Can you clean the rod with alcahol between coats of finish? I ask this because when i put on second coat there
was a spot that seemd to repel the finish.I had to keep putting on globs of finish
and wicking them off.I had to do it at least 10 times.

I don't think alcohol will expel the finish, it must be contamination of some sort, you might need to try to clean the wrap before the next coat, but I would make sure the epoxy on wrap is not sticky, or it might make a mess, I am sure you will get more responses, I'm just a beginner, but I know by experience the alcohol won't expel the finish.have a good one.

Paul,
Really really bad idea to put any kind of liquid on a finish between coats.
If you have a spot that is repelling finish, you are much better off using scuff coat, or 600 sand paper to scuff up the spot. Then, tack off the spot with blue low tack masking tape.

Good luck
Roger

I agree with roger. Since i stopped using alcohol to clean between coats, I no longer have a fish eye problem. If I feel the need to scuff between coats, I use a blue scotch brite pad (for sale at the supermarket) that doesn't leave visible scratches. I then use a tack cloth to remove the residue, which is really slight with the blue pad. I stopped using blue tape, because I found some of the tackiness to leave a residue.

I use a heat gun (held about a foot away and swept from side to side) for the first few minutes and voila, no bubbles.

Thanks for the tips, I did finaly get it to stick.I thought it might be oil from my hands.

Why would any one clean between coats ???
if any dust just Brush it with a soft brush and recoat Any Bo Bo's scoff with a fine pad or 320 - 400 dry paper and recoat
if you are getting a lot of dust Before you clear -- spray the area with a spray bottle and water to help keep dust down

I MAY just whip with a dry paper towel

Bill - willierods.com

Alcohol is not pure, there are additives, don't use it on epoxy, it only creates problems.

I have never had a problem applying finish to a blank that has been cleaned with Iso. It's one of the steps needed to remove excess adhesive when using the Pulsar dry transfer decal system. Others on the board do the same thing.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

That might be my problem i just checked the rod and there are like pits in the finish along the edge of a decal.

The Pulsar system uses Sulky KK2000 spray adhesive to apply a dry transfer decal. You wouldn't have to remove adhesive with water slide or peel & stick decals.

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

I didnt spray anthing on the rod this decal came with my MHX blank it shows length,action,etc.

With peel and stick decals, it's always best to coat with Krylon fixative or CP prior to finishing. I always had issues around the label edges with fish eyes and wavy finish before I started the pre-coat with CP or Krylon. You can fix by buffing and recoating as suggested.

Terry

Thanks Terry i will try the cp on next build. I already buffed it and recoated it seems to be working.