Does perma gloss need to be rotated like epoxy once applied, or can it be used like a varnish and just be brushed on to let dry?

Hi Gerald,
Doesn't need to be rotated for drying but it can be easier to apply if it's rotating, depending on what your covering. A foam brush is good for coating but it needs to hold enough to do the coating in one go. Tom's the guru with the stuff and he will chime in.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

It sets very quickly as long as there is some humidity present in the room. Generally it will be set sufficiently so that it will not run or sag within just a few minutes.

You cannot apply it very thickly, however.

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Very quickly is an understatement. I found it to set while it is being applied. There is no going over it at all. Your skills have to be spot on to apply with enough on the brush to finish a guide in one pass without lifting it off the wrap. I'm not there yet.

I have also finished a rod with spar urethane. Much more forgiving than PG. Thinner but with a longer drying time. The finish looks identical when complete. The rod has been fished heavily and flexed to the limit for two years and there is no cracking at all.

I predict that if you use PG vs two-part finishes it will not take you long to abandon the PG. makes for a lousy looking wrap - unless applied thick with many coats the threads are not protected from abraision well at all. And - if you do apply it thick it will not be smooth and flat - rather it will be wavy.
Just my $.02
Speaking from experience. Re wrapped all my PG wraps. Or at least coated them over with a two-part finish.
Herb

I have used Perma Gloss for over 30 years and have never had any problems like those described above. I have always turned the rod by hand while applying and have used a loaded brush so that the finish penetrates and saturates the thread. You do need to keep the rod rotating after you have applied the last of the finish to the rod, and I usually keep it rotating for 2-3 hours. Only very thin coats don't need to be rotated for an hour or two, and even they should be turned 90 degrees every 5 to 10 minutes. Allow to cure for at least 24 hours before putting on a second coat.

No it won't look like epoxy, but it will protect the threads like all get out. Try sanding a thread wrap that has 4 or 5 coats of PG on it. It's like sanding a rock. PG is much, much harder than epoxy and yet more flexible and water white clear.

It's just a different look, more like the old varnished wraps of old. Not really designed nor intended for a high build depth finish look.

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