Hi guys, I've got several questions for you. I'm using micro guides on a hydra blank (7'6") flipping stick and I'm finding it very difficult to use the guide adhesive effectively. The directions say to use a thin film, but I did that and on my static test they didn't hold. I then re-attached them using more, which did work, save one guide. What is the best way to attach these little PITAs (using kigan guides #4, #6, and butt guide #8)? I also tried orthodontic rubber bands...when I put the rod under stress they all slid and became a spiral wrap..lol. It was actually quite nice, the line didn't touch the rod at any point and the only thing I'd have had to move would have been the tip top! :) OK, OK...#1: Best way to secure micro guides to perform static load test. #2: Best way to make sure they are all aligned properly? (Laser?) #3: Do you need to sand the micro guides prior to wrapping? Thanks in advance guys/gals. Matt

Strips of masking tape. You can get very thin tape.

When static testing I only attache the wieght to the tip top and run the line though the guides this way the rod flexs but there is no load on the guides. MUCH easier this way. You can sand the guide feet just a bit it will help the thread from "sliding" off the feet. I will noramly run the file across the micros a few times for that reason only. The little guys slip out easy! this seams to help me. I take a piece of tape on the edge of my desk and use my tying scissors to cut it up to 1/16 strips and it sits there, when I need to hold a guide or thread or guide I have it.

Lazer, I do not have one but use the light as my guide. Light will reflect along a strait line on the blank and you can use this as a guide as well.

Best of luck!

OK. How do you attach the weight to the tip top only? What do you attach the line running through the guides to? I'm frustrated and confused! I just want to be able to adjust the guides as necessary once I see how the guides look upon stressing the rod. Adhesive doesn't seem to offer a simple solution, because you'd have to remove them and reapply adhesive upon moving them. This is made more difficult, because the line is running through the guides. With the micros it appears difficult to line them up because of the size. That's the only reason I mentioned the use of a laser, because it may be easier to line them up with reference. Ugh!

Hi Matt,
I'm with Eric on the static test, weight to the tip only then run the line through the guides and wind it up until it is just tight but doesn't exert any pressure on the guides. I use round sewing elastic to fix the guides to the blank. It's easy to move them around and a lot lot easier to use than masking tape IMO. To line them up I just eyeball them from both sides of the blank until I'm happy. I always take a bit off the toe of micros to ensure the thread goes over them easily.
Good luck with the first build but your taking a difficult route with micros. They get a lot easier to use after two or three rods. Don't forget it's an ADDICTIVE hobby.
Get the tip glued on straight with respect to the reel seat then tie some line to the tip then attach it to something like a bucket of water and load the rod no more than 90 degrees. It's better if you are a bit of distance from the bucket and not over the top.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/16/2012 08:32PM by Col Chaseling.

Matt,

When static testing, I tie a piece of line to my weight, and then tie the other end directly to the tip top. To see the line path, run the line from the reel through all of the guides, and tie that line to a small sinker. It only takes enough to pull the slack out of the line. To keep the guides in place while static testing, I use small 4" cable ties. They hold tight enough for test casting, and if you don't cinch them down too tight, you can slide the guides around a fair bit as needed. This is what works for me, but everyone has their own preferences. There are many ways to skin this cat.

Joe

That makes more sense than what I was trying to do. I guess I misunderstood how to perform a static test. I've read quite a lot on this forum and others, but sometimes it's nice to have a visual to accompany what you read. Thank you very much for the information you have provided. It's greatly appreciated. I was going to try and find some smaller tubing to hold the guides, but cable ties sound like a good idea as well. I knew micros would be a challenge for a first build, but I'm patient and willing to work at it until it's right.

Comments deleted



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 05:39PM by John E Powell.

Matt;
Eric, and Joe have given you some good advise. I and going to offer some more that may help as well.
I prefer tape. buy mine from auto parts store that sells 1/16 inch wide tape for pin stripping, saves having to cut it thinner with razor. Hold great during testing and thin enough to allow for enough thread wraps up the guide ft before removing.
Note: Always pull the tape off in the direction of the foots point, pulling towards the neck or tip of the rod can pull the guide out from under the few wraps started.

My biggest piece of advise (even though some may disagree) is to NOT!! use the guide adhesive.
It may help hold the guides on while testing/wrapping.

But will also allow the guides to pull out easier under the pressure and strain of pulling fish out from structure and grass.
By preventing the epoxy from adhering the to the bottom of the guide ft & blank connection and also restricting the epoxy from filling tunnels completely. It may not matter as much on lighter rods for lighter applications, But can be a problem for work horse rods.

Apply your epoxy as quickly as possible while it is at its thinnest. Even if you need to mix two separate batches to accomplish this, until you get faster at applying it.
As it starts thickening; it will not wick into the thread and tunnels completely allowing for air pockets. Which will allow for movement of the guides in the wraps leading to loosening in the future and eventual pull out of the guides.

When we first started working with Micro guides, some were having a challenge with guide pull-out and after much testing I found this to be one of main the causes.

I also suggest starting epoxy application at the tip and working back, so your epoxy is at it's thinnest while being applied to the smallest guides.

Thank you for all the input! I appreciate it!