> shafts - for the times that I am building long
> rods , or building ice fishing rods where I don't
> need the longer length.
>
> p.s.
> If you have any interest - I do have 4 more
> prototype drums available for you at a reasonable
> cost if interested. I made several prototype drums
> before going to my final design.
>
> If you have any interest - just drop me an e-mail
> at
>
> hflier@comcast.net
>
> Roger


Ill shoot you a message

thanks

I built a drum dryer due to space limitations for a rod building class I teach, and it works really great. I bought a 24" piece of 8" diameter furnace pipe at the local Home Depot. I cut off the crimped portion, leaving about 22" of straight metal. Then I cut two round 8" wood end pieces. I drilled holes in the center of each of the wood end pieces and inserted a PVC pipe about 26" long. To allow for different lengths of rod sections, I got another 30" pipe with a smaller diameter than the PVC and inserted that in one end (picture an expandable shower curtain rod). To avoid the smaller pipe flexing, I used a copper pipe. For the turning motor, I use the AmTac dryer and rod stand (available through Mud Hole and others). One end of the PVC pipe gets attached at the motor chuck and the other rests on the rod stand. (Note: Because of the diameter of the drum, I need to put some wood blocks under the motor and stand to get clearance.) It allows me to dry four 9" 4-piece rods at a time. What I use to hold the blank sections to the drum for drying are rectangular pieces of EVA foam with slot cut into them. On the bottom of each piece of foam I glued an earth magnet. Because the entire drum is metal, this allows me to position the foam pieces and sections of the rod anywhere I wanted.

If you need to see pictures, send me an email at dfowler82@gmail.com.

Dave Fowler

Dave Fowler Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I built a drum dryer due to space limitations for
> a rod building class I teach, and it works really
> great. I bought a 24" piece of 8" diameter
> furnace pipe at the local Home Depot. I cut off
> the crimped portion, leaving about 22" of straight
> metal. Then I cut two round 8" wood end pieces. I
> drilled holes in the center of each of the wood
> end pieces and inserted a PVC pipe about 26" long.
> To allow for different lengths of rod sections, I
> got another 30" pipe with a smaller diameter than
> the PVC and inserted that in one end (picture an
> expandable shower curtain rod). To avoid the
> smaller pipe flexing, I used a copper pipe. For
> the turning motor, I use the AmTac dryer and rod
> stand (available through Mud Hole and others).
> One end of the PVC pipe gets attached at the motor
> chuck and the other rests on the rod stand.
> (Note: Because of the diameter of the drum, I need
> to put some wood blocks under the motor and stand
> to get clearance.) It allows me to dry four 9"
> 4-piece rods at a time. What I use to hold the
> blank sections to the drum for drying are
> rectangular pieces of EVA foam with slot cut into
> them. On the bottom of each piece of foam I glued
> an earth magnet. Because the entire drum is metal,
> this allows me to position the foam pieces and
> sections of the rod anywhere I wanted.
>
> If you need to see pictures, send me an email at
> dfowler82@gmail.com.
>
> Dave Fowler

Email sent

thanks

Here is a short video of the 12 rod drum dryer in action - drying 11 rods for an expected delivery:

[www.amazon.com]


Roger

That looks really Well made! It does look Easy to build

Thanks Barry,
It is not bad to build except for making the templates for the drums.
I suppose that I must have made a dozen templates before I had it right. Then, I spent a couple more hours figuring out the best tooling to do the cutting.

After that, it was a pretty simple thing to do.

One thing that worked very slick for this project was the circle cutting jig that I made for my band saw. Set up the diameter of the circle, and start pushing the jig through the saw and a perfect circle comes out the other side.

The rest of the dryer was pretty straight forward. Just straight cuts on the miter saw and smoothing the ends on the disk sander.

A bit of work was involved in machining the parts for the ends of the tube - but not difficult if you have the right tools.

Take care and have a happy and safe holiday.

Roger

Saw this on Rodbuildingforum.com and does look Eay to Build. Built by Jerry Andrews

[www.bamboorodmaking.com]