Clearly each has to be "good enough" (whatever that means). The choices would be easy if cost wasn't an object. Alas, it is the real world and money does matter.

So how do you allocate money on your personal builds? Pretend money is tight but you want something "good enough for the long haul". Would you skimp on the components or the blank? Where would you draw a line and say, "I refuse to use less than this quality. My time is too valuable and I wouldn't be satisfied. I'd rather skip a few meals and save a little longer."?

Remember we are talking your personal rod and you want a nice one. Keep it current production offerings and normal store pricing. To appeal to all here, lets call it a saltwater inshore rod as it is a nice middle ground blank that both fresh and saltwater guys use.

I could set a budget but I'd rather hear your ideas on what someone needs to spend.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

That's tough. Why put high end components on a low end blank, or use a high end blank and saddle it with low end components?

Of course, blanks and components, even fairly inexpensive ones, have gotten so much better in the past few years it's almost hard to go wrong unless you go out of your way to source bad stuff.

................

I found out a long time ago, when building Guitars, that it took just as long to make a piece of junk as it did to make a good one. My advice would be, get the best blank and components you can afford, years from now you will be glad you did.

Jim Upton Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I found out a long time ago, when building
> Guitars, that it took just as long to make a piece
> of junk as it did to make a good one. My advice
> would be, get the best blank and components you
> can afford, years from now you will be glad you
> did.

X2

Comments deleted



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 05:40PM by John E Powell.

I'd be skipping a few meals - I'm pretty sure I can (should) afford to miss a couple LOL! On the other hand both blanks and components have improved significantly in quality in the median price range - or prices have not really leapt up the way other goods / commodities have (like fuel for instance or compared against consumer price indexes). As a simplified example a graphite reel seat from the 1970's cost around $3.50 but few had the plastic inserts as most do today and the material (wall thickness) was thinner / more brittle and the cost (on sale or off an @#$%& site) today can be in the $5.00 -$6.00 range. In the past the saltwater "standard" was chrome over brass & the price was pretty steep by comparison to today's marine grade aluminum or graphite / aluminum hybrid seats. Spools of thread were also insignificantly less expensive than they are today - and the types / varieties were fairly limited in comparison to what people use today.
Better to put away a couple of dollars and buy good components that match what you want to build than go on the cheap



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/15/2012 09:24PM by Ken Preston.

For me personally, the most important thing is the blank. I have to find the one with the right action, power, weight, durability in order to perform the task at hand. I would not skimp on a blank at all...especailly if you are already used to fishing with a certain type of blank, you cannot downgrade or when you are using the rod you are not going to be happy. I couldn't imagine being used to a high end graphite rod, and moving to a glass or cheap composite blank - I'd never want to use the rod.

Guides - imo people spend so much money on guides when they do not have to. If cost was a factor, I would be using Amtak Duralites and not break a sweat worrying about performance. IMO, the guide rings are the biggest waste of money..Duralite, Nanolite - for me and the fishing I do there is no noticeable difference. Same with Alconite and SIC, the only way I can tell these apart is how much they cost and the marketting hype and "prestige" of having a "better" ring material. When fishing, can't tell. Titanium is a luxury and for me not neccesary, I wash my rods, and even if I didn't the amount of rust/discoloration that occurs on guides is next to nothing and doesn't affect performance.

Reel seats cost the same thing, and handle materials - EVA is cheap, and preformed cork can be found at a discount. Cork rings are not a neccesity.

I build my own rods using the best available like great qual blanks matagi bling etc etc. I usually buy the stuff bit by bit usually putting aside some profit from each build and addind bits and pieces to customers orders to keep the shipping down you end up with the best and you never look down and the rod and wish.

Cheers

Mark Newcombe
Old Bar NSW
Australia
markscustomfishing.com
American Tackle Pro-Staff

If the issue is money, which it typically is, get the best possible blank. The guides and other components can always be changed out, but the blank is always the same.

I like to use the best that's avaialble for the intended purpose then you can have no regrets. If you haven't got the cash then save until you do. X 3 on Jim Uptons comments.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

There are so many componets to choose from you can find value and quality. For big fish on a trip I may not be able to do again for a long time I won't skimp on the reel fly or other wise and I tell people not to skimp on fly lines I've had cheap ones but never again.

Mike

I agree on spending the money on the blank, if it is necessary to spend more money to get the blank that works for you.

Remember, blanks, and rod components do not necessarily equate more money to doing a better job for you.

For myself, a fishing rod is a tool. It is a tool to catch more fish more easily.

Virtually all of the guides sold today will work just fine for nearly any fishing situation. i.e. obviously light guides for light rod fishing and heavier guides for heavier power and heavier fishing

But, as far as ring type is concerned, I find virtually no difference in the casting distance, or the wear factor of the guide. Certainly some guides are lighter than others.

With respect to reel seats, as long as you have a reel seat that will hold up for the use you intend it - why spend more?

Summary -
Spend the necessary money on the guide that is most suitable for the rod you need to catch the fish that you want to catch.

Spend the necessary money to put components on the rod that will cast line like you want, wear the amount you want, and have the weight you want.

No need to spend any more money than that.


But, certainly if you want "in your face" factor - then by all means put on $20 per guide components and $50 per reel seat components.



There is one thing that I personally like on every rod that I build and that is - if appropriate- a very nice cork handle.
However, the big issue with cork - is that "quality cork" is getting more and more difficult to obtain at any price. So, one has to begin looking at other options for a grip - things like carbon, flocking etc.

Good luck
Roger

Thank you for your comments gentlemen. I agree that a balance is needed when matching parts to the blank. I have found that buying a bunch of the "best" items, with no regards to how they work together, is the quickest way to build junk.

It is easy to say buy the best available. I'm not certain that is so easy to ascertain. Building only for myself I won't see the numbers of blanks that many here will. Maybe if I did the "best" would be more clear cut.

In most areas there is some reasonable relationship between cost and performance, up to a certain level, and then one pays increasingly more for the last few remaining percentage points of performance. For me, that defines the point of diminishing returns. I suppose I am asking for advice on where that line is. I reckon I am fickle. I know I can't afford the best but I strongly feel I can't afford to buy anything but the best at a "reasonable" price.

I'm always reluctant to name names. I just doesn't seem proper but I'm going to do so despite that. Baston has been good to me. My first was a composite live bait RX6. Very nice blank for the money. My next move up their ladder was a RX7 steelhead blank. It was certainly a better blank. This time I wanted a popping blank and a deal on a XP964 presented itself. It arrived on Friday evening and first impressions are favorable. Now is this blank anywhere near the point of diminishing returns? Should I have skipped a few meals and held out for a NFC/CTS/SCV? If you had to name a name, which is the best popping blank out there?

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

My favorite popping rod is built on a G Loomis GLX blank and my second favorite is on a Lamiglas XMG blank. Unforunately, the former is no longer available. Fortunately, the latter is. Look at the Lamiglas LP843 and LP844. Angler's Workshop carries the entire lineup and they are VERY pleasant to do business with.

Russ,
Any of the RX8 blanks by Batson - are really VERY nice.

Roger

I think that for most freshwater rods all the components will work quite well regardless of price. They may not look as good, but almost all will work fine. I think the biggest opportunity is in guides where even the cheapest guides will probably last forever. Put a premium tiptop on, however-that's the one that will get grooved or have a ring broken. But you HAVE to have the right blank or it will just not work.

There is no reason to keep to current productions. I have over the last few weeks glued up and shaped 30 handles on rod blanks dating from 20 to 30 years ago. Namely, J Kennedy Fisher, Phillipson, 3M Scientific Anglers, Clearwater Black Graphite to just name a few. I stress tested the blanks before starting to work on them and they are every bit as good as the day they were made. I haven't bought a new blank in 20 years, mainly because I still have about 250 still in stock since I wasn't able to build rods for quite a few years. But don't think an older blank wouldn't be a good choice. The Rodon Boron/Graphite fly blanks are my all time favorite. I still have several, and won't part with them.

Hi,

I think we are missing an ingredient. It is what you can do with the bag of goodies that is important. A good wine maker can make good wine with so so grapes and a better wine with good grapes. A bad winemaker will make lousy wine with so so grapes and so so wine with good grapes.

It is nice to build using very high quality blanks/components. We are fortunate today that we can get good blanks/components on sale that when used properly with provide a rod that will be a pleasure to hook and reel fish in.

Stay within your means and build the best rod you can. Good design is the secret.

Capt Neil Faulkner

Russell,
I think that a very big part of the equation is simply this:
What is best?

This post is about using the best blank, using the best components etc.

I have seen rods built with guides that cost $15 per guide. Then, I have seen the same rod built with $1.50 guides.

From both a function and use point of view - I have found that the rods are essentially identical.


So, just because one rod uses more expensive components - does not necessarily mean that these are the best components. It just means that they are the most expensive components.

So, as I said at the beginning of the post, expensive does not mean the best for a given task.

Just be careful as you go about your job of building rods, that you don't get the two mixed up. i.e. cost and usage.

Be safe
Roger

Roger, I wish the guides were "only" 15 bucks. Try $50 for a size 30 to near $100 for a size 50 stripper. That is a lot....even by stripper standards....LOL!

Russ in Hollywood, FL.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/17/2012 03:10PM by Russell Brunt.