Looking for some help and suggestions. I am trying to finish my rods and am having a problem with the high build Flex-coat as it is setting up before I can get a rod finished. I am doing 7' saltwater rods. I am heating up the two parts prior to mixing and applying as fast as I can. Before I get to the end of the rod, the epoxy becomes stringy coming off the brush. What am I doing wrong?

The time it is taking you to apply is exceeding the pot life of the mix. Heating the high build prior to mixing accelerates the "kick" time. Either reduce / eliminate the heat, mix in two batches, or work faster.
Another option would be testing other brands of high build to see if you could find a pot life more suitable to your application method.

I'm still a novice but it sounds to me that it was the "heating" part that made it set up so quickly. Don't heat it. Most guys just keep the bottles in their pockets while they're are getting ready to mix and finish. I learned one lesson quickly, if the finish is stringy or seems to be hanging to your brush or whatever tool you use to apply it, you're done. Get rid of that batch and mix another. Plus, It won't level the correctly. I used to get hot, hot tap water in a bowl, set a shot glass in the hot water, and then mix my finish in the hot shot glass. Well, it was too hot and got thick very quickly. When I finally realized what I was doing I just put it in my pocket for about 15 minutes, mixed it, and found I could almost do an entire rod. If you get the faintest feeling it's setting up on you while you're putting it on, stop and mix a new batch.

There are professionals here that will help you, and correct me if I'm wrong. Please listen to these people. I hope I've been of some help.

Bruce

Robert,
High build flex coat works very well.

Two things you are doing wrong.
1. heating the mix before applying.
2. taking too long to apply the finish.


When applying finish, I do the following.
Take equal amounts of part a and part b - and mix for exactly 120 seconds. Have everything ready to go, so that as soon as 120 seconds pass, finish application begins.

I use my power wrapper to apply finish at speeds up to 200 rpm.
I generally take about 10-15 seconds to apply finish initially to butt wraps and to each guide.

Note: this first application is just to get sufficient finish on to completely fill the thread and wraps. I don't worry about level or anything else at this point. I just want to be sure that there is sufficient finish to get coverage on all wraps.

By the time that I get to the end of a long rod, the finish is just starting to get slightly thick.

Then, I go back to the beginning and go over each wrap, using a heat gun as necessary to let the finish flow and level. This will be about another 10 seconds on each wrap.

Again, I work from the longest butt wrap to the tip of the rod. During this time I am letting the rod turn continuously at about 15 rpm or so.

When, I get to the end of the rod, I will slow the rod down to my normal drying speed of about 10 rpm and give the rod one more once over under very bright light and magnification to be sure that the finish is perfect on all wraps and level and clean edges.

I suppose that the total time spent on the rod from start to finish is in the area of about 5 minutes.

If I am doing a single rod, I will just leave the rod on the power wrapper at my nominal 10 rpm for an overnight dry.

But, if I am in batch mode, I momentarily stop my power wrapper, remove the rod, and transfer it to my drum dryer. Fasten it to my drum dryer, and then turn the drum dryer back on at about 10 rpm.

Then, on to the next rod.

But, the key is time - from the time that I start mixing a batch of finish, until the rod has been transferred to the drum dryer, the total time is generally about 10 minutes. This includes mixing and transfer time. Also, about 90% of the time, with high build finish, only one coat of finish is necessary.

I take the rod off the dryer the next day and ship the rod.

Be safe
Roger

p.s.
If you do find that you finish on a long rod sets up too quickly, then don't try to finish a rod in one batch. Mix up a smaller batch and apply finish to the butt wrap and the first big guide and make sure that the finish is perfect on these two areas.

Then, mix up another batch and apply finish to the rest of the guides.

I expect that if you work with two batches, you will be fine.

As you get more experience, you will be able to work faster. But, the finish should be at about room temperature of 70 degrees. At 70 degrees, the finish has nice flow and a pot life of about 5 minutes. If you heat the finish to 80 degrees, the pot life is down to about 3 minutes.

Until your application skills get faster, you might consider a different finish with a longer working time. Threadmaster regular has a longer working time than Flex Coat, and the lite formula even more so.

The other suggestions above though still hold well. You would be better served to continue to practice application a little quicker. The extra time you may be spending working on a wrap finish probably isn't doing you any favors. Put the finish on and let it level. Also, don't heat it up before hand.

Terry

Until your application skills get faster, you might consider a different finish with a longer working time. Threadmaster regular has a longer working time than Flex Coat, and the lite formula even more so.

The other suggestions above though still hold well. You would be better served to continue to practice application a little quicker. The extra time you may be spending working on a wrap finish probably isn't doing you any favors. Put the finish on and let it level. Also, don't heat it up before hand.

Terry

Robert,
Another issue you might be having is leaving it in the container you mixed it in. try pouring it out on some aluminum foil to spread it out, as it remains in a closed container it naturally starts to heat up and causes it to cure faster. Please try our Threadmaster finish but working on your technique will also help you out.
Thanks
Scott Parsons

Scott Parsons
919-900-8998
[www.roddancer.com]
[www.fishhawkthreads.com]

Sorry, I guess I hi-jacked the thread. I apologize. It was inadvertent.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/09/2012 06:30PM by Bruce Tomaselli.

We really don't know how long it is taking Robert to apply his finish, therefore we can't say for sure that he needs to speed up. We know he is heating his finish. That part we can fix. Don't heat the finish.

robert

heating the finish makes the "set up" of the finish go faster - it speeds up the curing process. why are you heating? if it's cold where you are finishing a little heat to 1 part of the finish may be ok - if its 80 degrees don't warm up the finish. i put both bottles of my threadmaster in my shirt pocket for 30 minutes (or hold a bottle in each hand for 15 minutes) before mixing. i also power mix the finish using a steel ball in the cup. sometimes i also warm the steel ball by putting it in a pocket. i always pour the mixed finish onto a flat surface to release any bubbles and slow the curing process by allowing the finish to cool a little.

rog

robert

you can also mix a batch of finish - do the guides, and then mix another batch and do the butt wrap. if i'm doing a 7 or 7 1/2 ft rod i always use 2 separate batches.

rog

Thread master lite has a very long pot life. Used to use flex coat, set up to fast for my liking. Give it a try, I think you will like it. I warm mine up for a few minutes in hot water before mixing as I think it helps eliminate air bubbles.

Hi mate,

Another trick is to pour the mixed epoxy into the base of a soda can turned upside down it dissperses the heat a little and may give you that extra time. I use empty dry cans.

Cheers

Mark Newcombe
Old Bar NSW
Australia
markscustomfishing.com
American Tackle Pro-Staff

Hi,
I created a furor here a couple of years ago by my method. I will do it again now at great risk to myself. :-))

My method and I have been doing it for many years with different finishes. Currently Threadmaster Hi build.

Mix a total of 5-6 cc's of finish for 3-4 min.
I have prepared 3 small "trays" of aluminum foil.

I pour a nickle sized amount in one tray and a quarter size in the other two trays. I leave some in the mixing cup.
So now I have 4 batches of finish.
The mixing cup and the two quarter size batches go in the freezer compartment of my refrigerator.

The nickle size batch is used first to fill the guide tunnels.

When ready to do the guide wraps I take one tray from the freezer and do NOT heat it. It takes about 2-3 min. to be ready.

I continue that way until the rod is finished. If I am interupted I sometimes put the tray that I am using back in the freezer to slow/stop the curing reaction. Put the brus in the freezer also so you can keep using it.

It takes me longer to do wraps because I have zero overlap of finish onto the blank. I use a very thin knitting needle or embossing tool to apply finish to the edges of my wrap. A small brush in-between.

I have used the mixed finish from the freezer for up to two days.

Don't be afraid to try - doesn't adversly affect the finish in any way.
Herb

Do not heat
If your place is hot Cool it It helps to make the set time longer

use a light finish

I find that Flex Coat The new UV mix takes longer to set then TM other then what was said ???

Since you are using high build you can put about 8 - DROPS - of mid-temp lacquer thinner into a CC of finish it thins it
Have been doing this for years and never had problems

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/10/2012 08:45AM by bill boettcher.

Make an aluminum foil "pan" and pour the mixed finish in it. The aluminum will dissipate the heat, extending the pot life. I use to use Flex coat high Build, and did his every time.

Herb,
I appreciate your care in finish application.
But, I wonder if it is a good idea to have no finish overlap onto the blank.

I rather take the tack, that I want about 1/16 to 1/8th inch finish overlap onto the blank to be 100% sure that you get a complete 100% seal of the thread wraps to the blank.

Take care
Roger

roger is correct

have the finish over lap onto the blank -- Too be sure the thread is sealed so no water gets Under It
Plus seal around the feet Completely

Bill - willierods.com

Mark, good idea to use pop cans. I use small foil pans now but I am going to try your can trick.

X10 Bob,
I had never thought about using the bottom of pop cans. Plenty around, so nice place for the finish to rest.

Roger